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Posted

Glad the information was helpful Bill. As for that little tab on your check spring unit, Constabulary is correct, try giving it a bit more room with a screwdriver, followed with a piece of 400 grit cloth folded in half to take care of any sharp spots. From what I can see of your machine, it looks to be in good shape!

Pcox is right about that protrusion on the top of your machine. Here's a pic of a newer 211 with the original light unit so you can see what it looked like. Good design, horrible light. The light output from the motor is just 6.3 volts and used a 17w bulb. Not much light really.

Regards, Eric

post-33297-0-65954000-1422112266_thumb.j

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

I hope this helps anyone that is having any issues w/ the following industrial sewing machines.

Singer Models:

112W116 (FSN 3530-171-2123)

131W113 (FSN 3530-222-3422)

7-33 (FSN 3530-171-1730)

97-10 (FSN 3530-171-2095)

17W15 (FSN 3530-288-5936)

55-5 (FSN-222-3428)

111W155 (FSN 3530-359-8856)

Department of The Army - FREE E-BOOK on Organization & Field Maintenance on the Industrial Models listed above.

https://books.google.com.au/books?id=jCUYAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&hl=en#v=onepage&q&f=false

Hope I helped someone in the need I was in!!

Best,

Jodi

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Posted

Thanks Jodi,

Information and education are always needed. Even after 35 years of machine repair, I'm still learning.

Regards, Eric

  • 1 year later...
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Posted (edited)

Almost two years since last post.  How did everyone come out?  I did get a 1541S and the 111W has sat.  I threaded the 111W the other day and remembered that backlashing issue was never entirely solved.  Rereading my posts, I thought I had it licked.  I can't remember that happening.

Update:  The feeling when sewing is that at a certain place as the needle begins to ascend a let off of power(hand or motor) will cause the needle to reverse direction just a bit - just when in a certain place in the cycle.  This causes slack on the forming loop which is not yet all the way around the hook.  This slack causes the lower thread of the loop to drop down and catch under the hook.  I have timed and retimed, checked shaft screw detents, etc.  I think this is the same issue TSquared was having.  That resistance point causing the backlash remains - even without the belt on.  Today I noticed that the lift linkage entering the back of the machine is touching the presser bar when at full throw. Adjusting the presser-lifting crank screw has now allowed it to stop short of hitting the presser bar.  I have yet to read a starting point for this linkage setup.  Nonetheless the resistance there is gone even at full lift eccentric adjustment.  Now I need to figure out how to adjust the lift of the presser bar. I either have it not touching the throat plate or it's touching and has zero lift movement when sewing. The vibrating foot will now lift about 1/2" to the 1/8" or so of the presser.

Unfortunately, I still have backlash.  Smoother but the needle bar still wants to fall back down about 1/8" when power is let off. 

My wife wants me to sell it as I really don't "need" it but it would be a great second or third operation machine and I know it can be fixed.  

Hope all are doing well!

Dave

Kansas City

Edited by dmar836
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Posted (edited)

I havent re read the post, but will say the banana slot adjustment does not seem to me the only adjustment for this issue.

The step by boring step is what i have to do because it works for me A. through Z., now finding and using the proper manual is key.

Floyd

Edited by brmax
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Posted

If you have a motor take the belt off and just turn it by hand.  You should be able to get it to sew a few inches by hand before going back to the motor.

First try and get it to sew without thread and make sure the needle is not hitting the needle plate, feed dogs or hook.  If it pass's this test you should be able to change the stitch length (smallest to longest) and get the same results.  You may need a second set of hands to turn the wheel while you watch.  Then I use a piece of white paper and try and get it to sew that again no thread, just check the stich length and feeding mechanism.  Then if that is good and not grinding anything, thread it up and see if you can sew the paper a few inches by hand.  I attached the guide so you can walk through the settings again.  Its also a Singer so you need to firmly hold both threads with your left hand while you turn the wheel on the first few stiches or it won't set the first stiches correctly. 

I attached the guide. 

 

 

 

 

SINGER-111W152-111W153-111W154-111W155.pdf.lnk

One day I hope to learn how to sew.....

Singer 111W155 - Singer 29-4 - Singer 78-1 - Singer 7-31 - Singer 109w100 - Singer 46W-SV-16 - Adler 20-19 - Cowboy CB-4500

Posted
1 hour ago, Yetibelle said:

If you have a motor take the belt off and just turn it by hand.  You should be able to get it to sew a few inches by hand before going back to the motor.

First try and get it to sew without thread and make sure the needle is not hitting the needle plate, feed dogs or hook.  If it pass's this test you should be able to change the stitch length (smallest to longest) and get the same results.  You may need a second set of hands to turn the wheel while you watch.  Then I use a piece of white paper and try and get it to sew that again no thread, just check the stich length and feeding mechanism.  Then if that is good and not grinding anything, thread it up and see if you can sew the paper a few inches by hand.  I attached the guide so you can walk through the settings again.  Its also a Singer so you need to firmly hold both threads with your left hand while you turn the wheel on the first few stiches or it won't set the first stiches correctly. 

I attached the guide. 

SINGER-111W152-111W153-111W154-111W155.pdf.lnk

This is only a shortcut link from your computer.  Not the pdf.  Please retry.

Tom

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Posted (edited)

File is a little big I guess.  Its a nice color scan.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7bjBSb2Y2cjlMNGs/view?usp=sharing

see if that link works

Edited:  Downloaded file and attached it in case the google drive dries up.

SINGER-111W152-111W153-111W154-111W155.pdf

Edited by northmount
attached file

One day I hope to learn how to sew.....

Singer 111W155 - Singer 29-4 - Singer 78-1 - Singer 7-31 - Singer 109w100 - Singer 46W-SV-16 - Adler 20-19 - Cowboy CB-4500

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Posted
5 hours ago, Yetibelle said:

File is a little big I guess.  Its a nice color scan.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7bjBSb2Y2cjlMNGs/view?usp=sharing

se if that link works

 

Bingo! It works perfectly and the scan is excellent. Thanks.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted (edited)

Not sure what some of the above responses were referring to but mine will sew fine with the exception that it wants to backlash just a tad at the end of a run of stitches.  If in the right position this allows the hook to "drop" the forming thread loop, which then catches on the bottom of the hook body.  Any continuation further turns the hook as it should but this then breaks the loop as it's no longer held by the point.  I'm to the point of thinking a bent part is causing the resistance that causes backlash. 

I removed the needle bar and checked it.  It's .006 - .008 out of round.  The presser bar also has some resistance and often wont hit the throat plate without significant foot tension dialed in.  I might have to replace both the needle and presser bars but spending money on it and risking no change?.... I'm wearing thin with this one.

Dave

 

P.S.  That's one of the best scans I've seen of that manual.  Thanks!

Edited by dmar836

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