vander Report post Posted August 12, 2008 What is your prefered rawhide cutter? Has anyone made their own, I'm just starting and am looking for advice? thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted August 13, 2008 What is your prefered rawhide cutter? Has anyone made their own, I'm just starting and am looking for advice?thanks I wouldn't mind seeing this either. I can't afford a $425 cutter and beveler and all the one's I've tried to build so far, came out like crap. Right now, I am using the plastic tandy lace maker and have been very successful with it, but the beveling part, I have major problems with. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roo4u Report post Posted August 13, 2008 HEY GUYS...onthe leather tools forum there is a post by trastu shows a homemade string cutter...im going to try making one looks simple enough to build...has pix of it taken apart showing all the pieces looks like it would be easy enough to use it to bevel with as well. take a look. i too use the plastic lace maker from tandy and though i split my roo thinenough that it doesnt really need tobe beveled im wanting to learn the rawhide i also just made myself a braid rounder out of some oak i bought at a home store...after using it once i wonder how i did without it..i will post pix of it later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andystevens Report post Posted August 13, 2008 Hansen stringers are great and Gail Hought makes a really good one I have both and use each one of the them for different strings. The Hought does not have the splitter but has 45 and 33 angles and the Hansen has a splitter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 13, 2008 I think I have posted this before, I am sorry if this is repetitive. I had this made at a local welding shop. It is made from a solid piece of hydralic ram. It is nothing fancy, and there are a few changes that I am going to have made to it some day. But it works well for cutting rawhide and roo. I paid $50. If a guy was handy enough you could make one out of hardwood that would work I would think. Let me know if you need more info, dimensions, better pictures... etc. Would be happy to help. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rcsaddles Report post Posted August 13, 2008 I use the Aussie Lace Cutter for all my rawhide string. From some other posts on this site I use it backwards but it works for me. I have tried a draw gauge but that is too big for me to use. I have a homemade splitter as well as a couple that were given to me. I would be happy to post some pics as soon as I can figure out how to. (Someone please send me a pm with instructions) Beveling is another story. My instructor, Mary Fields, never beveled lace and i have not either. I seem to pull tight enough you can't really tell the lace is not beveled. This is rawhide, not leather. I know that is going to get afew hackles up and I will try beveling my rawhide sometime and probably change my mind on it but that is the way I do it now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted August 13, 2008 I use Bryan Neuberts string cutter/bevler. It is well worth the $400.00 Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted August 13, 2008 I use the one Gail Hought recommends. I tried a homemade one but it was frustrating. Nothing like learning something new and not having the right tools to learn it properly. It's so easy for a rookie to use. Most all my string is just lovely and nicely beveled. I haven't had a need until now to split my leather, but I have a green hide that I think is going to need it, hopefully I can find one that suits me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 15, 2008 I was asked for some more info on my string cutter, so here it is. There are a few things that I am going to change when I get a chance: The collar needs to be off set or a finger added so that the string is not against anything after it has passed the cutting edge. I have troubles some times when the strings are thick and a bit to dry wedging in and either breaking the blades off or busting the string. ( which I would rather have happen when cutting string than when braiding) I would also like to add another angle for beveling the current one is a bit steeper than 45 and I think one closer to 30 would be nice at times. Otherwise for the price it works great. I don't have some of the fine tuning that it looks like some of the others have but I am finding that the more I use it the better I get along with it. I have about $200 wrapped up in the splitter and cutter. If any of this is unclear or someone would like some more info or pictures I would be more than happy to help. Please do not hesitate to ask. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted August 15, 2008 I was asked for some more info on my string cutter, so here it is. There are a few things that I am going to change when I get a chance: The collar needs to be off set or a finger added so that the string is not against anything after it has passed the cutting edge. I have troubles some times when the strings are thick and a bit to dry wedging in and either breaking the blades off or busting the string. ( which I would rather have happen when cutting string than when braiding) I would also like to add another angle for beveling the current one is a bit steeper than 45 and I think one closer to 30 would be nice at times. Otherwise for the price it works great. I don't have some of the fine tuning that it looks like some of the others have but I am finding that the more I use it the better I get along with it. I have about $200 wrapped up in the splitter and cutter. If any of this is unclear or someone would like some more info or pictures I would be more than happy to help. Please do not hesitate to ask. Rob Rob this is great. Thanks for posting. I do have one follow up question/request. Dimensions? Not that I want to completely duplicate your design, The pictures just don't have much in relative size to judge with. Thanks so much for sharing this info. You're a gentleman and a scholar. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 15, 2008 Yeah sorry about the dimensions. It is 5.5 inches long by 1.5 inches in diameter. I like the diameter but having it be a few inches longer would be nice. