Basic Saddle Stitch Tutorial By Nigel Armitage

[BearSpiritGuide]

Nigel,

If you don't mind me asking, does the top leather tool strap help secure the pony?

I believe the top strap is only a tool belt for the stump. The only strap holding the pony on is the bottom strap.

-BSG

[Tannin]

...

In this terrific video you seem to use the terms "pricking wheel" and "overstitch wheel" interchangeably. Maybe you could provide a bit of terminology clarification for those of us on this side of the big water who might be confused because we are used to the Tandy or Osborne overstitch wheels. As I understand, Tandy and Osborne overstitch wheels differ from a pricking wheel in that their stitch marks are just a point rather than an angled "slit" shaped mark as with a true pricking wheel. I think of a pricking wheel as a sort of circular prickng iron, though it makes only a diagonal mark, not an actual cut or depression into the leather like a prickng iron does when you strike it with a hammer or maul.

As I look closely at the marks your wheel makes, they appear to be angled, slightly elongated slits, not just points, or are my old eyes failing me? If that were the case I would call the wheel you are using a pricking wheel, not an overstitch wheel at least so far as those of us who are used to the Tandy or Osborne tools are concerned. Pricking wheels leave that diagonal mark as a reference by which to maintain the angle of your awl from hole to hole. They are hard to come by Stateside. So far as I am aware, we are limited to an antique one from Bruce Johnson or the like:

http://brucejohnsonl...and-channelers/

or purchase a new one from a Great Britain source like Joseph Dixon.

http://leather-tools.net/

I'd like to find a Stateside source a new prickng wheels but I know of none.

...

I didn't see a response to the above post. You're description matches my understanding of the difference between pricking wheel & overstitch wheels.

It is possible to buy new pricking wheels very cheaply these days. e.g. This one is only £1.29 inc. shipping from Amazon:

I bought one & tried it out last week. I was rather disappointed because I could not see the tiny point marks in the very dark brown (almost black), textured leather I was using (admittedly my eye sight is not what it used to be). I went back to using pricking irons instead.

Below is what I think of as an overstitch wheel but I have not tried one (they look tougher, more versatile & less prickly than pricking wheels):

From: http://www.marthastewart.com/1125947/how-sew-leather-hand

[bikermutt07]

Thanks for sharing these videos, Nigel.

You had mentioned something about your voice. Have no fear sir. Your voice is in contention with the likes of Morgan Freeman and James Earl Jones. And absolute pleasure to the ears.

As a southern man I have always thought my recorded voice sounds extremely hickish. But the ladies have always enjoyed it.

Anyway, I have subscribed to your channel, keep up the good work.

[bikermutt07]

You may need to email him at nigel@armitageleather.com

He takes requests but he encourages people to email them, that being where he looks most often.

[Bigfoote]

I noticed some folks wanting samples of the different colors of Tiger thread. Cy at Leatherwurx has samples and will sell you small quantities for special projects where you don't want to buy a whole roll. He is real good to deal with as well. Garry.

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/218679671/samples-22-tiger-thread-samples-ritza-25?ref=hp_rv

[Sheilajeanne]

The links on the first page no longer work, so reposting:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ue3zBg0bdA

[CLW]

I have been using Nigel's videos to improve my stitching (which I love to do).  I am right handed but hold the leather the way Nigel does (who is left handed right?)  My stitches end up looking better on the back of the piece than the front of the piece.  Thoughts? Comments? Help?!  Thanks all.

 

[zuludog]

Well CLW, I can't comment on your question, but this is a convenient place to mention that last year I went to a demonstration & lecture by Nigel. On his recommendation I have done two things that are cheap, easy,  and have improved my stitching

I no longer use a stitching groover, I use dividers to mark the stitching line. I got a pair from a secondhand tool stall on my local market for £2-50, about $3-50.

I changed from Tandy 'big eye' needles #1195-00 to John James size 2; they are also cheap enough.

[Tannin]

Zuludog, I started with the JJ size 2 although I find myself using the 2 sizes above that more recently (caveat: I mainly stitch thick saddle leathers with 0.8 or 1mm thread, usually Tiger). You can place small orders directly with JJ on-line. Interesting to note that the English company JJ's needles are/were made in China whereas the American company Osbourne's needles are/were made in England (at least they were last time I checked)!

I also started with the 7 ppi pricking iron suggested by Nigel but, again, found it too fine for the work I do, so now far more likely to use 4-6 ppi.  I can't imagine ever wanting to go more than 7 ppi (but some folk do).

[zuludog]

I make mostly knife sheaths from 3 to 3,5mm veg tan. I haven't tried everything or every combination available, but I've now settled on this  - 

I mark the stitching line with dividers

I use a Tandy Craftool stitching chisel with 4mm spacing which is about 6 spi. I polished the prongs

An awl that is a bit smaller than most, about 2mm wide, from https://www.bowstock.co.uk

I've tried Ritza thread, but I don't like it, I prefer 18/3 linen. I have natural from Bowstock, and various colours from other makers - Crawfords, Somac, & Fil au Chinois 

Recently I got Some Seiwa European Leather Stitching Chisels from Goods Japan, They have narrower prongs than Craftool. I've tried them on scrap and they're good, but I have yet to use them in on an actual piece of work. Do not confuse these with Seiwa Diamond Leather Stitching Chisel as they did not get a good review. See Nigel's Pricking Iron Reviews #8 &#9

Yes, I ordered my needles from John James, and noticed they were made in China

I also got an awl blade from them and mounted it in a haft made by a local wood turner. Had to sharpen & polish it myself, which was a bit tedious