Machine Sewing A Holster

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,

I have been hand making holsters for some time now. I recently decided to up my game with a sewing machine. I went big and bought a Cobra class 4.

I have no experience with machines at all so need to learn from the ground up. I will have many questions.

My first is as follows. when I hand stich I use a grove cutter to mark the location of my stich line. I put that line about 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the holster for all outside lines.

So with a machine how do I keep a nice uniform stich line that is 1/8 of an inch from the edge all the way around.

I noticed I have some space between the needle and the pressor foot. Do I keep the pressor foot off the dge and use this distance, or do I mark the line and then sew over that line?

thanks for any help given.

[particle]

Get yourself an adjustable creaser and you're good to go. You don't even need to dampen the leather - just lightly trace around the edges to make a noticeable mark on the surface.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8072-00.aspx

[KAYAK45]

Make your holsters the same as if you were doing them by hand.

Change the foot, to match your style. Grind it if necessary! Change from two feet to left foot only...., then try right foot only..... Grind you needle set until you can see clearly.

Try it all.

You are the craftsman, don't let the machine set your course. Change it, to fit your needs.

The machine only punches the holes and sets the stitch you want, it does not drive your craft. It only makes it easier, and faster by a moment, maaybe two!

Kevin

[Haystacker]

I use 3/16 and 1/4 inch stitch lines. The process I use allows for some sanding after sewing. I still have a lot of "meat" after i sand.

[Reaper]

WIll using the groover on the edges and up at the weapon itself help with keeping the bottom stitch looking uniform and clean so if doesn't look like it is pulling leather up and around the stitches?

[steelhawk]

For me, it helped to slow the machine down to speed #4 for holsters. Glue up some pieces of scrap leather with curves like a holster and practice sewing on them.

[Dwight]

I use a regular groover and a freehand groover, . . . just like I was going to hand sew the thing.

I use the grooves to show me where to put the stitches. Without the groove, . . . the stitches tend to weave left and right , . . . but with the groove, . . . it stays nice and straight (most of the time anyway).

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

For me, it helped to slow the machine down to speed #4 for holsters. Glue up some pieces of scrap leather with curves like a holster and practice sewing on them.

+1 on this. Practice, practice, practice. The more you work with the machine the better your results will be.

For stitching uniformly along edges some folks might find the roller material guide (included with your Cobra Class 4) to be handy. Set up only takes a minute. But you'll have to remove it before doing anything other than edges, so repeated set up may become an issue.

[Haystacker]

I use 3/16 and 1/4 inch stitch lines. The process I use allows for some sanding after sewing. I still have a lot of "meat" after i sand.

I reread your post and wanted to edit my reply. I mark my stitch lines with a groover. My stitch lines are set 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch from the holster edge. This keeps the presser foot on the leather. i have never tried to make my stitch lines so close to the edge of the holster.

[steelhawk]

Hays, doesn't your machine have more than one type of presser foot? The Cobra 4 has both a right and a left single presser foot as well as the traditional double foot. You can swap the single ones out without having to move the leather if you goof up and are about to run off the edge.

Edited March 11, 2012 by steelhawk

[rccolt45]

Lobo,

I got the roller edge thing with my machine. I understand how to set it up but not how to use it. any info would be greately apperciated.

[particle]

I can't explain how to use the roller, as I've never used one, but I think they're pretty straight forward. Here is a couple videos from Wizcrafts he posted on YouTube. I stumbled across them a few days ago searching for something else. I have to assume you put slight pressure against the roller, and nothing more, but I'm sure others can provide more insight.

Regarding your 1/8" stitch line - if I were you, I'd go with 3/16". If you get too close, when you bevel your edges you will be cutting very close to the thread. Maybe this is okay, but the next step of dying your edges (if you dye them) could result in accidentally touching the thread with your dauber. If you're like me, this is usually enough to spoil the whole holster (I'll dye the whole thing black at that point and put it on my website as an in-stock item).

Edited March 15, 2012 by particle

[steelhawk]

The roller guide is really good for straight edges and long curves. It gave me trouble on sharp curves so I operate manually around them. Maybe with more practice I won't have to do that.

[Steven Kelley]

For holsters, I never use an edge guide. First, I sand the edges even and bevel the top edge. Then when I stitch, I just use the presser foot as a visual guide to gauge the distance I'm sewing from the edge. With a little practice, you can run the stitch line at whatever distance you want without needing an edge guide or marked line to guide you.

I made a belt recently and used the edge guide. It makes it much easier on long straight pieces. You just set the guide at the distance you want your stitching to be from the edge and stitch. Gently press the piece toward the edge guide as you go, so that your piece stays against it. It's really easy to use. I think the key here is to just cut some scrap leather and start sewing. Run through a couple of bobbins of thread just practicing, and you should be ready to tackle anything a holster can throw at you.

[TTcustom]

I just got mine too and I put a stitch line down with my groover to follow and keep me on a even keel. I will have to try the creaser. I have been using the left presser foot on everything so far as that was what was on the machine when I got it. it is going to take a lot more thread and a lot more scraps to get in the practice I need to be really good.

[rccolt45]

[Thanks guys all very helpful.

[frmntx]

Make your holsters the same as if you were doing them by hand.

I love the reply, couldn't have said it better my self. I still groove my holsters for a little bit if recessing. Can't do anything but make your thread last longer by resucing potential for abrasion. Especially if you make anything for LEOs or duty gear.

Change the foot, to match your style. Grind it if necessary! Change from two feet to left foot only...., then try right foot only..... Grind you needle set until you can see clearly.

Try it all.

You are the craftsman, don't let the machine set your course. Change it, to fit your needs.

The machine only punches the holes and sets the stitch you want, it does not drive your craft. It only makes it easier, and faster by a moment, maaybe two!

Kevin

[csmartin73]

Could someone in the group explain to me how to sew the mouth and toe of a holster and then sew the side with a machine. I understand I could sew the mouth and toe while the holster hasnt been rolled over to form but that would have to have some extra stiches at the start and end on the sew line...

Any help is appreciated

Chad

[Red Cent]

I Will take a shot at this. First a picture.

Reading your question this holster came to mind. All the stitches in black are done while flat. And I tie all of these loose ends. The white done when folded and glued with back stitching for security. Ya gotta know where to start and end the black stitches so you can continue with the white stitches.

[SteelcityK9Cop]

Best videos on running the 441 machines....