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 17, 2008 Thought these might help someone understand a little better. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trastu Report post Posted August 17, 2008 is a good invention. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trastu Report post Posted August 20, 2008 Thought these might help someone understand a little better. Rob THAT Angulo has the knife inclinations?. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 21, 2008 Sorry trastu no hablo espanol, tell me again please. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crow Report post Posted August 22, 2008 my first cutter was very simple and took 2 hours to make. Another one was made by an welder for me, paied 40$ for this. crow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carr52 Report post Posted August 22, 2008 (edited) my first cutter was very simple and took 2 hours to make. Another one was made by an welder for me, paied 40$ for this.crow I made one like that some time back and it works great. The wooden one. Your design is alot better than the one I made. It adjusts out farther to cut wider strips. Thank you for sharing. Tom Edited August 22, 2008 by carr52 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trastu Report post Posted August 22, 2008 that inclination has blade? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted August 22, 2008 (edited) Trastu, ¿La mirada a la foto original del cortador (en el comentario 9)- ve los huecos grandes? Esto es realmente 3 pedazos, con un cerrojo que lo mantiene unido. El pequeño espacio entre los pedazos, un vertical y otro en un ángulo, es donde el cuchillo es insertada. Es sostenido en el lugar por la presión de la tuerca de mariposa en el cerrojo de asamblea. El anillo es movido hacia o lejos de el cuchillo para controlar la anchura. El anillo también puede ser colocado cerca de la ranura angulada para biselar el cordón. Al menos esto es como lo veo trabajar. (Online translation, y'all....I ain't that good!) Trastu, Look at the original pic of the cutter (in post # 9) - see the big gaps? It's actually 3 pieces, with a bolt holding it together. The little space between the pieces, one vertical and the other at an angle, is where the blade is inserted. It is held in place by pressure from the wing nut on the assembly bolt. The collar is moved towards or away from the blade to control width. The collar can also be placed close to the angled slot to bevel the lace. At least that's how I see it working. Edited August 22, 2008 by TwinOaks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trastu Report post Posted August 22, 2008 Trastu,¿La mirada a la foto original del cortador (en el comentario 9)- ve los huecos grandes? Esto es realmente 3 pedazos, con un cerrojo que lo mantiene unido. El pequeño espacio entre los pedazos, un vertical y otro en un ángulo, es donde el cuchillo es insertada. Es sostenido en el lugar por la presión de la tuerca de mariposa en el cerrojo de asamblea. El anillo es movido hacia o lejos de el cuchillo para controlar la anchura. El anillo también puede ser colocado cerca de la ranura angulada para biselar el cordón. Al menos esto es como lo veo trabajar. (Online translation, y'all....I ain't that good!) Trastu, Look at the original pic of the cutter (in post # 9) - see the big gaps? It's actually 3 pieces, with a bolt holding it together. The little space between the pieces, one vertical and the other at an angle, is where the blade is inserted. It is held in place by pressure from the wing nut on the assembly bolt. The collar is moved towards or away from the blade to control width. The collar can also be placed close to the angled slot to bevel the lace. At least that's how I see it working. thank you very much for the explanation. health Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted August 22, 2008 con mucho gusto. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted August 23, 2008 Twin Oaks thank you as well. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAW Report post Posted August 23, 2008 This is my favorite cutter Wayne Jueschke out of Elko made it but I'm not sure if he make this one any more ,the collars are adjusted by turning the knob on the back, that way I can make very fine adjustments. If you are going to be making alot of rawhide string I would advise having a good splitter also. this is the splitter I use the most, it uses razors ,when one gets dull you can just pop another one in it, Monte Severe made it along time ago and but doesn't make them anymore but there are many out there to choose from that are nearly the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8thsinner Report post Posted September 16, 2008 Just out of curiosity... Has anyone developed their own more portable version of a string cutter, or a new and adjustable version of the tandy lace cutter. I like it personally for several reasons...IMO It's easier to teach and show someone else how to cut. It's portable It uses easy to replace blades and has several settings, though these are not perfect. It doesn't even make full use of the length of the blade, And infact cutting from the inside only can be quite annoying if you need larger lace, but is it easy to cut flimsy leather on the outside if you need seriously long laces??? Ideally I would love to have a portable version of both a splitter and a cutter in one using the same blade, But I suspect it's not possible to get a good split when using the same double sided blade...Am I right in this assumption, I have to ask because I have never used a splitter myself. Love your own one btw, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAM Report post Posted September 24, 2008 I have Gail Hought's cutter and want to try Bryan Neubert's, but can't afford to own both (they're both pricey), so if anyone is interested in buying my perfect-condition Hought cutter at a used price, please contact me... Am I allowed to do this here? Or is there another place on Leatherworker.net to post equipment and tools for sale or trade? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites