Prefered Sewing Methods?

[Bryan M]

Ok I think I see what ya'll er talkin about. I'll go see if I can find some local stuff to work with. If not then I'll need to go online. Or make it.

[Ryan Barto]

I prefer to use diamond stitching chisels to punch the holes and then saddle stitch. I did use a stitching awl to individually punch the holes in the past, but I had a real tough time getting the back of my stitching to stay as straight as the front. The chisels improved my stitching greatly. I have a lot of respect for those who have taken the time to learn to keep their awl straight though, and some day I'll be able to teach myself. For now, I'm able to get the results I like with the chisels.

[kwelna]

I too am a noob and am trying to lean the craft. I will tell you that after stitching 7 belts for 7 fat guys and listening to and heading Katsass' suggestions and critiques, my stitching is WAY better than it was. My only suggestion is to get a good and really SHARP diamond shaped awl ( The tandy awls are way too big, and way,way too dull. I too use a pricking iron to mark my stitches not punch hole through the leather. I am no expert by any streatch of the imagination, but I could not beleive what a difference a good sharp awl made in my work making stitching easier. ANd yes I too need to use pliers to pull my needle through my holes. (Usually only where the thread bulges right at the end of the eye of the needle where teh thread passes through.)

[Mijo]

I prefer to use diamond stitching chisels to punch the holes and then saddle stitch. I did use a stitching awl to individually punch the holes in the past, but I had a real tough time getting the back of my stitching to stay as straight as the front. The chisels improved my stitching greatly. I have a lot of respect for those who have taken the time to learn to keep their awl straight though, and some day I'll be able to teach myself. For now, I'm able to get the results I like with the chisels.

I do the same thing but I use a saddle chisel instead of a diamond chisel. I use this method when hand stitching multiple layers of leather where any one layer is over 10oz. The problem with a diamond chisel is when you punch two layers that will be lined up flesh side to flesh side and sewn together, the diamond patterns are opposite of each other. This causes the stitching to look a little less uniform. Since the saddle chisel is rectangular or slot like in shape, the hole pattern is the same on both sides.

I normally don't punch the leather all the way through with the chisel but it's punched deep enough so that it doesn't take that much force to get the needle through the rest of the way. I still need to use pliers to pull the first needle through though. For thinner layers of leather I use an awl, but I still mark the leather using the same chisel.

[Matt S]

ANd yes I too need to use pliers to pull my needle through my holes. (Usually only where the thread bulges right at the end of the eye of the needle where teh thread passes through.)

I used to have this problem and it is quite common. I think it is because not enough people taper the ends of their threads. If you look at Al Stohlman's stitching book he shows two solutions: tapering the ends of premade unwaxed thread by scraping with a knife and hand rolling thread frim single linen yarns. I started with the first and then moved to the second once i found a source of single strand linen. Now i use nothing else, and no pliers needed. Long tapers also allow you to use very small needles which makes stitching easier and you can make your awl holes smaller. I now use James Joyce no4 harness needles which make those no0 needles Tandy sells look like deck spikes!

[Bryan M]

OK so, I'm going to be making sheaths with multi layers of leather. Welt in the center to keep the knife from pushing through the threads. Contact cement to glue it all together first. How do I make a hole in over a quarter inch thick piece of leather. I'll be using, for the most part, 8/9 thickness leather. I don't see how one of those angled multi tined chisels would do that.

[Matt S]

OK so, I'm going to be making sheaths with multi layers of leather. Welt in the center to keep the knife from pushing through the threads. Contact cement to glue it all together first. How do I make a hole in over a quarter inch thick piece of leather. I'll be using, for the most part, 8/9 thickness leather. I don't see how one of those angled multi tined chisels would do that.

With a diamond harness awl. Not those overpriced masonry nails Tandy sells. Get you a 1-1/2" harness awl, mount it in a handle (buy or make) and sharpen it. Polish too if you have the patience. It'll go through easy.

[kwelna]

I used to have this problem and it is quite common. I think it is because not enough people taper the ends of their threads. If you look at Al Stohlman's stitching book he shows two solutions: tapering the ends of premade unwaxed thread by scraping with a knife and hand rolling thread frim single linen yarns. I started with the first and then moved to the second once i found a source of single strand linen. Now i use nothing else, and no pliers needed. Long tapers also allow you to use very small needles which makes stitching easier and you can make your awl holes smaller. I now use James Joyce no4 harness needles which make those no0 needles Tandy sells look like deck spikes!

I have the stohman book sand i saw this technique, but I do not understand what prevents the cords from snaggining on the hole in the leather and bunching up as you pull the thread through the leather. Dont all the cords of the thread have to pass through the eye so this does not happen?

Edited January 15, 2013 by kwelna

[Matt S]

I have the stohman book sand i saw this technique, but I do not understand what prevents the cords from snaggining on the hole in the leather and bunching up as you pull the thread through the leather. Dont all the cords of the thread have to pass through the eye so this does not happen?

Only one or possibly two cords should be in the eye of the needle, that is what makes pulling your needles through much easier. Then once you have locked each needle you have no more than one diameter of thread behind the eye (and I often end up with less).

If you use untapered threads you are trying to pull through two diameters of thread each time -- and the needles' eyes must be larger too. Your awl holes are designed to be a very tight fit around two diameters of thread once the stitch is pulled tight. With untapered thread you can have up to four diameters of thread in the hole when trying to force both needles through!

The threads stay in place largely with wax. I say wax, but in reality I use coad, a mixture of rosin and beeswax. I know a lot of sources including Stohlman say to use beeswax but coad is definitely the way to go. Whereas beeswax lubricates the linen, the addition of rosin really stickies it up. This helps keep the thread together, helps lock the needle on, and helps the stitches to lock together. Apparently there's also some antirot benefits.

[kwelna]

I made my own coad when I bought a pound of linnen thread. My stitching is getting better, so now it is time to learn this tapering thing. thanks