Leather Consistency And Dye

[DoubleBarP]

Well I've been lurking a long time and reading mostly.Have been trying to come up with a pattern I'm satisfied with that provides speed, security, durability and concealability... The attached is the result. Still not satisfied with the holster.

Tried dark brown dye. Consistency of leather seems to bea problem with dyeing the leather. Guess that's why black is so popular....

Figure if I can get a glock to look ok that them I can tackle anything….

Your observations?

Edited March 2, 2012 by DoubleBarP

[Sixer]

What type of dye are you using and how are you applying it?

[DoubleBarP]

What type of dye are you using and how are you applying it?

Two coats of Fibings with a dober....

[Sixer]

Two coats of Fibings with a dober....

Is it the Fiebing's "Professional Oil" dye or just the regular leather dye?

The reason I ask... I use the Fiebing's Pro Oil dye with a foam brush... ususally two coats... and usually get pretty uniform results.

Then again, it could be the leather...

[steelhawk]

I've started using cotton balls tied up in of a piece of cotton cloth to apply my brown oil dye. It works better than daubers. I use a foam brush for the black dye. Eventually I will get an airbrush, but that will have to wait.

I just finished this one the other day.

Edited March 3, 2012 by steelhawk

[DoubleBarP]

Is it the Fiebing's "Professional Oil" dye or just the regular leather dye?

The reason I ask... I use the Fiebing's Pro Oil dye with a foam brush... ususally two coats... and usually get pretty uniform results.

Then again, it could be the leather...

Cant say for sure if it Pro or not. I do have a foam brush and I think I have an air brush outfit in the shed. Small compressor as well. Going to give that a try on the next one (in black)...

Thanks

=P

[IngleGunLeather]

I like airbrushing. Check Harbor Freight for a copmplete kit under $100.

Edited March 3, 2012 by CountryTrash

[DoubleBarP]

Asked my wife what she thought of the holster and the way it colored. She "likes" it and was wondering how I did it. She seems to think some of her social circle who like to shoot will like the holster / belt combo. She also liked the "gold" thread (white nylon that was died with holster). Any way I did a two more holsters and applied the dye with an air brush this time. Used half as much dye and seems to me a more even coat but then again its black this time. Thanks for the pointers...

=P

[malabar]

I've found the finishing process to be the most challenging part of leatherwork. I've tried dipping, airbrushing and brushing with varying results. I've started using drum-dyed leather for my black holsters.

First, start with good quality leather that has an even consistency, so that it absorbs the dye evenly. Dye the leather at the start of the process. Airbrushing gives great results, but the leather is only coated on the surface, so it scratches easily. A light coat of neatsfoot oil helps make for more even absorbency, but can change the color. I dip when possible, and use foam brushes when it's not possible. I use Fiebings alcohol-based dyes, and cut them 50% with denatured alcohol. Building up in light coats enables me to blend the dye strokes more evenly.

The cotton-wrapped-in-fabric dauber is an old woodworker's technique. Never tried it on leather, but I mean to.

tk

[DoubleBarP]

I've found the finishing process to be the most challenging part of leatherwork. I've tried dipping, airbrushing and brushing with varying results. I've started using drum-dyed leather for my black holsters.

First, start with good quality leather that has an even consistency, so that it absorbs the dye evenly. Dye the leather at the start of the process. Airbrushing gives great results, but the leather is only coated on the surface, so it scratches easily. A light coat of neatsfoot oil helps make for more even absorbency, but can change the color. I dip when possible, and use foam brushes when it's not possible. I use Fiebings alcohol-based dyes, and cut them 50% with denatured alcohol. Building up in light coats enables me to blend the dye strokes more evenly.

The cotton-wrapped-in-fabric dauber is an old woodworker's technique. Never tried it on leather, but I mean to.

tk

Thanks for the tip

=P

[Colt Hammerless]

I put one to two coats on with sheeps wool, both on the grain and flesh side. This gives good penetration of the dye and is fairly even. After it has dried, I go over it with the airbrush (only on the grain side) to really even it out. Works nicely. I'm still experimenting with colors, so once I standardize on what colors I want to offer, I'll buy enough to just dip dye. If you're going to do a large amount of black projects, do what Malabar does, and buy it drum dyed. I know Wickett and Craig only charges 15 cents a square foot for drum dyed. I doubt you can even dye it yourself that cheap. They have other colors too.

Colt Hammerless

[Shooter McGavin]

I really like when the browns take on a marbled effect.

I even offer a color that is marbled intentionally

[DoubleBarP]

Thanks for the information. I like the marbled look....

=P

[Dwight]

I have found that if I want a brown to be consistent, . . . even, . . . etc, . . . the ONLY way for me is to do the dye job first.

Pour the dye into the 11 x 14 baking pan, . . . drop in the leather, . . . turn it over, . . . pull it out, . . . lay it flesh side down on newspaper for about a half hour, . . . then grab a corner with a clothes pin on a string over my wood stove or a register (hang in the window for sunlight in the summer), . . . let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Lou Alessi told me before he passed on that he always dyed his holsters before he did any of the forming stuff, . . . and it was always dip dyed. I like dip dyeing better than anything else because you get a deep color, . . . tried the air brush and found out it is only a light surface color, . . . not what I personally wanted. YMMV.

May God bless,

Dwight