particle Report post Posted October 1, 2012 Here's an IWB holster I just completed. It's stained with Tandy's Pro Waterstain "Red", and airbrushed with Fiebing's Pro Oil "Black". I don't know about y'all, but I'm glad there are customers out there that still like to add tooling, even though the holster is concealed. Yeah, I know - I need to buy black hardware. Here's another holster I just completed for a local guy. Not sure what the model number is, but it's for a S&W .45ACP revolver. The tension messed up for some reason, and the bobbin thread wasn't pulling up into the leather for about half of the stitching. I ended up pulling out all the stitching at the very end and re-stitched it - that's why the thread is different colors (same thread, just 'cleaner' since it wasn't discolored by the previous steps). I have to admit - I'm not a fan of revolver holsters that are detail molded. They're a pain in the rear! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted October 1, 2012 Love the color combination and also the total look...very fine holster...me just getting a bit more serious with pancake holsters, needing lots of help...I do like the tooling and the large tread on both holsters....but I am thinking if over time the back of the holster...which receives a lot use and rubbing will harm the protruding thread? Not shure....thread channel would be way to go?....love the airbrush dye on your work. Very fine wet molding! Thanks for sharing...great work!! Jimbob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted October 1, 2012 Those are beautiful! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanview Report post Posted October 1, 2012 really nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted October 2, 2012 Very nice as usual, Eric. But, something about the reinforcement of the second holster bothers me, though. Not terribly, but the overall shape seems a bit off, compared to your usual designs. I see a spoon shape on the front whereas you usually have an asymetry which I like much more. The back side of that same holster's reinforcement is asymetrical and doesn't have the same effect. Know what I mean? The first holster is a perfect example of the opposite effect. It has an asymetrical harmony front and back. Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sgb Report post Posted October 2, 2012 Increadibly nice work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted October 2, 2012 Your 1911 holster looks great! The tooling is classy and the 2-tone look is very nice. If I had to nitpick, I'd say bring that dustcover stitch down by 1. Great as usual, though. The revolver holster is kind of oddly shaped, and I agree with what's been said; it doesn't look like your normal designs. It looks like it rides awfully high and I would abbreviate the mouthband. I think it's a tad large. I think it would look better if it came past the edge of the cylinder on the trigger side and stop. The bright white thread looks great, though. White thread is my favorite to use and always sets off the piece. When are you gonna quit using the Fiebings dye and use Angelus? You won't have any discolored thread once you do... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abram Report post Posted October 3, 2012 As always I am inspired by your work. I really like the two tone look and hopefully when funds are more plentiful I can purchase an air brush and give it a go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojoewrkn Report post Posted October 4, 2012 Great work Eric! I like the red and black! I made one recently also that is red(Fiebing's Cherry Stain) and black and I really like how it turned out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted October 4, 2012 I appreciate the comments everyone. The customer has had a chance to wear the holster for a couple days now and absolutely loves it and says it conceals very well. His only complaint was I used too thin of leather on the straps (6-7 oz). I think I didn't get the Dot snaps hammered home enough, so it was a little difficult to snap closed. Now that I've learned that is a problem with the snaps, I'll pay more attention to make sure I hammer the crimp down enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted October 4, 2012 My customer posted a few photos on another board. I'll go ahead and post them here since it shows the gun inside the holster. Looking back at the photos, I probably could have lowered it maybe 1/2". