MADMAX22 Report post Posted August 22, 2008 Hey guys was looking at getting a new mallot and use that 50% off thing at tandy (single item no machines/leather/giftcards). Figured I would try one of those al stohlman guys that look really comfy. Now I havnt used any of those synthetic heads before just the rawhide one. For general purpose use what weight 1lb, 2lb or 3lb. I was thinking probably 1lb would do the trick but not sure. Also there are two different types. The one with the head that is shaped like my mallot that has the flat side down that you use to hit the tool with and the other style that sticks straight out so you hit on the rounded side. Which do you guys prefer and which is better for tooling and such. Thanks for any input. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aaron Report post Posted August 22, 2008 Max I have that Stohlman mallet you are talking about from Tandy. It gave me a couple of good years until I found something I like much better. I recently was in another store and the folks there let me use a 1lb Barry King Tapered Maul. I had seen mauls before, but was reluctant because it did not look user friendly to me. I figured one wack and the Maul would glance off to the side with god knows what kind of results. I was wrong. I loved it and fell right in with it. I did not need to "get used to it" or learn anything new to impliment it beautifuly. Like I said, I have nothing at all against the Stohlman Mallet, I still have mine and am sure I will use it more on certain things... but I am now a huge fan of the Maul. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted August 22, 2008 Thanks, I was thinking about trying out the maul but like was worried about the glancing off to one side thing if I didnt line it up right. I may just give it a try. I think Ill stick with what Tandy has as my girlfriend has made it a goal of hers to not buy anything at normal price from them. Shes really good like that and keeps a list of everything I need/want then compares internet and paphlet prices and stuff. Ill keep the barry king version in mind though incase I run across a good deal on one. Thanks for the input. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted August 22, 2008 15+ years with a mallet. went to the ASB poly mallet and hated it. Kept slipping off the tool. Went with a poly maul(B. King as a matter of fact) and loved it from the first whack. NO learning curve- it's an extension of your hand- no slipping either. More natural feel too. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wintermte Report post Posted August 23, 2008 15+ years with a mallet. went to the ASB poly mallet and hated it. Kept slipping off the tool. Went with a poly maul(B. King as a matter of fact) and loved it from the first whack.NO learning curve- it's an extension of your hand- no slipping either. More natural feel too. pete Not to ask a stupid newbie question, but I'm going to anyway. I'm using the cheap wooden hammer that comes with all the beginner kits. What is the advantage of using the rawhide mallets or the poly mallets over the cheap wooden ones? Thanks Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted August 23, 2008 Don King and alot of the other tool makers use to just cut the end of thier tools off square and leave them that way. The Tandy stamps along with some others taper the top edge of thier tools off slightly. With the rawhide mauls this is fine but the reason these good tool makers left the end flat was to help prevent the poly mauls from glancing off if the blow was not centered precisely. If you are having trouble with tapered topped tools glancing off using a poly maul just take the tops of your tools to a belt sander and square the tops off which leaves a sharp edge for the maul to get traction on. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted August 23, 2008 Not to ask a stupid newbie question, but I'm going to anyway. I'm using the cheap wooden hammer that comes with all the beginner kits. What is the advantage of using the rawhide mallets or the poly mallets over the cheap wooden ones? Thanks Dan I have Barry's tapered and straight mauls, and wouldn't trade them for the world. Absolutely the best IMO. The wooden mallet that comes with the beginner kits is just that, beginner. It's not nearly heavy enough, and I don't think comfortable enough. If you grab a Barry King maul and use it, I guarantee you'll never want to use anything else. I also have a 2 lb Al Stohlman maul that has the rawhide face and a poly backup and I use it for Basket stamping and strap cutting, etc... Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickybobby Report post Posted August 23, 2008 I have used Barry King 16oz and 24oz for tooling and they are very comfortable. I do sometimes have a glancing blow and send a tool across the shop it is because I am concentrating on lining up BW. I will try Gregs suggestion on squaring off the top, Thanks Greg We also have a 2lb rawhide maul at the cutting bench for cutting strap ends, punching holes, ect. 2 weeks ago I was cutting a strap end and the maul glanced off and hit my hand, I have a very sore joint in my left thumb that is very slow healing. Some of the tools in our shop are over 40 years old and have some wear. I have sharpened them but I need to "square off" the tops as suggested. Watch out for the heavy mauls! They can "bite you" I have not tried the Barry king heavier mauls yet, but I am very happy and comfortable with the lighter ones! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted August 23, 2008 Very good info all, thanks for all the input Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted August 23, 2008 To throw another maker of good mauls into the mix - Wayne Jueschke. I have Barry's in 12 oz and 16 oz for tooling and a heavier one for punches, rivets, and end cutters. They are pretty neutral weighted. Good for rocking motion repetitive stamps like bevelers and backgrounders and small foot print stamps. Wayne's mauls have different head material, and are more heavy at the head end for more of a deadfall effect. Good for basket and geometrics for me. Wayne's handles also are a little more tapered than Barry's under my little finger. I have had it kicked out of place a few times, and it is less fatigueing for me to grab the shape of Wayne's handle and hit with. On Barry's I use more of a rocking wrist action, ring the handle between my thumb and first two fingers, relax the 3rd and 4th fingers, and let the heel kind of flop, and that works well with Barry's handle shape. It is kind of a luxury to match the maul to the stamp type, but worth it for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GampasShop Report post Posted August 23, 2008 I had used the original leather mallet that came in my kit from the mid 70's for a long time. Actually until I found this website and everyone was talking about using a maul. I was worried about a glancing blow, so I just had to try one out. So off to the woodshop I went and ended up with and While they didnt end up being near heavy enough the first one was turned out of Osage Orange and weighs 8 oz., the second was turned out of Black Locust and only weighs 10 oz. When I tried them on the next project I did, they worked great and like was said they are just an extension of your hand. I was going to drill out the end and add some lead shot to make them heavier, but ended up buying the ASB 1 lb. maul and have been using it ever since. I will be getting a 2 lb. this fall as I have now started using basketweave stamps and you really got to give them a solid wack. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRLeather2 Report post Posted August 24, 2008 I made my own mauls which I have used for a number of years, I have 3 different weights..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wintermte Report post Posted August 24, 2008 I made my own mauls which I have used for a number of years, I have 3 different weights..... What are the weights on those made out of? They look like oversized hockey pucks. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRLeather2 Report post Posted August 24, 2008 1, 2 and 3 pounds. I made them out of a feed roller from some kind of machine, not sure what type of machine as I never actually saw it...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Sheldon Report post Posted August 24, 2008 I use a maul for tooling, I use a rawhide mallet for hole punches, belt end cutters, etc. I find the maul gives better results with tooling because I need a controlled, yet forceful hit. For punches, I prefer the mallet, because I need a strong, high-velocity hit without cutting through my bench. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted September 2, 2008 I made my own mauls which I have used for a number of years, I have 3 different weights..... That is great. Looks really good, I think I may have to try something out like that. I ended up getting a hammer (Al stoehlman) but just because the deal was right, basically a little under half price for it. Now I wanna try out one of those guys so gonna have to come up with something. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites