First Stab At A Lined Belt

[billymac814]

The belt looks good. I'm thinking your folded part is longer than it needs to be but that doesn't matter a whole lot. I tend to agree with you not putting on a keeper with a center bar buckle, I don't think they look right with a keeper right after it and they really aren't needed.

Another trick to get rid of some of the wax is to pull the waxed thread through a piece of a paper bag, just press the thread between two fingers in between the paper bag and pull through, the friction will melt some wax off and the bag will absorb it.

You should be good with about a 5 strand linen thread, you could get away with thicker too depending on the look you want.

[LederRudi]

The belt looks good. I'm thinking your folded part is longer than it needs to be but that doesn't matter a whole lot. I tend to agree with you not putting on a keeper with a center bar buckle, I don't think they look right with a keeper right after it and they really aren't needed.

Another trick to get rid of some of the wax is to pull the waxed thread through a piece of a paper bag, just press the thread between two fingers in between the paper bag and pull through, the friction will melt some wax off and the bag will absorb it.

You should be good with about a 5 strand linen thread, you could get away with thicker too depending on the look you want.

Thank you for your kind comment and advise,

Rudi

[DoubleC]

I think it's really pretty Rudi. Cheryl

[LederRudi]

Thank you, Cheryl!

Rudi

[raysouth]

Meine Herr Rudi, it looks great. Quality workmanship is apparent.

God Bless.

Ray

[LederRudi]

Danke for the compliment, Ray!

Rudi

[c2369zulu]

I really like it. It looks great!

Funny, I just made a belt similar with the large veiner and mule foot, but un-dyed and unlined with only a mink oil finish. I wish I had a splitter to thin out the end at the buckle fold, but they are expensive. I have tried practicing with a skiver, but the results weren't that good for me to risk using it on a belt. I used large line 24 snaps to secure and the Nickel Seaton Center Bar buckle Will Ghormley puts on a lot of his belts. I also use a metal square for alignment of stamps as Will Ghormley illustrates in the H.O.G. Rig Pattern Notes and as you mentioned. The metal square I picked up at Lowes has a thicker 1.5" side and a 1" side. I use the 1" side and mark on each side of it. I generally run the veiner out a few stamps and come back with the mule foot. If I cover the mark with the very end of the toe of the veiner as I go, it usually leaves just enough room for the mule foot between..............Rory

[LederRudi]

Funny, I just made a belt similar with the large veiner and mule foot, but un-dyed and unlined with only a mink oil finish. I wish I had a splitter to thin out the end at the buckle fold, but they are expensive. I have tried practicing with a skiver, but the results weren't that good for me to risk using it on a belt. I used large line 24 snaps to secure and the Nickel Seaton Center Bar buckle Will Ghormley puts on a lot of his belts. I also use a metal square for alignment of stamps as Will Ghormley illustrates in the H.O.G. Rig Pattern Notes and as you mentioned. The metal square I picked up at Lowes has a thicker 1.5" side and a 1" side. I use the 1" side and mark on each side of it. I generally run the veiner out a few stamps and come back with the mule foot. If I cover the mark with the very end of the toe of the veiner as I go, it usually leaves just enough room for the mule foot between..............Rory

Thank you for the input, Rory!

Last summer I made an unlined belt for myself and also gave it only a coat of oil. The flesh-side absorbed a lot of sweat when I wore the belt in Turkey. Streaks of salt then showed on the grain-side as well. thus I learned that sealing of the inner side is indispensable.

I didn't do any skyving on the belt I'm showing here. I don't like the idea of weakening the leather where most of the stress is to be expected.

Since I thought of attaching a pouch that contains some essential items (money, credit cards, passport...) I wanted to be on the safe side and preferred screws over snaps.

Leatherwork isn't very popular on our side of the pond, therefore I'm pretty dependent on Tandy UK when it comes to hardware or tools. Any import from the US would about double costs.

That's a good idea to use the thicknesses of a square! Very simple - and I hadn't thought of it!

Rudi

[bearachc]

I'm typically not a huge fan of tooled belts... But now I'm thinking I just haven't seen a tooling pattern I liked, this one looks really cool and not overly busy. Might have to rip that little design off fom you

[LederRudi]

I'm typically not a huge fan of tooled belts... But now I'm thinking I just haven't seen a tooling pattern I liked, this one looks really cool and not overly busy. Might have to rip that little design off fom you

I like this simple design too. I didn't invent it though. I've seen some variant or other posted here. And I've already ripped it off from Will Ghormley (http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html).