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) I broke down and bought a press for setting the snaps a few months ago. I was having the same trouble and kept bending posts. I love the press, no more problems. I'd been using 6/7 oz leather for the straps until recently. I made one with 8/9 oz straps for a LEO friend, everyone who has seen the two prefers the 8/9 oz leather. I've permanently switched to that now. Your holsters are awesome as always. Edited October 4, 2012 by Matt Alsaker Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted October 4, 2012 I broke down and bought a press for setting the snaps a few months ago. Yeah, I need to buy a press too. Are you using the directional PTD snaps? If so, are you slicing a tiny slot for the protruding tab to stick down into the leather to keep it from turning? I use an alw and pierce a hole. Otherwise, the snap doesn't sit flat on the leather. I suppose I can try dampening the flesh side right before I set the snap. Not sure what the correct method is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted October 4, 2012 I use PTD snaps. With the press / dies I have not needed to make a slot for the tab. The dies hold everything nicely in place. The die presses the tab into the leather, keeping it from turning. I bought the press and dies from Weaver. The dies Weaver sends are from Tandy (I didn't know that at the time). I love the press, there is plenty of leverage and it is easy to get a feel of when the snap / rivet is set properly. I love the dies also, but if you are a member of Tandy's Wholesale Club you can get the dies cheaper directly from them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted October 5, 2012 Your 1911 holster looks great! The tooling is classy and the 2-tone look is very nice. If I had to nitpick, I'd say bring that dustcover stitch down by 1. Great as usual, though. The revolver holster is kind of oddly shaped, and I agree with what's been said; it doesn't look like your normal designs. It looks like it rides awfully high and I would abbreviate the mouthband. I think it's a tad large. I think it would look better if it came past the edge of the cylinder on the trigger side and stop. The bright white thread looks great, though. White thread is my favorite to use and always sets off the piece. When are you gonna quit using the Fiebings dye and use Angelus? You won't have any discolored thread once you do... Which black from Angelus do you prefer, Dick? Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted October 5, 2012 I use the Jet Black. It penetrates well, is evenly toned, and there's very little buffing required. I've never had any of the Angelus dye bleed off on thread or clothing. Their cordovan dye is really pretty, too. A single dip and you have the perfect even tone. Doesn't get much easier than that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
husker Report post Posted October 5, 2012 I'm curious about the Angelus dyes myself. I have been using the pro oil from Fieblings and have been pretty happy with it for the most part, but I airbrush it so I haven't had any issues with it coming out even, more of an issue of longevity, if they get a scratch in it the dye is only on the surface. When you dip dye are you diluting it or is it full stregth? Sorry about the spelling, can't get spellcheck to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted October 6, 2012 It's full strength. I fully submerge the leather of my holsters/carriers in the dye and pull them right out. I don't let them sit in it. They're out of the bath as soon as they're wet. As you said, the airbrush is very even (that's why I bought one in 2009 to use solely for dye), but is merely painting dye on the very surface. There's not a whole lot of penetration, so scuffs and scratches will show through easier than on leather dip-dyed. Side note: I'm currently experimenting with yet another brand of dye along the same line as Angelus. Oddly, I don't think I've ever seen it mentioned in this forum. I'll post results after I've collected them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt Hammerless Report post Posted October 6, 2012 Another brand of dye? Hmmmmm.......interesting! Please keep us posted! By the way dickf, I seem to recall that you also dip your work in your finish (Angelus 600.) Do you need different containers of finish for each color? Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted October 7, 2012 Another brand of dye? Hmmmmm.......interesting! Please keep us posted! By the way dickf, I seem to recall that you also dip your work in your finish (Angelus 600.) Do you need different containers of finish for each color? Paul Hey Paul! Sure dont! It doesn't bleed, period. Maybe it's time for a dip dye video... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted October 7, 2012 Great work as always Particle. How'd ya like the Pro Waterstain? That's what I've using lately and I like it. I may have to add that red to my shelf. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt Hammerless Report post Posted October 7, 2012 Hey Paul! Sure dont! It doesn't bleed, period. Maybe it's time for a dip dye video... I figured it must not, otherwise you'd be buying an awful large amount of finish. Good to hear. A dip dying and dip finishing video would be awesome! Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted October 8, 2012 I love tutorial videos! Bring em' on! CountryTrash - I really like the Tandy Pro Waterstains - very easy to apply and the coloring is very consistent. But, it does affect the surface a bit, making it absorb water differently. Oil doesn't absorb as quickly, etc. I had to soak my holsters a bit longer than normal for the water to absorb enough for forming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted October 9, 2012 Where do you get the Angelus in quantities large enough for dipping? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
