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DSCN3937.JPG

Thought I'd post a picture of a pancake I finished recently. Please feel free to comment both good and bad.

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Looks really good. Too bad about the little blotch at the top but I've had that happen before. Glad it's small.

I like the color and the sewing is perfect. Nice design.

ArtS

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Looks really good. Too bad about the little blotch at the top but I've had that happen before. Glad it's small.

I like the color and the sewing is perfect. Nice design.

ArtS

Thanks, Art. It's Fiebing's Light Brown. It may be me, but if I do six holsters, I get six totally different results. And those blotches show up in about 75% of 'em. :deadsubject:

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It is something on or in the leather, dirt ,oil, wax, could be anything and usually can't be seen until it's to late. Happens way too often to me even if I deglaze. Maybe I need to buy a better quality of leather and keep my space and self cleaner. :wacko: Really a very nice holster great shape and top job on the stitching.

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That is one sleek looking holster. Nice molding job! I've always liked the scars, and oil splotches. To me it means genuine leather.

I have found some limited success by using Feibing's Deglazer as a step before dyeing. In many cases, I have found a better dye job than from the same leather not being wiped with the deglazer.

Wipe it off on a newspaper before you rub it on the leather. Full strength can leave more damage than a blotch.

I have not tried spraying it on, but there might be some goodness in that idea.

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I like the color as well. As mentioned, could be something on the leather. Though I have no idea what or why other people would have trouble and I get away with completely abusing a holster as I make it and it comes out alright. Could have to do with the type of dye and its sensitivity to anything on the leather vs another type of dye.

Is it me or does that 1911 have no slide stop pin exiting the right side of the frame??? :unsure:

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Very nice Bruce i like the lines its a very flowing design and perfect stitching nice molding too, Don

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Excellent holster!

Those little blotches are the leather talking to you. It's saying " Put your maker's stamp right here."

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What kind / brand of leather are you using. I stopped buying Tandy leather years ago because of the same type of thing happening after casing the leather. Use Herman Oak or Wickett & Craig and you will not have that problem.

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Many thanks to everyone for the input and kind words.

Shorts, the slide-stop pin is there, I just didn't detail it (I didn't put the holster in the press). It shows up on this one as just a little bump.

Randy, the leather's Hermann Oak. It's all I use. I just have a heck of a time with the Fiebing's Light Brown Pro Oil Dye for some reason. Every holster I do comes out different--most of the time it's not a bad thing, but once in awhile they'll look completely "splotched."

I'm leaning toward "operator error."

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Bruce, Beautiful job all around! Amazing stitching! I too have had blotching problems, in fact my last gun rig came out so un-even that I re-dyed the entire project BLACK. Now that seems to cover ok! :thumbsup:

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Bruce then that would be why I don't see it :D

Nice work

Thank you, ma'am. I was hiding it from you. :spoton:

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Nice holster, I really like the bead line just outside your stitch line it adds something you don't usually see on a PC holster. Good Job !

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Great looking holster...I'm tired of whining about Fiebings dyes, so i won't.....but i do like the workmansship......molding is outstanding....

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Bruce,

That's a very cool-looking holster. I really like the color and stitching. :thumbsup:

Can we see a picture of the back, please?

Thanks for posting this. . .

L'bum

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DSCN3942.JPG

Here's a shot of the backside. I guess I should have put it up from the start. Thank you again for all the nice words.

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Bruce,

Nice looking holster. I too have problems with Fieblings light brown dye. My light brown turns out maroon and I've had the same problems with blotching. I guess I need to try deglazing a little better.

Do you use the dye full strength and if not, what do you cut it with?

Randy

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Bruce,

Nice looking holster. I too have problems with Fieblings light brown dye. My light brown turns out maroon and I've had the same problems with blotching. I guess I need to try deglazing a little better.

Do you use the dye full strength and if not, what do you cut it with?

Randy

Thank you, Randy. I haven't been cutting the dye--use it full strength. I did discover that it's not just me...on the Kramer Gunleather site, in their FAQ's they talk about the tan/light brown and what a roll of the dice it is. I believe they actually charge more for it because it is unpredictable. Here's a link to them--the question/answer is #39:

Kramer Gunleather

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I can't believe ya'll would say such nice things about his holster - shame, shame, shame. I was always taught to not say anything at all unless I could say something nice.... Hmm...well....uh....let me see - the maker's stamp looks nice. Kind of looks like a billboard to me. :whistle:

Bruce, it looks like you need to sign up for my all-special, how to make a real holster, class. It's a 3-day intensive training class on how to learn how to make holsters. The cost, you ask? A very reasonable $2400. I only offer one of these a year, and I only have one seat/opening left available. So you best sign up quick if'n you want to learn anything. I think you could greatly benefit from this class....

:rofl:

Nice holster there, my friend. Like Rhome mentioned, I also think the extra line around the edge(s) adds a nice accent. Keep up the good work. B)

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Thank you, sir. You had me goin' there for a couple paragraphs. I was bracin' myself for the zinger.

Keep in mind, I've spent a lot of years dealing with rodeo gear--primarily bullriding equipment. With that, you should know that there's danged few cowboys that ever spend any time with $2400 whole dollars all at once in the same place.

You jest about the holster-making class, but I think that'd be a heck of an idea. If you're serious about it, we might be able to wrangle up some students.

Edited by BruceGibson

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Thank you, Randy. I haven't been cutting the dye--use it full strength. I did discover that it's not just me...on the Kramer Gunleather site, in their FAQ's they talk about the tan/light brown and what a roll of the dice it is. I believe they actually charge more for it because it is unpredictable. Here's a link to them--the question/answer is #39:

Kramer Gunleather

Bruce, very nice and professional holster, I like it very much! How often did you dye it? I always get very dark results with fiebings light & medium brown and tan dye's when I dye the leather more than once.

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Bruce, very nice and professional holster, I like it very much! How often did you dye it? I always get very dark results with fiebings light & medium brown and tan dye's when I dye the leather more than once.

Thank you, Rolf. I only dyed it once. I used sheepskin to wipe the dye on back and front of the face piece (didn't dip/vat dye this one) and then molded. The wetting process for molding seems to be the factor that causes the dye changes--the "blotching." The color always looks even and "right," until after molding--then, it's anybody's game.

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Nice job Bruce.

Browns are always tougher to get consistent results.

About classes... A couple of our MN carry forums get together every month or so at my place or another members to have people make their own holsters with help from the folks like use who have made a few. I guess I need to charge for the class now :lol:

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