Flat Back Pancake

[chiefjason]

I'm hand boning mine, but it's a lot like what Dwight is talking about. I wet the front piece, let it set a bit, then mold it to the gun. I mold it all the way down to the table top. I cut it longer on the sides, but I'm starting to cut it pretty close on the bottom instead of leaving it long. It makes for less trimming in the end, and trimming the molded portion can be tricky if you go too long. I generally cut a workable pattern out of cardboard as a guide for cutting my leather.

Once it's molded I let it dry. I cut the back to the exact size I want it. Put the gun back in and line everything up and mark the leather where I want it. Glue it and clamp it. Trim the edges, sand them, and get them about 90% done. Then I lay out my stitch grooves and stitch holes. I normally pre punch all the holes too. Then I groon the leather and dry it in a hot box. I oil the holster. Then I sew it after it's oiled. After sewing I wax and finish it.

I used to groon then sew. But I started noticing that the wax from my thread was acting like a resist to the groon. It's much less work to sew last. I've got a 1911 that will be finished tomorrow.

[SooperJake]

The leading edge of the holster having the front sight, etc. is all sewn, edged, beveled, etc. at this point.

Dwight, can you further explain this part? If I read you right, you have not sewn on the trigger guard side?

[Dwight]

Dwight, can you further explain this part? If I read you right, you have not sewn on the trigger guard side?

Yessir, . . . that is correct. The leading edge of my pancake is for all tense and purposes done, . . . the back half still needs everything, . . . but it will not happen until the "middle" step is done, . . . which is the molding.

Hope this helps.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bobby hdflame]

I really like the snap idea. The silver snaps look good, but you could use black snaps for someone looking not to draw attention.

I don't know if you know about "Pull The Dot Snaps, but if you're concerned about them accidentally coming unsnapped, you could use them. Here's a couple of videos showing how they work and how to install them.

http://www.sailrite.com/Pull-The-Dot-Snap-Fasteners-Locking-Snap-or-One-Way-Snap-Streaming-Video

You can set up a commercial account with Sailrite in order to get better pricing.

Thanks for sharing your snap idea.

[chiefjason]

Bobby,

I've got black pull the dots on order right now. Ordered them directly from dot. Just sucked it up and ordered 100 as it was the minimum. I'm going to make loops with them too. After much tinkering I finally got the hang of them. The video you posted is probably the one that got everything to click in my head about how to set them up. And those snaps are actually black line 24's, but there is probably a ton of glare on them.

[Bobby hdflame]

You know, I just ran across this post again, and while reading it over I had a thought. There were a couple of questions about how much to allow extra on the top/front piece of leather to allow for forming.

When I make a pattern for a semi-auto, I allow 1/2 the thickness of the gun as the distance around the guns outline for the stitch line. Since you're molding the front and back, 1/2 the thickness works out because you have twice the leather you're molding around the gun.

If I wanted to just mold the front piece of leather, I could allow the thickness of the gun (Instead of just 1/2) on just the top piece and not the bottom. Wouldn't this work out?

Now I'm trying to think about how to attach the two sides together?? Finish one side, like was said above, mold, then sew and finish the other? I'm thinking for a flat back, that I could make a press using wood on the bottom and neoprene just on the top. That way only the top should form to the gun, the back should remain flat on the wood. Also, just wet the top.

I could just form the top and then stitch to a flat piece of leather I guess. Since I use a machine to sew, wasn't sure how easy it would be to stitch close enough to the edge of the molded area. I guess I just need to try it!

Any thoughts from anyone else?

[chiefjason]

Personally, I cut the back piece to the exact dimensions I want it. That is my guide for the finished holster. I just eyeball the front. The top is cut where I want it and I cut the sides long enough to compensate for molding and cut the bottom just a touch long too. I think adding the thickness of the gun to the edges should work. I also lay the gun down and get it where I want it on the back side, then lay the unmolded top on, flip the gun and top over and sketch out a guide for where I want the gun to be when I start molding. Another plus is that I burnish the inside before I mold, and reburnish it before I finish if I'm leaving the inside natural on the finished holster.

When I mold the leather I mold it all the way to the table top. Then I put it in the oven to dry. You may need to put some weight on the "wings" so they don't turn up in the oven.

When I start glueing I get the 2 pieces lined up where I want them. Then I draw a line around the back of the holster onto the longer front as a guide. Then I do the same on the inside. That gives me a guide to lay out my glue on the back. Then I glue, clamp, and let dry. Once it's dry I trim to shape, edge it, and lay out my stitch lines.

After that I normally dye the leather before sewing it. It does not effect the glue. Even grooning and soaking is the baking soda bath is fine.

I hand bone mine, so no thoughts on pressing. I also hand stitch mine. I'm curious about using a machine on these too.

I finally made myself one. I used some local guys as guinea pigs on these. I am really liking it so far. I need to take some pics of the next one I make. I just bought a CZ83 so I'll probably do one for it next.

[supercub]

It's actually pretty easy to stitch along the molded portion with a machine IF you use the correct presser foot. Rather than using the normal double presser foot that comes with the machine, I use a left or right foot that allows you to get right up to the molded edge. Makes it a lot easier. Most machines have the option for different feet. Replacement feet for both the Boss and the various Juki clones are readily available.

Now if somebody would just design a functional French box stitcher fixture that works on the Boss or Juki.......

[chiefjason]

Since this thread has jumped back up I'll throw my newest one on. I finally made one for my G19. Man, I am loving this holster! Been wearing it as much as possible the last couple days.

[supercub]

I tried a couple of new (to me) processes on the two holsters and mag pouch below. The metal belt clips are the second try after a less than quality experience with kydex. Still looking for a better option for clips. The Colt holster is a double front layer of 4/5 molded and then sewn to a 9 oz back. I had not used the vinagaroon process before - I like it, I think I will use it more! The S&W holster is an OLD piece of W&C drum dyed chestnut in 9oz.

This brings up the question - how old is too old when dealing with leather? Most of my existing leather are remanants left over from 8 or 10 years ago when I was building a lot of knife sheaths for custom makers. I moved away and sort of got out of leather working for a while. Now I'm back to making the occaisional holster for myself or friends. The leather was stored in cool, dark, dry storage and loosely rolled. It is dry to work and needs a little moisture to cut cleanly. It will bend without cracking, but it is a challenge to get good detail molding. Most of the horse butts I had, did not store as well. They tended to crack when trying to bend or mold. I know, I need to buy new leather, but I hate to throw away useable stock - any suggestions?