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I Need To Tell You How Much I Hate The Consew Servo Motor...


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Posted

I have a light Brother automatic - servo ..a Adler with a SERVPRO servo ..and a half dozen machines with clutches. The Brother and Adler servo motors work great.

I decided to convert a couple of other daily machines because they do not run hours straight. On/Off would be a better way to run them, besides who needs the constant noise. My Consew 206RBs can sew about anything ..So, Consew/Consew made sense. Eh-Eh. Everybody hates them.

They don't seem to have a rheostat ..nearly pure ON or OFF. You get a choice of: ON s-l-o-w .. or 'Oh S__', a runaway machine. I can feather the pedal, but my ladies cannot. You cannot get the motor to crawl unless you have the lightest touch or backed off to '3-stitches-per-minute'. I have been walking around bitching for a couple of weeks ..now that I have said it out loud, maybe I can forget it.

More 'boat anchors' for the collection....

Jim

The Servpro and Consew appear to use similar castings ..and maybe the Adler, because it is a very heavy machine, works better.

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I have a Family Sew servo motor that can crawl when I want it to or run with the fastest. It has a multi position rotary switch on the front, making it simple to change the top speed on the fly. I use it on my Cowboy CB4500. I only had to change the pulley to a #614, which is 2.25 inches diameter, to get the range I wanted.

I have to Sew Pro motors on my flat bed machines and love them.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted (edited)

Hi Jim,

I feel your pain, it goes as a runaway train. The German Efka will take care of your problems. If thats a bit over budget; If the motor is digital it probably uses a light switch on the speed control. Here its how a member made a mod for them http://www.swflholst...paper-gradient/

Search the this forum for more stuff about the Chinese digital servo speed control mod. Regardless of brand, if its Chinese and look the same on the outside, its also the same inside. Strange? LOL. :)

Good luck

Tor

I have a light Brother automatic - servo ..a Adler with a SERVPRO servo ..and a half dozen machines with clutches. The Brother and Adler servo motors work great.

I decided to convert a couple of other daily machines because they do not run hours straight. On/Off would be a better way to run them, besides who needs the constant noise. My Consew 206RBs can sew about anything ..So, Consew/Consew made sense. Eh-Eh. Everybody hates them.

They don't seem to have a rheostat ..nearly pure ON or OFF. You get a choice of: ON s-l-o-w .. or 'Oh S__', a runaway machine. I can feather the pedal, but my ladies cannot. You cannot get the motor to crawl unless you have the lightest touch or backed off to '3-stitches-per-minute'. I have been walking around bitching for a couple of weeks ..now that I have said it out loud, maybe I can forget it.

More 'boat anchors' for the collection....

Jim

The Servpro and Consew appear to use similar castings ..and maybe the Adler, because it is a very heavy machine, works better.

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Takk Trox.. That fellow is both smart and patient. I typically take care of problems with an American Wrench. Mine come in 1lb., 2lb and finally 5lb - if the prior two do not handle the problem. Thanks again. Cheers.

Jim

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Posted

I just did the mod to the Consew CS1000 I got on Monday, wow! Still maybe needs a fine tune to get all the top speed outta it, but for now I want slow.

Jeremy

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Posted

You can get a speed reducer for 85.00 from Bob Kovar, its cheaper than a replacement servo. I just ordered one for my patcher as the servo on it was far to fast even on the slowest speed, I could feather it if I was careful but I think the speed reducer will give me a better range of adjustment.

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Posted

Consew sells a variety of servo motors, what model do you have that you dislike? Some of their motors are very, very good.

Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com

  • Contributing Member
Posted

My Consew 206RB5 has a Consew Servo Model CSM550. Absolutely no problems

ferg

Posted

You are welcome Jim, snakker du Norsk?

One of the best solutions to the speed problem ( and alternative to a servo motor) is to use a 3 phase clutch/ or regular AC motor with a frequency converter. This little "magic" box converts 3 phase to single phase current and let you control all parameters on the motor.

Like speed, torque, start and stop time etc. It lets you limit the motors top speed; you can go as slow as you want and still have maximum torque. You can attach a potentiometer (like a pedal) and control it like a servo motor. I have used this solution on several machines, and the speed control is better than on any servo motor you can buy. with this "box" you can use any kind of 3 phase AC motor, the pot meter replace the clutch.

When servo motors is a "new" thing in the sewing machine world, the industrial world has moved away from it and uses mostly this system. They can hook these boxes to their computers and remotely control the motors true the internet. I got a pair of these for free from my brother who works in the electro business. The prices varies from make and capabilities, from 60 $ and up, I know they are cheaper in the US than where I live.

You need one that can handle the ampere of the motor, the price follows the ampere up-wards. So you do not want to use more motor than you need to, three phase motors have more torque than single phase too. A 750 watt will power most harness stitcher's, then hook up three cables and you are ready to go.

Here is what these boxes look like, they are easy to hook up. However you must read the instructions for programming the parameters on it.

If anybody want to know how it works, send me a PM and I can give you a link to a video of my old Adler class 5 with this system. I also uses this kind of box on my skiving and clicking machines who both are tree phase (when I only have single phase current in my work shop). However, only for converting the current, I do not need to control the speed of these.

Thanks

Tor

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Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • 2 years later...
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Posted

I realize this is an old thread, and I'm a newb. But maybe this will help someone else decide. I also have a Consew Servo Model CSM550 and like Ferg no problems. I went to a local Consew dealer to check it out and was not impressed. I could not start into leather at lower rpm settings below 1000. He tried setting it to 600 and 900 rpm for slow control but it wouldn't move. I found later that the trick is to set it to the machine max like 3000 and just use the pedal as if it had a clutch. There must be a pot associated with the pedal control and the knob only caps the max. So the torque with the pedal slightly depressed at 900 rpm is not able to move the needle. But the torque with the same small pedal movement with the rpm set to max is greatly multiplied. I plowed through 3/8 of various quality leathers making French seems slow enough to keep control. This is not an On/Off only pedal as the older ones seemed to be. The interesting thing is that no matter what max sped I set, I could move the needle at the same slow speed regardless. Of course lower RPM max requires lighter fabric. Hope that helps someone.

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