Hole Punching (Made Easy?)

[blacksands36]

Hi Everyone,

I am interested in finding out the easiest way to hole punch for hand sewing (messenger, backpack) bags.

I'd like to purchase a sewing machine that can potentially use two needles (1/4" gauge - better yet, multiple gauges) and can sew heavy leather and thickness. Not too much to ask right?

I've been looking at several different machines (techsew, consew etc.) but honestly - spending a small fortune on a machine to then find out it's not going to do what I want is not something I'd like to do (hence asking the experts)!

So, yes ultimately I will sew with machine (and it's got to be a workhorse) but right now, I'd like very much to automate hole punching. Uniform holes is key and one reason why I don't want to do it manually if I can help it.

Thoughts?

Lisa

P.S. If the machine can handle heavy threads to sew those backpack thickness leathers - it's a bonus. Plus, if you have something for sale - OR could point me in the right direction as far as who to deal/work with on purchasing one...awesome!

Thank you!!!

[Bob Blea]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

I don't have a sewing machine myself (yet) but what I'm thinking about getting is a Tippman Boss. It's manually driven but can sew heavy leather and doesn't cost as much as a motorized machine. However, I do hand sew on occasion and I just use a very sharp awl and a stiching wheel to lay out the holes. I can make them pretty uniform that way, but if I wanted the spacing more uniform I would get a pricking iron, which can mark holes in a row with all the same spacing between them. You still need to finish each hole with an awl but they will be spaced evenly, and it's a lot cheaper than any machine. Just takes more time.

Bob

[blacksands36]

Thank you Bob,

I do have a leather pricking iron - and rotary wheels to mark them: however, you're right when it takes time and at times I can't keep them very straight. Plus the wheel doesn't mark the leather as well as I would like and the iron then doesn't line up exactly (yes I'm using the same size for both). I just figure that it'd be easier to guide the leather through a machine and let the machine do the work with pre-punching the holes. The double needle (or two needle) would be a nice to have when doing decorative sewing lines for looks in addition to sewing it together.

Would love to hear from those machine experts if they'd be willing to chime in.

Lisa

[Matt S]

Lisa, I know nothing about sewing machines but a little about hand stitching. There are many ways to improve the speed and quality of our work if you are interested. First I would say to use the pricking iron only, not a combination of the wheel and the iron. As you say, they do not always quite match. If you could provide more details (pictures would be great) on your issues with sewing/stitching I'm sure the resident experts will be more than happy to help. Hand sewing can be quite fast -- I've clocked myself doing better than 3 stitches per minute at 10SPI. No idea if this is 'good', but seems like it's faster than a lot on here are achieving. Not as fast as a good machinist, but then the investment cost is much lower

[medsar]

have you tried running a groove using a stitching groover to mark the stitch line and using a stitching chisel (those diamond shaped 4-6 prong chisels)? I have found those to give a very consistent stitch length and consistent stitch margin.

By '1/4" gauge needle' do you mean a 1/4" hole???

[Dwight]

My first suggestion would be to get a Tippmann Boss, . . . I have one, . . . it sews a lock stitch, . . . not the same as two needles and the saddle stitch.

On the other hand, . . . if money is tight, . . . a stitch wheel and a $49.99 drill press from Harbor freight will do you a real good job.

Do not turn it on, . . . just chuck up the needle, . . . lay your work on a board with a hole in it, . . . and use the strength of the press as well as the fact that the needle holes will be perfectly perpindicular.

If you want to get real sassy about it, . . . don't put the hole in the board and use a hard wood like oak. That way only the tip will go through, . . . you can then turn it over, . . . re punch the other way, . . . and it will be darn near impossible to tell one side from the other after you saddle stitch it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[blacksands36]

Thank you everyone,

Some great ideas for sure. I think I like the idea of a Tippmann Boss.

I don't like using a groover because they always wind up going slightly askew on me (and I like straight lines)...and I love the idea of foregoing the stitching wheel and just using the chisel.

As far as the two needle goes, it allows for two stitches side by side (thus in unison and uniformity) and the gauge is supposed to be the distance between the two (quarter inch, half inch etc.)

I am looking at the drill presses so that's an option.

I appreciate all your responses thus far!

Enjoy )

Lisa