Holster Belt - Two Layers Or One Thick One?

[Jon in GA]

I've been making some holsters, and started to think about trying my hand a making my own belt. A good sturdy holster belt can cost a bit, plus I'd like to make a matching belt/holster/mag pouch set. I've been digging through the forums looking at threads about holster belts.

It seems that the general consensus is that you want at LEAST 10-12oz or more of leather, unless you use some sort of stiffener..

Here's my question - I don't have a leather sewing machine, so any stitching I do is by hand. A belt is quite a bit of stitching, so can I just use one layer of really thick leather? I saw in one thread where someone (Katsass, I think?) referenced using heavy (13oz) bridle strips (though he lines his with another layer of very light leather, if I recall correctly) - would one 13oz or so strip make a sturdy enough belt, or does the double layer design add to the stiffness?

Thanks!

[Matt Alsaker]

I can't say for sure. Everyone seems to make it with two layers, so that's the way I've always made them. I never tried just a single thick piece. I have read some opinions that say two layers is better than one layer of the same thickness. The reasoning was: 1) the contact adhesive adds rigidity, 2) the grain of the two hides gives strength (similar to how plywood gets its strength), and 3) the act of stitching adds strength and that's why some people other two rows of stitching (for additional strength). I don't know the validity to any of this. I've always done two layers of 6/7 oz with a single row of stitching. I've been very happy with this setup and never had any complaints for those who wear my belts. Hope that helps, but it's just my opinion.

[MADMAX22]

Yeah as stated the stitching adds stiffness to the belt and helps a little I think with stretching. When I started I made several belts with either a layer of 8oz and 5oz and then later on layers of 10-12oz lined with a layer of 4-5oz. Once stitched these were the beast your looking for.

The first belt I stitched probably took me 4 hours or so. By the time I got to my 3rd or 4th one I was at about 2 hours for a 42" overall length belt. I would glue the pieces together, trim the edges. Groove my stitching line, run my stitch spacer then punch all the holes with my awl. This helped me anyways. Then I could just sit and stitch. You can do it the traditional way but I didnt get the hand coordination to work right but it would make it quicker. If your just making yours spend the time and stitch it, it will make ya happy in the end.

[Redrock64]

Adding a liner always adds stiffness to a belt but more importantly it give the product a finished and professional look. I line almost every product. For gun belts I use two combinations, most of the time I use 6-7 oz surface with a 5-6 oz liner or 7-8 oz surface with a 6-7 oz liner it depends on the style of belt. I have hand stiched many cartrage belts and yea its a long process, but in the end its worth it the belt looks 100% better in the end. By using 13 oz saddle skirting it makes for a real stiff belt unless you oil the heck out of it. Some old timers say that you can never apply too much oil but that is a topic that is highly debated.

[Jon in GA]

Thanks for the pointers, guys. Looks like I'm in for some long evenings stitching in front of the tv!

[footrat]

The problem you're going to have with once piece of heavy leather is stretching. I carry with a belt that's made from a single piece of 8/9, and it's a bit floppy. It has stretched lengthwise by a little bit, too. If it weren't a gun belt, it'd be fine, and in fact, when I can't carry, it is fine. When I get a chance, I'm going to try either a piece of 13 oz. or a two-layer belt.

[DustyPaws]

This is great information, thanks for sharing! 

I was initially going to use one layer of 9~10oz, and then finish it with Leather Sheen on the top and leave the inner liner open (for for grip on my pants). 

Would Leather Sheen still be a good idea with two layers? 
Thanks for any suggestions! 
-=Derek=-
 

[DieselTech]

15 minutes ago, DustyPaws said:

This is great information, thanks for sharing! 

I was initially going to use one layer of 9~10oz, and then finish it with Leather Sheen on the top and leave the inner liner open (for for grip on my pants). 

Would Leather Sheen still be a good idea with two layers? 
Thanks for any suggestions! 
-=Derek=-
 

I made a 1¾ lined & reinforced gun belt & used a product called Super Sheen on it.

My buddy has been wearing it everyday for the past 2-3years & yet to have any problems with it. 

It is hand saddle stitched. 

 

[Dwight]

I have always followed John Bianchi's pattern . . . two layers . . . resulting in a belt that is basically 1/4 inch thick (they run from .200 to .240 inches thick . . . depending on the leather I have available . . . 

The key to keeping it from slipping from around your waist . . . is to make it on a curve . . . if you can vision a bow the length of your belt . . . having about 6 inches from the bow to the bow string . . . dead center of the bow.  That is about the curve you want for a 40 inch belt.  You wear the curve so the longer side is the bottom edge of the belt.

Always measure the gun belt to be 4 inches longer than the belt that holds up your britches . . . . 

And yes . . . double layers are always stronger . . . simply because you have two "hair sides" of the belt.  The hair side is the strength side . . . one 16 oz belt will be no stronger than a belt made of two 6 oz pieces . . . glued flesh side to flesh side . . . and stitched around the whole edge.

But now comes the best information . . . Madmaxx got you started . . . trim the belt (sand the edges on a belt sander if you have one . . . they're 50 bucks at harbor freight . . . mine is 20 years old . . . then stitch groove both sides . . . get your 6 stitches per inch or 5 stitches per inch . . . whichever you want to use . . . buy some 346 waxed nylon thread . . . and get a couple of size 22 needles for production sewing machines.

Lay a piece of 1 by 4 on your drill press . . . put the 22 needle in the drill press . . .  drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of that 24 inch 1 x 4 . . . about 1 1/2 inches from the edge . . . and with the drill bit in that hole . . . c clamp the back of the board to the drill press . . . take out the drill bit . . . put in the needle . . . unplug the drill press.

Use the drill press to make your stitch holes . . . and I'll guarantee you there are very few people who can use an awl and get their holes as perfectly up and down as you will with the drill press.  If they are not 90 degree . . . your back side of the belt will have stitches wandering like a drunken Marine (sailors don't stagger . . . just Marines)  

Punch the holes down  thru the outside finished face of the belt.

Next . . . take a couple of 1 x 2 boards . . . about 6 inches longer than the belt . . . sandwich the belt between the 1 x 2's . . .  leaving about 1/2 inch of the belt sticking out . . . the part you are stitching . . . c clamp them to the edge of your work table . . . turn on your favorite John Wayne western . . . and start stitching . . . this will go faster than any other style other than machine stitching.  One good John Wayne  . . . and one Marshall Dillon should be enough to get you at least mostly thru the belt.

Have fun. . . may God bless,

Dwight