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Posted

Here are some tips that might help you sew gussets.

Use a double toe foot set. If the right was going to fall off, the left stays on. A 1/2 inch space should work fine.

Get an extra outer foot and grind down the outsides of the toes to about 1/16" or less width. This lets you get closer to the inside of the shaped gusset.

Get another right toe foot and grind it thin of the side. Get another inside foot and grind it down on the left side. This lets you sew very close to the left side of shaped cases and gussets. Align the feet so they almost touch on the right side of the inside foot. This reduces the track width required to keep them on the work.

Use a roller edge guide and press the work tightly against it as you encounter these sharp turns.

Use a 227 type machine to sew gussets, with #207 thread in the bobbin and on top (#24 needle). The bobbins won't hold much 207 thread, but you should be able to sew a couple of purse gussets per bobbin load. Use a narrow zipper foot set to get as close to the inside as possible. Ferg bought one just to sew gussets.

Wiz, since I haven't gotten my new machine yet, I am only guessing here, but; looking at what he is trying to do, makes me kinda think of a stirrup. Could he use a stirrup attachment and stitch from the front holding the work in tight to the roller guide?

Bob

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Posted (edited)

I think I will do some experimenting tonight with the ruined gusset and cut a blank to sew onto it. I will use the roller guide with a double foot. I need to figure this out so I can sew the gussets into these purses. I think I can make a new gusset with a 5/8" tab to see if that gives me extra wiggle room. I will also extend the new gusset to possibly 3". Maybe the purses I make in the future just need a 4" gusset. Guess I need to find a purse pattern that accommodates that. Thanks for the advice.

Edited by anester05
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Posted

The purse "should" be sewn from the outside surfaces. The problem here is that the end of the arm is bigger than the gusset and the bottom flange will be pushing it as it moves along the machine. If you can wrangle the purse to pull the bottom side away, as you sew, and keep the flange pressed against the roller guide, things should go good.

The stirrup plate adds more complexity to this problem. Ditto for the holster plate. What I have done is I ground off some material on the left side of my standard plates, allowing me to get shaped closer to the needle. This means there is less support for wide projects. But, that is when you can install the table attachment.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted (edited)

I think I will do some experimenting tonight with the ruined gusset and cut a blank to sew onto it. I will use the roller guide with a double foot. I need to figure this out so I can sew the gussets into these purses. I think I can make a new gusset with a 5/8" tab to see if that gives me extra wiggle room. I will also extend the new gusset to possibly 3". Maybe the purses I make in the future just need a 4" gusset. Guess I need to find a purse pattern that accommodates that. Thanks for the advice.

You can make the gusset any width you want with the pattern you have. The purse will never know it called for a 2 inch gusset. Make the flap longer so it still is in the right place to buckle or however it fastens on the front. It's just like i tried to tell my neighbor you can put a GM motor in a Ford change motor mounts and such the car will never know or care.

Edited by dirtclod

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

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Posted

You can make the gusset any width you want with the pattern you have. The purse will never know it called for a 2 inch gusset. Make the flap longer so it still is in the right place to buckle or however it fastens on the front. It's just like i tried to tell my neighbor you can put a GM motor in a Ford change motor mounts and such the car will never know or care.

The problem is the flap is set I have already carved it but I think I can extend the gusset a bit without too many problems. I am doing this purse as an experiment anyway so when I get to a purse that matters I don't screw it up. but we'll see.

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Posted

thats what I am probably going to do. I just hope the manual stitch works well enough with the decorative stitch I already put on the back and flap. It will look better than a screwed up stitch but this is a give away project now.

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Posted

I don't know why a stirrup plate wouldn't work.

It's all a matter of how you hold your mouth anyway.

Back to the bench,

Paul

"When you finally get your wings, don't complain about the wind in your face."

  • Moderator
Posted

I don't know why a stirrup plate wouldn't work.

It's all a matter of how you hold your mouth anyway.

I suppose that the stirrup, or holster plates would let him get in close to the edge being sewn, but, the opposite side and its protruding 1/2 inch flange will be hitting the bobbin cover plate on the shuttle housing. This assumes sewing from the outside towards the gusset, rather than from inside the gusset.

Flexibility of the purse will determine if the opposite side can be pushed out of the way enough to allow the sewn side to advance evenly.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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