coop

I have been using Resolene 50/50 for some time with no issues. I finished a guitar strap for a friend and the finish started to lift and peel of in certian areas of the strap. I peeled the finish that was lifting and cleaned the strap with alcohol and refinished and let cure. Now the finish is still lifting off of strap. I am thinking that I got wax on the strap when I burnished the edges and that could be causing the finish to lift. Any suggestions for a fix to this? I was thinking of removing the finish and sealing with a wax??

Since this was bumped up... Here is a guitar strap that I DYED with Angelus pink dye. It is labeled as a sude dye but works great on the smooth side also. Just make sure that you stir well, it has small white beads in it. Very nice result, Angelus is my favorite dyes and acrylics. Top of the line...

I am working on a celtic guitar strap for a local music store, I think I will try to get an effect similar to that. Reduce some white Angelus acrylic and airbrush on then sponge the rest on.

Wow! I want one

I have used antique dyes and been successful at creating nice vintage/antique looks. Anyone have any tips on how I can get the effects in this photo? Thanks for any help.

I was doing when I first started these but slipped and cut past the hole and ended up scraping the first one. Thanks!

I used a 5/16 bit in my drill press and chisel. I just set my drill press up for sanding and burnishing and it really made things easier. I also started using Resolene 50/50 on the recommendation from members here and the finish is much better than what I was using before on my guitar straps. I use the stamps for the letters which I normally don't do anyone but I didn't know how the forming would distort the tooling. Thanks for all the kind words.

Thank you!

I made a couple holsters for a friend. Would like to improve my stitching but that will come in time I guess.

Very nice!

Thanks, I know some have asked about pink dye before. I used the Angelus pink dye from turtle feathers. It is a suede dye but works great on the smooth side also.

Here is a picture of a pink strap I just made for a bass player in Tenn.

I've been using the Super Sheen with no issues so far and use light coats. I have wondered about the Resolene but I had heard some horror stories about that also. I'm thinking it was just some really dried out leather and I haven't been in the habit of oiling my leather before finishing. The cracks were deep and not just in the finish. Lesson learned on keeping the leather hydrated.

I will start oiling the leather before dying. I am also using a better quality leather now also. Once the finish is applied how can you keep the leather conditioned?

I have been using fiebings dyes and eco flo super sheen as the finish. I haven't had any issues with it till now, but I have a strap that I finished last month and went to punch the holes today, when the finish started cracking on it. It continued to crack throughout the whole strap. What advice is there too prevent this the strap is 6-7 oz. I did not oil this one before dying could that have been the cause? I don't want to put out anymore straps till I figure out the cause. Most straps I work and flex the leather throughout the process.

Thank you, I will get with him.

I have made a few holsters for the LCP Crimson Tide and I have a friend that has requested a two holsters for his 1911 kimber custom II. I know there are different versions of this gun and I have searched the form for info on a gun mold for this. My question is what mold do I need to make these holsters and what do I need to look for like rails etc. that might on be included on the mold. If I had the gun it would be no issue but he is in CA and I'm in VA. Thanks for your help.

Do you happen to have a ruger lcp 380 crimson trace mold?

Thank you!

I want to do a few mask and have searched all over but cannot seem to locate a source for face forms. Any have a llink for those?

I was wondering the same about getting that effect and I see that some of you can get clean lines. Do most people use the blocking technique? I have a friend that just finished a new album and I wanted to do his artwork on leather and frame it for him. Any pointers on getting this effect? I hope it pretains to the OP.

You can print out the PDF file in the OP and the templets are the correct dimensions.

So far hasn't turned out too bad, I was able to keep the end of the flames from lifting or folding over but will def let the tooling create the ends next time.

I just used the B 701 and the A 104 for the tooling this time. I will invest in some more tools on the next project. I see how the depth of the cut relates to the image and will incorperate that in on the next design. Over all it has not turned out to bad for my firt tooling job I guess. Right side up.

No doubt, that totally makes sense. I understand that concept, I draw a lot of black and grey art. I had read so much on designs not being carved deep enough and I have a heavy hand, (must be the bass playing) that I was focused on that aspect and didn't even think about that. I will just have to use the tools and try to shade heavy to light, and maybe even reverse the bevel it towards the end of the flames. Might even texture the flames this time. I have several cut out on scrap so I'll see what I can come up with. Thank's for the link, just signed up.