Mallets/mauls

[Sylvia]

A recent experience with a bag punch got me thinking about upgrading from my poly mallet from the Tandy Deluxe Kit to something better. During my research I find a lot of different sizes, and materials. I swear it's worse than trying to decide on a new pair of shoes!

So I wanted to ask everyone a couple questions.

What do you use the most, a maul or a mallet?

What weight is your maul/mallet and why did you choose that weight?

What material is your maul/mallet made from, and what do you feel are the advantages of this material?

If you were to buy another maul/mallet... would you get a heavier one or a lighter one? If so why?

I'm not looking for recommendations of from whom to buy. I've pretty much found the place I'll make my purchase... I just wanted a little more information on what YOU use and why.

Thanks for the insight.

Syl

Edited May 18, 2012 by Sylvia

[DoubleC]

C'mon guys chime in because I want to know too. A conversation here last night made me realize I was sadly lacking. Thanks, Cheryl

[Spinner]

I started with mallets like everyone else but switched to mauls once I had the opportunity to use a good one at a friend's shop. A maul is just a bit more versatile, you can swing it like a hammer or bounce it more traditionally in the side rap method where the maul weight does the work, not your arm. For tooling this is awesome. I have 2 currently with 2 more on the way. I started with a 16oz for an all around tooling maul and then added a 28oz for hole punching, light stamping and heavy backgrounding. I'm adding a 9oz and a 21oz to round out the set, the 9 will be for fine tooling and the 21 for heavier tooling the 28 is just too heavy for like basketweaving. Hope this helps.

Chris

P.S. - Aside from the 16oz Al Stohlman maul I have, the other three will all be Ed "The Bearman" mauls. Ed does great work and his maul head material is great stuff. My 28oz, even though it's used a LOT on a daily basis doesn't even look like I've used it more than an hour. Should last me years and years.

[DoubleC]

Thanks Spinner, but what is his maul heads made of? Cheryl

[Sylvia]

Thanks Spinner. Ok so from what I reading thus far, the poly material is more durable... and about 1.5 to 2lbs is a good all around weight.

[DoubleC]

God Syl did he say that? I need some sleep, a beer, or maybe a BLT, just not sure what's wrong......

[Sylvia]

I vote for a BLT, Beer and Sleep. lol

[DoubleC]

LOL, eating now, then sleep. Have beer but think I'll pass right now :-)

[K-Man]

I've had the opportunity to use a few different manufacturer's mauls - LF, Bearman, Barry King, and Elton Jooristy/Northern Tools. I will never use Bearman again - gave 3 of those away. The LF/Al Stohlman was okay for a temporary. I prefer the one's made by Barry King and Elton Jooristy. The EJ has a shorter handle in comparison to the BK.

I have a 16oz and 26oz for size(s). I use the 16oz for most tooling and use the 26oz for hole punching and for basketweave stamping.

Edited May 18, 2012 by K-Man

[Sylvia]

I've had the opportunity to use a few different manufacturer's mauls - LF, Bearman, Barry King, and Elton Jooristy/Northern Tools. I will never use Bearman again - gave 3 of those away. The LF was okay for a temporary. I prefer the one's made by Barry King and Elton Jooristy. The EJ has a shorter handle in comparison to the BK.

I have a 16oz and 26oz for size(s). I use the 16oz for most tooling and use the 26oz for hole punching and for basketweave stamping.

Thank you. Ok, so "LF" (is that leather factory?) Also I've noticed different colored poly materials... Do the colors indicate say softness or durability? I've seen white, yellow, baby poop yellow, brown and black.

Are or were any of your mallets rawhide? Any benefit to offset the durability problems?