How Do You Transfer Tooling Images?

[Murf]

There is probably already a thread on this but i had no luck searching it.

Currently i am transferring my images onto the leather with a modeling stylus the image on top, then Grey/white transfer paper (Depending on the dye or antique) onto cased leather rubbed with a glass burnisher.

as you can guess i have had issues with the white not showing up well (in some cases its clear as day) and issues with the gray getting embedded into the leather then i have to dye or antique to cover it up.

I was hoping to get a collective on how the rest of you transfer your carving image. I know really experienced toolers freehand with their swivel knife but personally im just not that confident in my skills at this point.

Thanks, Murf

[Dwight]

I use only clear or "almost clear" plastic for my images.

I place that image on the wetted leather, . . . it may not have dried to the point it would be called "cased", . . . but you most surely can call it wet.

I use the pointed end of a stylus tool that rubbs the plastic but doesn't cut it, . . . transferring a drawn image to the wetted leather. I use those impressions in the wetted leather as my pattern, . . . and the image can be used over, over, and over again.

I got a really good deal some years back on some 8 1/2 x 11 transparency sheets used for computer printing. I'm still working on that box, . . . but almost any thin, clear plastic will work.

AND, . . . if the leather is WET instead of just CASED, . . . the plastic will lay down and not move on the leather while you are tracing your image onto the leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

[lightingale]

I scan my sketches into the computer and print out a template. I cut the template to fit to the edge of the leather, and hold or tape it down. I draw over it with a stylus. The leather is cased so the lines take on a little burnish and are easy to see. I can flip up the paper to see if I missed any lines.

Once my template gets a bit ratty from use, I print out a new one.

[Cyberthrasher]

tracing paper backed with packing tape. You'll actually find that MOST don't freehand. At the very least, there's usually a transferred guideline of some kind.

There actually is another thread with LOTS of options: "Alternatives to Tandy tracing film"

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34118

I think what you may be having issues with is that it sounds like you're trying to do a "carbon copy" type transfer. If the leather is wet, then when you go over your design with a stylus, you'll have an imprinted line to follow - no worrying about the color.

[SeekingPerfection]

are you trying to transfer the colors onto the leather? That typically comes later in the process (after tooling). You don't really want any color's bleeding onto your leather; which is part of the reason for the packing tape. All you want to do is trace the image at this point. If I read your OP wrong simply disregard.

[coop]

I have been using Saral (grey) non-wax on dry leather to transfer my designs with the stylus. You can use the same sheet three or four times and once it is cut I go over it with a large red eraser and it removes any traces that are left.

[Cyberthrasher]

once it is cut I go over it with a large red eraser and it removes any traces that are left.

Isn't that an unnecessary step when considering all the other transfer methods available (and risky if you happen to not get it all off)?

On a similar note, I see a lot of people who try to just get the artwork directly on the leather without tracing it out first. Some people even do it in such a way that they NEVER acquaint themselves with the design before cutting it. I want people to think of the tracing (to get it onto the transfer sheet) as ONE MORE step in getting familiar with the design and HOW it should be cut/tooled. Each and every time you go over a piece of artwork, you should be thinking ahead of time about how you will cut and tool it. So, by drawing, tracing, then transferring - you've now acquainted yourself with all the lines 3 times. If you didn't draw it from scratch, you can see where this is even more vital to the successful outcome of the work because you'll only have 2 times to get familiar with it. Now, if you use a carbon copy method (such as Saral paper), then you're only going over the design ONE time before tooling it. Think of all the times you've gotten mad about a piece and redid it to realize that you were better acquainted with the design now and could pull it off better. This is the same exact concept, except you're not wasting any material by ensuring that you're familiar with your work before you ever take knife to leather.

[Murf]

Isn't that an unnecessary step when considering all the other transfer methods available (and risky if you happen to not get it all off)?

