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Posted

I think it's GORGEOUS but ... If it's "pure" copper, you have to have something to avoid ...

1) the green oxidation touch any of your projects. So, even this "patina" is gorgeous as art by itself, the dust (or "paste" in case get in contact with water) can damage or even destroy some finishing of a leather / fabric.

2) it's a much more "folding" metal than iron / steel, so, depending the weight you put in one side or other, or bangs, or whatever will ending creating problems in the future.

And YES, IMHO, if all tables have the back (and bottom) brace(s), it's for a reason.
I suggest for you don't discover the worse way, is already put one before finish it.

Hope it can help.

BB

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Posted (edited)

Japanese cut out table.

This machine came with regular Singer flatbed table, and that will not work for a cylinder bed. These old cast iron stands are very sturdy, I just cut off one of the table tabs and made a new table top. The top are made of two 3/4" (= 1 1/2") pine "hobby plates" glued together. I have seen the Japanese used this style of tables on their machine. Three coats of white oil paint on the top and Hamerite on the stand. Functional and simple solution of what I had on hand. If the table had "Adler" on it, I would have used a little gold paint on the letters too :)

Anyway, the table became very stable and the white color saves lighting. Just to make it simple.

Tor

post-10237-0-52828000-1427156226_thumb.j

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

Nicely done Tor! Interesting variation on the more common U-shaped table tops. The photo reminds me of scenes from "Dexter" (a TV series where the walls often get covered in plastic to contain blood spatter instead of paint). This solutions certainly looks like it won't fold flat when it gets bumped. Now you got me contemplating using an old cast iron base for my Pfaff 335 table. Thanks for posting this project!

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

Links: Videos 

Posted

Thanks Uwe, I assure you that the plastic is the only resemblance between Dexter and myself, our hobbies are quite different :) This machine is going to be "bumped" (moved) out of my house ready to sew and I know it will stand for it. Its sold. I was inspired by this man on youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/DANGUMAN I been watching his videos for quite some time, without understanding a word of what he says. Perhaps he is Korean and not Japanese, that does not matter. He has a lot of nice ideas and machines. The pictures are telling the story anyway.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted (edited)

Japanese cut out table.

This machine came with regular Singer flatbed table, and that will not work for a cylinder bed. These old cast iron stands are very sturdy, I just cut off one of the table tabs and made a new table top. The top are made of two 3/4" (= 1 1/2") pine "hobby plates" glued together. I have seen the Japanese used this style of tables on their machine. Three coats of white oil paint on the top and Hamerite on the stand. Functional and simple solution of what I had on hand. If the table had "Adler" on it, I would have used a little gold paint on the letters too :)

Anyway, the table became very stable and the white color saves lighting. Just to make it simple.

Tor

Oh man - TROX - you really have cut this nice Singer stand? :bawling: I had a bunch of similary ones but really would like to have one or two with SINGER logos like yours. These old cast iron stands are great. I´m using 1 + 1/2 for my machien setup.

BTW - you have sold the 105? May I ask how much you got for it?

The Danguman has realy cool accessories - have you noticed his patcher machine setup? Check his website:

http://www.danguman.com

Unfortunately my Japanese is ruted

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

Thanks for the link to Danguman, really interesting ideas and machines.

.Did you happen to see this video from him?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lyTRB0XHU

Looks like he set that cylinder arm machine up to sew/pulse one stitch at a time, or is that option available on some machines. I'm impressed..

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Posted (edited)

I think it could be something like the MC-SCR system that Sailrite sells - maybe.

Not sure if he (Danguman) is using an NPS but you can achieve this one stitch at a time sewing with a servo motor + speed reducer as well.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

Oh man - TROX - you really have cut this nice Singer stand? :bawling: I had a bunch of similary ones but really would like to have one or two with SINGER logos like yours. These old cast iron stands are great. I´m using 1 + 1/2 for my machien setup.

BTW - you have sold the 105? May I ask how much you got for it?

The Danguman has realy cool accessories - have you noticed his patcher machine setup? Check his website:

http://www.danguman.com

Unfortunately my Japanese is ruted

Hi, its a bit late for changing it for another now :) I am not sure which one you refer to? he has three stands on the top and some other kind of stands in the bottom of his page. My Japanese is not existent, if there are some other pages I would not know how to navigate to them.

The 105 is not out of the door yet, but I am selling it ttogetherwith a Pfaff 491 post/ Efka variostop machine. The 105 has been served, all bad screws/ parts changed. New DA hook that I paid 350 Euro for, a new 4 pole 650 Watt clutch motor and new speed reducer. The Pfaff has some new part too and been converted for single phase current (with a frequency converter). I will tell you the price after is picked up, I do not make any profit on this deal. :bawling:

However, I can not use all my machines and when somebody want to start with leather work here; I feel obligated to help out.

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the link to Danguman, really interesting ideas and machines.

.Did you happen to see this video from him?

Looks like he set that cylinder arm machine up to sew/pulse one stitch at a time, or is that option available on some machines. I'm impressed..

I think this is a type of gear servo motor, it has no needle position. Dealers in the USA also sold something similar, they have a inbuilt gear speed reduction (I think the gears are made of plastic, thought). You will achieve this with a normal servo and reducer too, to echo Constabulary (why do everybody have these long difficult names, do you have anything shorter Constabulary? like Con or CY) :)

Tor

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted (edited)

The Danguman has realy cool accessories - have you noticed his patcher machine setup? Check his website:

http://www.danguman.com

That's similar to what I ended up doing with my 441 clone. I needed to fit it into a smaller space than the original table would allow so after cutting the original table in two and seeing the awful junk it was made of (pressure bonded scraps of ply with huge voids in it) I chucked it and used laminated MDF from an office desk.

Here's the cut edge of the original table showing the junk it's made of:

post-13283-0-14162900-1427242295_thumb.j

Here's what I originally did with the half width table:

post-13283-0-78122200-1427242360_thumb.j

That was a good size but I couldn't fit the Ho-Hsing motor on it so when I added that motor I replaced the table top with the formica covered MDF one. It's only an inch thick but it's plenty solid. I wouldn't use it for a flatbed top, it's way too thin, but with the 441 head sitting exactly over the post on the stand it's fine. The only movement in the whole system is the motor moving slightly on the rubber mounting grommets.

post-13283-0-51450100-1427242545_thumb.jpost-13283-0-10118200-1427242549_thumb.jpost-13283-0-60315600-1427242730_thumb.j

I also did things like add a holder for the oilcan. Eventually I'll add space to hang the various screwdrivers and hex keys needed to change the feet and make basic adjustments.

I put much bigger soft casters on the base. The ones that came with it were tiny and useless for carpet. Unfortunately they were plate mount not post mount so there are some ugly nuts on the top of the base, but I can live with that. I moved the foot pedals as well so that there's more separation between the foot lift pedal and the 'go' pedal.

The next plan is to make a better flat top for it. The ones that come with 441 clones are completely stupid in the way they attach to the table.

Edited by amuckart

-- Al.

Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net

Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net

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