Machine Sewing A Holster

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,

I have been hand making holsters for some time now. I recently decided to up my game with a sewing machine. I went big and bought a Cobra class 4.

I have no experience with machines at all so need to learn from the ground up. I will have many questions.

My first is as follows. when I hand stich I use a grove cutter to mark the location of my stich line. I put that line about 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the holster for all outside lines.

So with a machine how do I keep a nice uniform stich line that is 1/8 of an inch from the edge all the way around.

I noticed I have some space between the needle and the pressor foot. Do I keep the pressor foot off the dge and use this distance, or do I mark the line and then sew over that line?

thanks for any help given.

[particle]

Get yourself an adjustable creaser and you're good to go. You don't even need to dampen the leather - just lightly trace around the edges to make a noticeable mark on the surface.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8072-00.aspx

[KAYAK45]

Make your holsters the same as if you were doing them by hand.

Change the foot, to match your style. Grind it if necessary! Change from two feet to left foot only...., then try right foot only..... Grind you needle set until you can see clearly.

Try it all.

You are the craftsman, don't let the machine set your course. Change it, to fit your needs.

The machine only punches the holes and sets the stitch you want, it does not drive your craft. It only makes it easier, and faster by a moment, maaybe two!

Kevin

[Haystacker]

I use 3/16 and 1/4 inch stitch lines. The process I use allows for some sanding after sewing. I still have a lot of "meat" after i sand.

[Reaper]

WIll using the groover on the edges and up at the weapon itself help with keeping the bottom stitch looking uniform and clean so if doesn't look like it is pulling leather up and around the stitches?

[steelhawk]

For me, it helped to slow the machine down to speed #4 for holsters. Glue up some pieces of scrap leather with curves like a holster and practice sewing on them.

[Dwight]

I use a regular groover and a freehand groover, . . . just like I was going to hand sew the thing.

I use the grooves to show me where to put the stitches. Without the groove, . . . the stitches tend to weave left and right , . . . but with the groove, . . . it stays nice and straight (most of the time anyway).

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

For me, it helped to slow the machine down to speed #4 for holsters. Glue up some pieces of scrap leather with curves like a holster and practice sewing on them.

+1 on this. Practice, practice, practice. The more you work with the machine the better your results will be.

For stitching uniformly along edges some folks might find the roller material guide (included with your Cobra Class 4) to be handy. Set up only takes a minute. But you'll have to remove it before doing anything other than edges, so repeated set up may become an issue.

[Haystacker]

I use 3/16 and 1/4 inch stitch lines. The process I use allows for some sanding after sewing. I still have a lot of "meat" after i sand.

I reread your post and wanted to edit my reply. I mark my stitch lines with a groover. My stitch lines are set 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch from the holster edge. This keeps the presser foot on the leather. i have never tried to make my stitch lines so close to the edge of the holster.

[steelhawk]

Hays, doesn't your machine have more than one type of presser foot? The Cobra 4 has both a right and a left single presser foot as well as the traditional double foot. You can swap the single ones out without having to move the leather if you goof up and are about to run off the edge.

Edited March 11, 2012 by steelhawk