On a similar note, I see a lot of people who try to just get the artwork directly on the leather without tracing it out first. Some people even do it in such a way that they NEVER acquaint themselves with the design before cutting it. I want people to think of the tracing (to get it onto the transfer sheet) as ONE MORE step in getting familiar with the design and HOW it should be cut/tooled. Each and every time you go over a piece of artwork, you should be thinking ahead of time about how you will cut and tool it. So, by drawing, tracing, then transferring - you've now acquainted yourself with all the lines 3 times. If you didn't draw it from scratch, you can see where this is even more vital to the successful outcome of the work because you'll only have 2 times to get familiar with it. Now, if you use a carbon copy method (such as Saral paper), then you're only going over the design ONE time before tooling it. Think of all the times you've gotten mad about a piece and redid it to realize that you were better acquainted with the design now and could pull it off better. This is the same exact concept, except you're not wasting any material by ensuring that you're familiar with your work before you ever take knife to leather.

Im not familiar with the method mentioned, even though im looking for a new method i look at it like this, Drawing = 1st draft, I then light box my drawing and go over it with a sharpie fine point = revision 1, Then the transfer = revision 2, and then the knife = revision 3. this gives me alot of experience with the image and it give me a chance to space things and think about the carving and tooling each time i go over it. "will that bevel crash with another", or "ill gap this out more so the back grounding has more area".

Question @ cyberthrasher- You mentioned backing your images with packing tape then using a stylus. How wet is you leather when you do this? im reinventing how i transfer and im struggling with the image not enduring the carving session.

[Cyberthrasher]

Question @ cyberthrasher- You mentioned backing your images with packing tape then using a stylus. How wet is you leather when you do this? im reinventing how i transfer and im struggling with the image not enduring the carving session.

Simple answer - cased. But, even a little bit of dampness from moistening with a sponge will give you a good enough impression to last throughout your tooling. This is the way we've all been taught to transfer our images and it works. The ONLY reason I back my design with packing tape is because I'm too cheap to buy Tandy's expensive and unnecessary transfer film. I spend $2 on a big pad of tracing paper and just put a piece of packing tape on the back. The packing tape keeps me from poking through, makes it last a lot longer (if I need to use it more than once), and keeps the moisture from distorting it. By doing it this way, the image is transferred by making a LIGHT impression in the leather, which translates to nothing to rub off.

Oh yeah, and the "Saral paper" is basically what it sounds like you're using - colored transfer paper that works just like carbon paper.

Edited June 26, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[coop]

I haven't had any ill effects from the Saral as of yet (nothing embedded in the leather). I was reccomended it by a buddy that makes saddles and before I was referred to this site by Cyber and learned about the duct tape method. I draw everything I do and then trace it onto tracing paper to clean it up. I just figured it was a given that the person would be familar and able to draw the design, at least practice it on scrap first?? If I have issues with the Saral I will convert to the duct tape myself.

[Cyberthrasher]

I'm not sure if duct tape would be the best. Might absorb moisture or just make a sticky mess. I use clear packing tape. I actually have some 3M stuff from Wal-Mart that SUCKS for it's intended purpose and I would never trust it for mailing a package. But, it's so low on adhesive it works pretty well for backing my designs, as well as securing the back of my lighter weight work so it doesn't deform from tooling.

You'd be amazed at how many people aren't familiar with their work before they attempt to put it on leather. It really shows when they put it out there too.

Edited June 26, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[highnoonhunter]

I've been using clear packing tape on both sides of my patterns I want to transfer and it seems to do really well. It wouldn't last for lots of use, but i can always print off another one and cover it with tape it one wears out. But most of mine lately has been "one-off" stuff anyway, so the packing tape does the job.

[BDAZ]

Here's a technique I came up with yesterday when I was trying to transfer a design. usually use Stapes "Vellum" paper which is translucent, tough and goes through my laser printer with no problems. I couldn't find it and was in a rush so I printed out the design in reverse, taped it to leather then saturated a piece of paper towel with acetone and rubbed the surface. TaDa!

The test example is on a piece of scrap and each character is 1" high. The actual piexe is double sized. The lines were completely eliminated by the cuts and beveling.

Cya!

Bob