Iron Pounder Report post Posted January 27, 2012 I need a machine that can handle wallets and guitar straps. I have been using a hand crank Singer 66 that worked ok for that but it was on loan and is going back to it's owner. The guitar straps are 4-5oz with a 2oz decorative layer stitched on top (tribal pattern, flames, band name...) then the top assembly stitched onto a liner. Wallets 4-5oz and I have been using goat to make the inside with a cloth liner. I can get a Singer 16-188 (old walking foot) machine as well but seems that a lot of boot makers like using the 31-15. I think this machine will end up with 69 thread most of the time but may go as high as 138 at times. I really would like as much input as I can get. I might be purchasing this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Techsew Ron Report post Posted January 28, 2012 You'd be better off going with the walking foot machine for sewing guitar straps and wallets. Much better if you're working with multiple layers or thicker leather somewhere down the line. Get yourself a left toe foot and roller guide to sew your stitches right along the edge of the strap. Wizcrafts sews guitar straps with a flatbed walking foot machine, he could probably offer some extra insight on the matter. Good luck! Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted January 28, 2012 What do some many of these shops use the 31-15 for? Every shop I've been in has one it seems. I didn't know if the walking foot machine could make super tight turns like following the edge of flames. Do the shops I see that have the 31-15 just use the machine in a different way and if so how do they use it differently? We have had a heck of a time getting the walking foot machine to not track the leather up. I thought about filling the grooves up on the foot and then putting a nice cross hatch on it., will that help? The 31 just took off and worked with anything 138 and smaller thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted January 28, 2012 The issue is probably with the type of walking foot machine being used. Machines like the TuffSew, Sailrite, etc., table top or portable models are not designed nor set up for leather. They are canvas, sail, and tarp machines. A good machine, like the 441 clones, when set up for leather doesn't have teeth on the feet. Tracking in the leather is caused by too much pressure on the feet...or teeth. A properly adjusted walking foot (or unison feed) machine can be used to sew just about any design. As far as intricate patterns....look up some of Kevin King's wallets. All of his work is sewn on a Juki walking foot (the model escapes me at the moment) and he has no problem with very intricate multi-layered patterns. AFAIK, the 31s are a favorite of boot makers, used for the fancy stitching on the uppers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 28, 2012 Always try to use smooth presser feet on a walking foot machine, when sewing any leather that remembers impressions. The triple (compound) feed walking foot machines are the best for sewing multiple layers up to 3/8 inch. Virtually every industrial walking foot machine is capable of tensioning #138 thread, top and bottom. Most of today's walking foot machines use the same presser feet as the original Singer 111w155. There are literally dozens of different foot sets available for these machines. Most use system 135x16 leather point, or 135x17 round point needles. These needles are available from about #12 up to #25. Roller foot machines leave a roller track, the depth of which is related to the top spring pressure. The pressure exerted on the roller has to hold down the leather as the needle ascends to form each stitch. The roller is able to ride very close to the left side of the needle. In fact, you can adjust the distance from direct contact, to 1/16 inch or farther away. Small rollers are able to sew more intricate designs onto boot uppers. Most of these machines are used on shoe and boot upper leather, with a typical thickness of 2 to 4 ounces. Most of the fancy stitching on Cowboy boots is done on a roller foot machine, using #33 or #46 bonded nylon thread and a #9 or #10 needle. The stitch density is usually 20 to the inch. A Singer 31-15 is a garment machine. It can be used to sew leather garments if one uses either a Teflon or roller foot. The springs are made with light thread in mind. You will have to swap out the main tension spring to use #138 thread. A heavier presser bar spring may also be needed, to hold down leather and big thread, sewn with a #22 or 23 needle. This combination places a lot of stress on the take-up mechanism of the machine. The feed dog and plate also needs to be replaced with a heavy tooth set, to properly feed leather. I use this machine to sew hems onto cloth goods and pants. I use a National walking foot machine for guitar straps, flat belts, denim cuffs, leather zipper replacement, vinyl sewing and most jobs that benefit from the triple feed system. It is similar to an older Consew 206 series machine. It has a large M style bobbin, a large push down reverse lever, a round dial for stitch length. I have equipped it with a SewPro 500 GR servo motor, which gives total speed control from 0 to 1500 RPM. I use thread sizes 69, 92 and 138 with that machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted January 28, 2012 The issue is probably with the type of walking foot machine being used. Machines like the TuffSew, Sailrite, etc., table top or portable models are not designed nor set up for leather. They are canvas, sail, and tarp machines. A good machine, like the 441 clones, when set up for leather doesn't have teeth on the feet. Tracking in the leather is caused by too much pressure on the feet...or teeth. A properly adjusted walking foot (or unison feed) machine can be used to sew just about any design. As far as intricate patterns....look up some of Kevin King's wallets. All of his work is sewn on a Juki walking foot (the model escapes me at the moment) and he has no problem with very intricate multi-layered patterns. AFAIK, the 31s are a favorite of boot makers, used for the fancy stitching on the uppers. I beleive most bootmakers that I know use a 31-15 to sew the stitch patterns on boot tops and use it with a wheel instead of a pressor foot. I have a 31-20 that I use to stitch rodeo chaps with and I beleive it is easier to use and does a prettier job than my walking foot sewing machines and I have 3 of them. Just my 2 cents worth. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted January 28, 2012 The issue is probably with the type of walking foot machine being used. Machines like the TuffSew, Sailrite, etc., table top or portable models are not designed nor set up for leather. They are canvas, sail, and tarp machines. A good machine, like the 441 clones, when set up for leather doesn't have teeth on the feet. Tracking in the leather is caused by too much pressure on the feet...or teeth. A properly adjusted walking foot (or unison feed) machine can be used to sew just about any design. As far as intricate patterns....look up some of Kevin King's wallets. All of his work is sewn on a Juki walking foot (the model escapes me at the moment) and he has no problem with very intricate multi-layered patterns. AFAIK, the 31s are a favorite of boot makers, used for the fancy stitching on the uppers. I looked up Kevin and his stuff is hot. It doesn't look like he is doing leather anymore though. His site is mostly blank and no forum activity in a long time from what I could find. Something I found said he lives in Joplin,MO. Anyone know that for sure? If so I'm not far. The walking foot we tried was an old Singer 16-188. I would call it heavy duty/commercial but the design doesn't look as well made as say a Singer 111w155 that I tried (should have bought that one). I don't know if I could buy a Juki or not. I don't think I could if I had the choice of a US company as well. I'm sure they make great machines I just support the US whenever possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted January 28, 2012 The 16-188 has a top feed with teeth on the bottom of the feet this along with the teeth that the feed dogs have make it a poor choice for a leather machine,the 111w style of machine will work much better since it has a needle feed,the feed dogs can be smoothed down if needed & it'll still make even stitches. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted January 28, 2012 The 16-188 has a top feed with teeth on the bottom of the feet this along with the teeth that the feed dogs have make it a poor choice for a leather machine,the 111w style of machine will work much better since it has a needle feed,the feed dogs can be smoothed down if needed & it'll still make even stitches. Bob Bob, you are right on the money with what I found to be the case using the 16-188. I didn't care for the design of the machine altogether but all I would hear is a walking foot machine is what I needed. I passed up a nice 111w cheap (100.00) not long ago and I've been kicking myself since. The 31 we used uses feed dogs with teeth to move the material along but we didn't have a bit of trouble with it marking the leather or feeding problems. We only had three layers when we used the 31 so maybe more would be a problem but I won't be going more than that anyway. Do you stock parts for the 31? It seems to still be a popular machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted January 28, 2012 Yes,we have alot of parts for the 31-15 like roller feet,feed dogs,teflon flat feet that would work great on leather & anything else you might need. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) I've got a really nice 111W155 that I up-graded with an 11 inch hand wheel to slow it down a touch. I have a new post here with questions about trading it, the cost that is, for a Campbell. The Singers are really nice machines. Mine might come up for sale in the next week, with extra needles, ETC. Probably gonna want ...say $500. Complete with xtras. Kevin Edited January 30, 2012 by KAYAK45 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted January 31, 2012 Bob Does the roller foot set up for a 31 come with everything I need to change over? Can you get by with just the roller foot or do I need to change the feed dogs and plate as well? How much do the parts run? What does the servo motor for it run? If you can't post here just send me a pm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busted Report post Posted January 31, 2012 I need a machine that can handle wallets and guitar straps. I have been using a hand crank Singer 66 that worked ok for that but it was on loan and is going back to it's owner. The guitar straps are 4-5oz with a 2oz decorative layer stitched on top (tribal pattern, flames, band name...) then the top assembly stitched onto a liner. Wallets 4-5oz and I have been using goat to make the inside with a cloth liner. I can get a Singer 16-188 (old walking foot) machine as well but seems that a lot of boot makers like using the 31-15. I think this machine will end up with 69 thread most of the time but may go as high as 138 at times. I really would like as much input as I can get. I might be purchasing this weekend. This might be of interest to you. Craigslist Topeka, Kansas sale-8en5d-2821274943@craigslist.org 2 needle, Needle feed Lockstitch, machine with an automatic thread trimmer. Model # LH-3128, LH-3128-7. Works! Instruction Manual included. One corner of the cart is broken, but nothing wrong with machine itself. $900.00 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
