Iron Pounder Report post Posted August 5, 2012 I have a wallet that I'm trying to do that the pockets will be very close to each other and I need to glue them to hold until I get it stitched. Trouble is I only have 3/16" of an inch and when I glue it up it closes the pocket too much. This is cow embossed to look like gator so it is not smooth. I've not used any tape before but wondering if a very strong sewing tape would work. Any advice would be great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted August 5, 2012 I have a wallet that I'm trying to do that the pockets will be very close to each other and I need to glue them to hold until I get it stitched. Trouble is I only have 3/16" of an inch and when I glue it up it closes the pocket too much. This is cow embossed to look like gator so it is not smooth. I've not used any tape before but wondering if a very strong sewing tape would work. Any advice would be great. put scotch tape along the edge to block the "un-glued" part. Use contact cemet on both pieces- dry and remove tape. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Pete, that's a great idea and I will try it right now but wondering if the glue will bleed over some when I push the two parts together. Maybe I just put too much glue on. I will try and put less on than I normally do and use the tape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Pete, that's a great idea and I will try it right now but wondering if the glue will bleed over some when I push the two parts together. Maybe I just put too much glue on. I will try and put less on than I normally do and use the tape. It won't bleed if you use contact cement and let it dry. Smear it on with your finger tip for such a narrow piece. That small a section and it should be dry in less than a minute. Check it to see if it is tacky or better yet, dry feeling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anacott Steel Report post Posted August 6, 2012 FWIW iron pounder I dip the non pointy end of a toothpick into glue and place a few spots to hold the pockets together before stitching. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted August 6, 2012 I use Q-tip type things that are made for applying make-up. One end is shaped like a Q-tip and the other is pointed. It is denser than a Q-tip and doesn't turn into mush immediately. I don't know about tape, I'm afraid it will take something off the leather or leave something on the leather, but people do seem to use it. You might try thinning your glue, something like that, I would use two coats of thin glue. Good luck, Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Grizzly Report post Posted March 31, 2013 Those of you who use DAP WeldWood, what do you thin it with? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stelmackr Report post Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) ... I've not used any tape before but wondering if a very strong sewing tape would work. Any advice would be great. I use this all the time: http://www.wawak.com...e-1-4-x-60-yds/ Got the idea from Wiz Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org Edited March 31, 2013 by stelmackr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted March 31, 2013 I regularly glue up very narrow areas. I use plumber's acid brushes purchased from Harbor Freight, . . . http://www.amazon.com/Harbor-Freight-Horsehair-Bristle-Brushes/dp/B006ZBD95Q I use straight Weldwood. Just take your time, . . . it'll work out. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cardinal leather Report post Posted April 1, 2013 I use cheap craft paint brushes for weldwood or laminate type glues. About a # 2 I cut the end square with my serrated scissors so it holds the bristles . this gives me a glue line about 1/8 - 3/16, as mentioned above take your time it will work out. don't throw the brush away. It will get hard when it drys, however it will turn soft again when you use it again. just flatten the tip and let it dry. Brush last a long time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
humperdingle Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Call me a skinflint, but I use tiny offcut pieces of veg tan leather as glue spreaders Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
circlet Report post Posted April 4, 2013 This is what I found works very well for wallet interiors. http://springfieldleather.com/25969/Tape%2CSeamstick-Basting%2C1-4%22/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesmith648 Report post Posted April 4, 2013 I go to the sewng store like JoAnn's and get the seam tape. It comes in different widths and will hold really well while you sew...........and won't ooze out on the edges. Got the hint from Kevin King who happens to make a LOT of wallets Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted April 4, 2013 I have successfully used masking tape and painters tape Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 4, 2013 If you want to use contact cement, thin it out a lot so it is easier to control. Place it in a very thin line (use Q-Tip if necessary), and wait till it dries. Put on another coat if not shiny when dry. Or cheat and use Seamstick tape, it works just fine. Get Seamstick at Rochford Supply, or ask Kevin, he may carry it (you'd be suprised what he has at Springfield). I find it hard (impossible for me) to get a zipper in straight without it. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Grizzly Report post Posted April 6, 2013 Can you thin contact cement with Xylene? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
