Members Spinner Posted October 22, 2012 Members Report Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks all...Ive tried going up a size, to the largest channel i have, but i suspect its still too small for my belts and such..i should have got the flat drum and the 1/2 inch channel....ahhh...another lesson learned.. If you're using the standard set, I believe the largest channel is 3/8" and should burnish a double thickness of 9oz without issue if it's prepped correctly. If your leather thickness is more than a total of 18oz (9/32") then yes, the 1/2" channel would be the way to go. Quote Chris Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com
Mike516 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Posted December 22, 2012 I just got a couple of the dremmel burnishers and was wondering what speed you all use to get the best edges. I have never used a power burnisher before, and was surprised at how bad they vibrate after speed setting #6. Thanks. Quote
BearMan Posted December 22, 2012 Report Posted December 22, 2012 Hi Mike, About half way on the speed control,,, somewhere around 12000-15000rpm should be good. Is the wobble in just one dremel bit or all of them? Also are you using a flex shaft extension with the rotary tool? The reason I ask is that I just had to replace my flex shaft, & all the sudden, everything started to wobble. If it's isolated to certain bits, then the bits could be the problem. Dremel style burnishing tools don't really need much pressure to work,,, just a light or slightly more touch. But that being said, if by chance you have a bent one, it needs to be replaced. If I can help,,, just let me know. Thanks,,, Ed Quote Ed the"BearMan" polarb1717@aol.com Beary: BearMauls@yahoo.com http://tinyurl.com/BearMauls "The Best tooling mauls available today!"
Mike516 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Posted December 22, 2012 I'm not using an extension. Both bits vibrate any higher than speed 6 so bad that they make a buzzing noise. It's not the dremmel because all of my other tools are smooth at any speed. I just figured because they're hand made they aren't made perfectly true straight. Quote
Members Gump Posted January 20, 2013 Members Report Posted January 20, 2013 After reading several posts on dremmel burnishers I decided to make my own. I simply took a piece of 3/4" hardwood dowel and drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of it and put it on the 1/4" sanding drum arbor and took a chainsaw file and cut my groove with it. And yes wider by 2 works better than exact size. As they are easy and super cheap to make, I have as many sizes as I need and can change them in seconds.If they vibrate I simply take a flat file and true them up by running lightly over the file. If i get wax build up I just take 120 garnet paper and sand lightly, removing just the wax while trying not to remove any wood, works decent. With this method you can custom make widths up to 3/4" in a matter of ten mins. I just use maple doweling as it is not an oily wood like rosewood or cocobolo and heats the beeswax really quickly for good melt in without burning. Gump. Quote
Members Beachside Art Posted January 5, 2014 Members Report Posted January 5, 2014 Hi everyone! Thanks for all the helpful information. Have read through but still need some advice. I make dog collars and currently for burnishing edges I use one of the nylon circles from tandy but my hands are starting to hurt! I don't know anything about power tools so would love some advice on which one to get for the best price. I think I'll purchase one of the Cocobolo tools (http://leatherburnishers.com/Burnishers_for_Drills.html) but I have two major questions. 1.) How do I know which one/ones to get? (The leather I use is 8oz so doubled over at the buckle point would be 16oz) 2.) What tool do I get to attach it to? I don't have a bench I can drill in to, so a drill press is out for now (later that will change). So either a lathe, or a handheld drill? Will a handheld drill be too difficult to work with for smoothing edges? I'm not the strongest person so am weary that my hands and wrists will get sore still! Any help would be fantastic on this. Thanks in advance all! Quote
Members medsar Posted January 5, 2014 Members Report Posted January 5, 2014 First off, I own the regular cocobolo burnisher from Beary and one of their Bearmauls. I have been very impressed with their products and I will buy another Bearmaul and the hoslter burnisher in the future. 1.) How do I know which one/ones to get? (The leather I use is 8oz so doubled over at the buckle point would be 16oz) **** I use the regular burnisher for gun belts and other heavy duty belts (16-18oz all said and done) and the regular one works well. I think of the holster special for...just that. Knife and some types of gun holsters. BUT, I do recommend emailing Beary and asking 'em which one to buy. I did that with my Bearmaul and my burnisher and I was pleased with their recommendation. 2.) What tool do I get to attach it to? I don't have a bench I can drill in to, so a drill press is out for now (later that will change). So either a lathe, or a handheld drill? Will a handheld drill be too difficult to work with for smoothing edges? I'm not the strongest person so am weary that my hands and wrists will get sore still! *** Holding the drill and burnishing would be hard. So, I bought a Harbor Freight drill (I don't like HF products, but their drill has lasted and it has a variable speed built into the switch). I cut the handle off and mounted the plastic drill case inside of an aluminum project box using rivets and epoxy. I have it mounted sideways so the burnisher is orthogonal to the benchtop but parallel to the ground/ceiling. I also bought a foot switch for the plug so I can just step on the button and the thing goes. I spent $20 on the drill, 10$ on the box, and around $8-10 for the switch ($40 total). That may be a little fancy. But I have seen pictures of people taking a drill and a some metal plumbers tape to mount the drill sideways on the table. Or you can take the drill apart like I did and screw the plastic case to your benchtop and then re-assemble the drill. Another reason to buy the HF drill -- it has a built in 'stay-on' feature so you can depress the trigger once and then it stays on until you push another a button. That way, you get two hands to work the leather. Does any of this make any sense at all? If you're worried about building a setup like I described, you can always buy the dremel setup.... Hope this helps Quote
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