Ruger Blackhawk Holster

[BanjoMan]

Just finished this holster for a Ruger .357 Magnum Blackhawk. This is only the second western style holster I've attempted, so comments and suggestions are welcome. This holster is made from 9/10 oz. veg tan leather, unlined. It is hand stitched and burnished. Finish consists of Fiebing's dark brown spirit dye, neatsfoot oil, clear-lac, resolene, and a coat of neutral shoe polish. Please let me know what you think!

[joshk]

great job! I really like the white stitching on brown finish....

[katsass]

Just finished this holster for a Ruger .357 Magnum Blackhawk. This is only the second western style holster I've attempted, so comments and suggestions are welcome. This holster is made from 9/10 oz. veg tan leather, unlined. It is hand stitched and burnished. Finish consists of Fiebing's dark brown spirit dye, neatsfoot oil, clear-lac, resolene, and a coat of neutral shoe polish. Please let me know what you think!

BanjoMan, from the old grump; I like it, you done good. The only thing I would do differently is to keep the muzzle end open. Too much crud accumulates down there over the years and NOBODY ever cleans them out --- but that's just my personal preference. Mike

[Go2Tex]

Yeah, ditto all the above. Very nice holster. If you run an edger down the flesh side and maybe rub it down, or temper it, that will take care of those fuzzies, at least for a while.

[Trav]

Nice looking work sir

[BanjoMan]

Thanks for the compliments! I know the flesh side could have used more attention, but I'm still in the learning process as far as that goes. I did edge both sides prior to assembly, but by the time it was finished, the "fuzzies" were back. I also agree that it should be open on the end and I will do that on the next one. I had to make this pattern myself, but I used Al Stohlman's pattern for a Ruger Single Six as a guideline. I also think that I may stay away from the clear-lac next time. It seems like it provides a good protective finish, but the results are more glossy/plastic looking than I prefer. Has anyone had any experience with tan-kote or bag-kote? I wonder how it would work out if I used dye, neatsfoot oil, bag-kote, followed by a coat of neutral shoe polish?

[Eaglestroker]

Love the color, very nice looking rig.

I tried Tan-Kote once. It was like I had turned my dye on the holster liquid again - never again.

[Denster]

Thanks for the compliments! I know the flesh side could have used more attention, but I'm still in the learning process as far as that goes. I did edge both sides prior to assembly, but by the time it was finished, the "fuzzies" were back. I also agree that it should be open on the end and I will do that on the next one. I had to make this pattern myself, but I used Al Stohlman's pattern for a Ruger Single Six as a guideline. I also think that I may stay away from the clear-lac next time. It seems like it provides a good protective finish, but the results are more glossy/plastic looking than I prefer. Has anyone had any experience with tan-kote or bag-kote? I wonder how it would work out if I used dye, neatsfoot oil, bag-kote, followed by a coat of neutral shoe polish?

Either bag kote or tan kote will work and give you a satiny finish. Looks really nice on western gear.

[Haystacker]

I think your holster looks great. This holster looks very professional. Skidmore's Leather Cream works great as a finish for these types of holsters.

[Abram]

That is a beautiful holster.

Edited January 27, 2012 by Abram

[katsass]

Thanks for the compliments! I know the flesh side could have used more attention, but I'm still in the learning process as far as that goes. I did edge both sides prior to assembly, but by the time it was finished, the "fuzzies" were back. I also agree that it should be open on the end and I will do that on the next one. I had to make this pattern myself, but I used Al Stohlman's pattern for a Ruger Single Six as a guideline. I also think that I may stay away from the clear-lac next time. It seems like it provides a good protective finish, but the results are more glossy/plastic looking than I prefer. Has anyone had any experience with tan-kote or bag-kote? I wonder how it would work out if I used dye, neatsfoot oil, bag-kote, followed by a coat of neutral shoe polish?

Well BanjoMan, believe it or don't, but I have used a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glow' and water (yes,the floor stuff) for a finish for almost 50 years now. It's basically the same as Super Sheen and Neat Sheen --- an acrylic finish. AND, it's a pot-load cheaper than either of those. It's easy to apply, doesn't seem to streak or blotch and after a final polish with Kiwi neutral shoe wax, ends up with a mellow, non-plastic sheen. Here's a pic of two matching holsters (or as close as I can get to matching) --- one finished and one ready for finishing. Mike

P. S. I use an airbrush to apply --- just mist it on, but others have used sponge paint brushes or a lint free cloth with no problems. I mist on a coat, allow to dry for 10 minutes or so and hit it one more time. It's dry in half an hour or so. Then a very thin coat of the Kiwi, buffed out.

Edited January 27, 2012 by katsass

[mattsh]

Looks good. I like the color.

[volpert]

very nice, clean and love the color