Sealing Leather After Dyeing?

[hectron]

hi all, ive start my first leather projects and theyre going pretty well. my question is, im using eco flo leather dyes, how do i "seal" the dyes in after theyre applied? i have a bottle of "eco flow super shene leather finish" my friend gave but im not 100% if this is a sealant of just a gloss finish. is there anything else, if this isnt acceptable as a finish, that i can use to finish my leather to give a professional look? what is recommended to "buff" my leather after sealing? i get all my supplys from a tandy leather store by the way, since i prefer goin to stores v.s. online ordering.

one last question, do you apply gum tragacanth before or after sealing your leather to round the edges ? im asking because i noticed a great deal of dye, enough to reveal the natural color of the leather, was removed after i dyed the leather then applied gum tragacanth. thanks in advanced all :D !

[radar67]

Dump the Super Sheen down the drain and get a bottle of Acrylic Resolene. Mix it 50/50 with water. For the edges, after I dye the project, I use a canvas cloth or a burnishing wheel (Tandy) to slick the edges. I don't use the Gum or anything other that the damp dye or water. After the dye dries for 24 hours, I buff all surfaces until they have a sheen to them, then I apply the resolene and let dry 24 hours and buff. I use a piece of scrap sheeps wool for all my buffing.

[hectron]

so the super shene is crap? is it decently reliable at least because i already applied 2 coats of it to my projects got me a little worried now

[Dwight]

hectron, . . . when in doubt, . . . refer to Radar's message.

He has the subject well covered. Super sheen is sort of the bottom rung on the finishing ladder. Resolene takes you much further up, . . . gives you UV protection, . . . is almost water proof, . . . leaves a beautiful shine, . . . is easy to work with.

It is not a "be all" or "do all" finish, . . . but it is hard to beat for holsters, belts, some purses, bags, boxes, knife sheaths, seats, etc.

Mayy God bless,

Dwight

[Bob Blea]

hectron, . . . when in doubt, . . . refer to Radar's message.

He has the subject well covered. Super sheen is sort of the bottom rung on the finishing ladder. Resolene takes you much further up, . . . gives you UV protection, . . . is almost water proof, . . . leaves a beautiful shine, . . . is easy to work with.

It is not a "be all" or "do all" finish, . . . but it is hard to beat for holsters, belts, some purses, bags, boxes, knife sheaths, seats, etc.

Mayy God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, is there something that doesn't leave all the shine? I make carved notepads and other small items that are handled all the time but aren't going to need to be weather proof. I want to seal them well but find when I use acrylic based seals the items end up shiny. I would like to keep the more natural look of the leather.

Thanks in advance,

Bob

[Iron Pounder]

Dump the Super Sheen down the drain and get a bottle of Acrylic Resolene. Mix it 50/50 with water. For the edges, after I dye the project, I use a canvas cloth or a burnishing wheel (Tandy) to slick the edges. I don't use the Gum or anything other that the damp dye or water. After the dye dries for 24 hours, I buff all surfaces until they have a sheen to them, then I apply the resolene and let dry 24 hours and buff. I use a piece of scrap sheeps wool for all my buffing.

I'm probably just doing something wrong but I never get anything but a finish that shines like it is plastic. Then with much flexing it wants to crack into tiny spider webs. I use Montana pitch blend and it leaves the leather looking like leather instead of looking like a plastic toy, it doesn't crack, has a pine smell like most everyone seems to be ok with.

Like I said though I probably just haven't been doing something right with it as I'm self taught and just learn from trial and error. I've tried airbrushing it on very thin and that does reduce it's cracking with very thin application but still get a plastic look.

[Dwight]

Bob, . . . you might try a product called Bag Kote, . . . another Feibings product.

It produces a much softer looking and feeling product without all the sheen.

I use both Resolene and Bag Kote, . . . resolene 50/50 with water, . . . bag kote is 60/40, bag kote to water.

I brush both on with a bristle brush, . . . that 1 inch wide, 49 cent, el cheapo, pure bristle brush, . . . then wash the brush out with soap and water. I lather it on fairly good, . . . making sure that each and every square inch is covered, . . . including the edges, . . . brush it , brush it, brush it, . . . back and forth, . . . up and down, . . . oblique left/down then right/down, . . . and keep brushing until all the bubbles are pretty well brushed out, . . . I then hit it VERY CAREFULLY with my heat gun to dry up any streaks that might try to form, . . .

If I want a high gloss finish, . . . using this priocess, . . . I usually have to do multiple coats.

I personally shy away from Bag Kote only because the ammonia (or something in it) aggravates my breathing, . . . but it is a good product.

With either one, . . . I then hang em up for 24 hours before I get serious about handling them.

May God bless,

Dwight

[radar67]

Iron Pounder, it sounds like the product may be going on too thick. I tried resolene straight from the bottle and it appeared thick to me. I started mixing with water and use the cheap bristle brush Dwight mentioned on most of my projects. I have airbrushed the resolene on and got good results. I had a leather arm bracer autographed by a band I like and sprayed over the Sharpie signatures to protect them.

Hectron, I started out with Satin Sheen and was very disappointed with it when I tried to use it as a block for antiquing. The project came out okay, but much darker than I had planned. As was stated earlier, I think the "Sheen" products are good "starters". However, there are many other finishing products on the market that are much better. Resolene is the product I am comfortable using and it does what I want it to do for end results i am trying for.

There are many people who bad mouth do not recommend the ECO Flo products. I use the dyes, highlighters, cova colors, and antiques and am pleased with them. I have used the "all in one" while helping a friend with a class and was not impressed with them, neither was my friend, a 17 year leather veteran. I think experimenting with the different products to find what fits your needs is the best practice. I still have a few products I want to try eventually, but for now the resolene and Eco Flo dyes work for me.

A thought on the "plastic" look. I think I may try the resolene mixed 25/75 with water to see if I can produce a satin finish with resolene.

Edited March 2, 2012 by radar67

[Iron Pounder]

I think I still have a bottle left so I may try it again. I want to say I mixed it 50/50 but don't remember for sure. I think most would only use Montana pitch blend once they tried it. No I don't have any stock in the company I just have had super good luck with it working right out of the jar and have bought soo many products for leather that are junk so this one stands out.

[richard55]

hi well i heard that mop and glo was good do i tryd it and belive it or not it work great, it seal it up and after buffing it , it come out qhit a nice sean to it

i go 50/50 ,wather and mop and glo

it cheap and it work