Wallet Construction Tutorial 2012

[Kevin King]

I have changed up a few things and honed my skills since my last wallet tutorial, so I thought i'd make a new one.

This is going to be a mid-size long wallet. I have already done the custom work on the outside of the wallet, so this

is for the construction only.

Start with the pieces cut out.

Seam tape on pockets and fold over.

I mark the placement of the tops of the pockets with a silver sharpie.

Then sew starting with the top pocket.

Sew the binding leather face down over edge of pockets. It's important to do opposite sides so you'll have a left and a right pocket.

[Kevin King]

They should look like this.

Seam tape and fold over.

Then more seam tape and fold around to back of pockets.

Stitch along edge to secure.

Then glue.

Pockets ready to go.

Glue in lining and trim.

[Kevin King]

Sew pockets on wallet.

Time to bind it. I use a two inch wide piece of garment cowhide.

Sew along the edges.

Trim corners.

Seam tape and fold over.

Sew along outer edge.

[Kevin King]

It should look like this.

Trim. I can use what I trimmed away for another wallet.

And the finished product.

Thanks for looking, and I hope this helps.

[particle]

Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

[dragoncut]

Kevin thanks for the update on this tutorial. It is really nice of you to post this for the rest of us to use. For trimming the binding these might work pretty good.

http://www.allstitch...issors-1492.cfm

Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

[Kevin King]

Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

I use an exacto knife.

Kevin thanks for the update on this tutorial. It is really nice of you to post this for the rest of us to use. For trimming the binding these might work pretty good.

http://www.allstitch...issors-1492.cfm

[Spinner]

I use an exacto knife.

And surgeon-like skills, freehand cutting binding that well takes some good control.

Kevin, you mentioned using garment weight cowhide for the edge binding...what weight are you using for the pockets, etc?

Do you skive the pocket fold over areas, etc? I didn't see that mentioned but figure with a light enough leather you wouldn't need to.

Last question, is that a presser foot you purchased or an OEM you customized?

Excellent tutorial and great looking wallet. I'm envious of your stitch control on the designs & overlay pieces.

Keep up the great work,

Chris

[Russ]

Kevin;

I have all of your tutorials and WIP posts bookmarked, and I refer to them constantly. THANK YOU for sharing with us.

Russ

[Iron Pounder]

Very nice Kevin! Grandma taught me that binding for the edges, she does it the same way. She didn't remember what it is called (she's almost 97yrs young,ha) does anyone know what this type of binding is called? I need to make a foot like you have, it is hard for me to see what is going on with the foot I have on it now. Kevin, how do you lay out the stitch lines? I have tried a few different ways (pounce wheel and bag, stabilo pen, painters tape with design hand drawn and on and on) but there has to be a better way.

[chancey77]

Great Wallet Kevin! You got some mad sewing skills! Respect!

[LNLeather]

Great Looking Wallet Kevin! Thanks so much for sharing your 'How To' with us!

[walletman]

hi kev great wallets

wot are you using for you linings

and were can i get some

i live the the uk

and can only get pasley pattan bandandas

your,s are just the best

many thanks walletman (bob)

[Highlands858]

Just saw this new tutorial. Where can I find the size "seam tape" used here?

Thanks,

Luke

[TwinOaks]

You can find the seam tape at most hobby stores, and occasionally in walmart. It is the double sided tape, not the 'iron-on' type.

[Werner Manuel Design]

Hi, very nicely done! What kind of leather is it you're using?

I'm making wallets out of veg tanned cow leather, but now i'm getting a lot of requests for wallets with coin pockets. Personally I think the wallet would become too thick if I made a coin pocket out of veg tan leather.

thanks!