Saddle Stitch Is This Correct ?

[DavidL]

I prefer Ian atkinson's method.

The different ways I have tried that worked for me.

right hand needle enters:

on top of the hole.

on top of the hole casting the thread away from you. django's method.

on the bottom of the hole.

on the bottom of the hole casting the thread towards you. Ian atkinson's method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zTOqJCWbfY&spfreload=10.

[DavidL]

Stitching on thin leathers I always go without casting The backside will never be angled like the front when not casting. At best the backside stitching will have a 15 degree angle. With very thin threads there could be a change (.52mm for 6 SPI)

On leathers that are 2 - 2.5 ounces I do not cast the thread as the front stitches become flat.

Leathers that are 2.5 ounces and up there is no benefit in my opinion not to cast the thread, some do not cast the thread, so its a matter of preference.

For me personally when I cast the thread on 2.5- 3 ounces and up the front side does not differ drastically than not casting the thread (there is a difference on some leathers but a small one), the difference is so small if I was to stitch one sample with casting and one without it would be hard to guess. On the backside of the casted stitching the stitches are angled and tidy.

Edited April 17, 2015 by DavidL

[King's X]

I figure I would throw my .02 cents on hand stitching. Here is a video that I saw back when Serge created it. Check it out

[unicornleather]

Video is not a good example of a professional hand stitcher.

You use the awl as you stitch, therefore holding the awl in right hand and one needle, the other needle in the left hand.

He is also looping the thread over itself the wrong way, you loop forwards not backwards. You also pull up with the left hand and down with the right as you pull the threads tight.

You simply wouldn't have the time to stop, pre awl, then fiddle around with needles and no awl if you have to make a few bridles or harness each week.

[DavidL]

One thing that helped more than I though it would is sharpening the awl tip to a fatter profile, not a pointy tip. When sharpened correctly the rounded awl tip will penetrate just as well, only its fits perfectly in the pricking hole marks.

Search on youtube leathertoolz, he has a video on the subject.

[MonicaJacobson]

I had never watched any of Ian's videos until yesterday. I watched Nigel's videos, and while they were extremely helpful, I was still getting some inconsistent stitching. Ian's method really helped, and with a combination of that and paying closer attention to each stitch, I've been getting very consistent results today. I agree with Unicorn that it's probably too fiddly for a harness maker. But in my (comparably limited) experience, it's easier to get consistent stitching with thicker leathers. Ian's method seems like it will work really well for smaller goods like wallets.

[thefanninator]

Video is not a good example of a professional hand stitcher.

You use the awl as you stitch, therefore holding the awl in right hand and one needle, the other needle in the left hand.

He is also looping the thread over itself the wrong way, you loop forwards not backwards. You also pull up with the left hand and down with the right as you pull the threads tight.

You simply wouldn't have the time to stop, pre awl, then fiddle around with needles and no awl if you have to make a few bridles or harness each week.

I agree.

[unicornleather]

You'll see the difference in the stitching, stitching the saddler's way you'll get slanted stitching favoured by traditionalists such as this example

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now compare this to the methods used in the video above

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Can you see the slant on the stitches in the first one?

It's not just that It looks neat it's functional too as it locks the threads together better than in the second one, it's the standard and accepted way in the trade whether you are a saddler, harness maker, collar maker, leathergoods or footwear trades person.

[unicornleather]

Hi yes I do see what you mean. Although I would assume that the size thread and size of holes may also influence that.

Anyway the slant in the first photo is what I get with Nigel's method. Only thing that gives me grief is the back side (leading needle side) for some reason. He achieves this look on both sides.! When I can consistently do that, I will be very content.!

I am really enjoying this thread and the insights being provided by more experienced artisans. !

Thanx

Hello Sticks,

the technique will give you the slant no matter what thread, size of awl, hole or needle you use.

The first photo is a handmade belt I happened to photo, my belt to be precise, it was already a year old when I photo'd it so a little worn but good enough to show the slant of the thread.

Practice will give you a good stitch on the back as well as the front, try to get in to a rhythm and don't stop.

When you get going, you should be able to achieve one stitch every 5-7 seconds

Edited April 19, 2015 by unicornleather

[grmnsplx]

Hi guys,

right straight to the point.. Can anyone explain the difference between the two obviously different techniques showcased here.?? Nigel inserts the SECOND needle IN FRONT (LOWER PART OF THE HOLE) of the first thread, while Django inserts at the needle BEHIND (as farthest away from himself)..I seem to be able to achieve more slant using Nigel's approach , however the back side can be messy. Any insights pls. Practice is key but I guess one wants to be practising the correct way.

I see no difference in the methods. Left needle first, right needle goes over, then thread on the left is cast over the needle.

Edited April 19, 2015 by grmnsplx