sewing stingray

[DrJerry]

I bought a ray skin about a year ago and my experience has been that it's sat on the bench staring at me while I stare at it. I don't have a sewing machine and I've heard about how hard the little beads can be, and I don't want to try and push my sewing awl through them (at least not my good Douglass one). I hadn't considered pre-drilling the holes till I read it here. I might have to give that a try. I wanted to use this as an inlay in a notebook, but haven't taken on the project just yet. This has been encouraging....

Bob

Bob, that is so funny as I have about 8 or 9 stingray hides and do the same thing! I pick them up, look at them, admire the texture, then put them away again hoping to get up the nerve to make something with them.

[Bob Blea]

I'm still admiring mine too! But one of my goals for 2014 is to use one as an inlay in a notebook. I'll post it here when I get it made.

Bob

[tedinatl]

I've hand-stitched it, and pre-drilling and cutting a groove with the dremel is very helpful, if not necessary. With my new Cobra P4, I had absolutely no issues sewing a pouch sheath for a knife together - 2 layers of SR, and about 3/8" veg-tan in the middle with #277 thread. I did groove it first with a dremel, though, but that was because I didn't want the thread sticking out too much.

[MG513]

This was really useful knowledge... Im hoping my Singer 29-4 can move through this hide... I dont have a dremel though. But it sounds like it may be necessary...

[Trox]

This was really useful knowledge... Im hoping my Singer 29-4 can move through this hide... I dont have a dremel though. But it sounds like it may be necessary...

Based on what you we have read in this topic, a 29K will be to weak for such job. Unless you use the biggest leather needle that will fit and make a stitch line with a grinding tool. And keep away from the biggest beads. I would use my 441 with a NM 200 plus LR needle on this job, I would not risk using any thing less. Breaking a needle is nothing, but you also risking knocking your machine out of timing. Get broken beads, needle pieces in the shuttle and possible breaking it. If you have to use a smaller machine, choose one with a safety clutch. I would rather take the time to hand sew instead of risking breaking my 29K-72 on such work. I cannot be that big of a job?

Tor

[Colt W Knight]

The head guy at M. L. Leddy boots told me stingray was a PITA for them because stingray broke needles.

[Windrider30]

I personally hand stitch stingray and use a pricking iron for it. Jusf works better for me so never bothered with a sewing machine. Now if you are going to cut stingray cut it from the backside I have found that works better then tring to cut it from the front.

[MG513]

@ Trox,

You are probably right. I might add that I am a rookie and Ive never sewed in my life, so I have no clue what a 441 etc etc is, lol sorry. I dont plan on sewing stingray for a long time, not until i really get to know my machine. Over the weekend I did do some research though and found that many think diamond point needles are the one that should be used for such a hide, but i read that titanium is needed instead. I did talk to a friend who has already started his sneaker reconstruction business, but he has classic cobbler training, I do not, and he enjoys hand sewing though he did say stingray was quite difficult. He says he pokes the holes with an awl and then sews with some Tiger thread...

I think the 29-4 can take a size 18 needle. Is that big enough?? Also, after my 29-K i am thinking of purchasing a Sailrite Zig zag. That way I have a flat bed as well... I have read that does have a safety clutch system. After I master these 2 I will probably upgrade my 29-4 to a post post bed since I will be making shoes...

For the dremel options can someone please suggest a bit?? I a willing to take this extra step especially if it means preserving my machine!! Thanks

I personally hand stitch stingray and use a pricking iron for it. Jusf works better for me so never bothered with a sewing machine. Now if you are going to cut stingray cut it from the backside I have found that works better then tring to cut it from the front.

May I ask what pricking irons you use?? Also, what do you hit it with? Maul or mallet??

When you cut your stingray, what tool do you use to cut it with??

[Windrider30]

I use a SHARP Stanley knife making sure the blade is new. And i use a set of pro pricking irons i got from tandy and just use a heavy mallet. Oh and I prick the lines first from the back makes it easer to scribe a straight line

[Trox]

@ Trox,

You are probably right. I might add that I am a rookie and Ive never sewed in my life, so I have no clue what a 441 etc etc is, lol sorry. I dont plan on sewing stingray for a long time, not until i really get to know my machine. Over the weekend I did do some research though and found that many think diamond point needles are the one that should be used for such a hide, but i read that titanium is needed instead. I did talk to a friend who has already started his sneaker reconstruction business, but he has classic cobbler training, I do not, and he enjoys hand sewing though he did say stingray was quite difficult. He says he pokes the holes with an awl and then sews with some Tiger thread...

I think the 29-4 can take a size 18 needle. Is that big enough?? Also, after my 29-K i am thinking of purchasing a Sailrite Zig zag. That way I have a flat bed as well... I have read that does have a safety clutch system. After I master these 2 I will probably upgrade my 29-4 to a post post bed since I will be making shoes...

For the dremel options can someone please suggest a bit?? I a willing to take this extra step especially if it means preserving my machine!! Thanks

May I ask what pricking irons you use?? Also, what do you hit it with? Maul or mallet??

When you cut your stingray, what tool do you use to cut it with??

A 441, refer to a class of machines based on a the Juki TSC 441 triple feed heavy cylinder bed leather stitcher. Chinese clones of this machine are pimped to sew even heavier than the original machine, mine sew 20 mm leather with the heaviest threads (such as tex 415). A Singer size 18 is metric 110 (1,1 mm thick/small needle). I would at least use a size 26 (NM 200, 2 mm thick) on my 441 for such material.

A Dremel machine is a small El. rotating multi tool, you can use small sanding disk/grinding wheels on it. If you grind a narrow stitch line, remove the beads in it. It should be possible to sew with your machine too. Go slow with your biggest needle, LR DI or D leather needle tip. There are many cheaper copies of the Dremel for sale everywhere, lots of tools for it too. Such machine is very useful for a leather shop for lots of reasons, like mending tools or burnishing leather edges and so on.

And here is some more advice on cutting http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35981I only use stingray for inlays and not often.

When it comes to hand sewing leather in general (I sometimes do it when it's required). I use pricking wheels (in a Blanchard carriage) and a awl to do the saddle stitch. I also use a French style sewing clamp. I also finish of heavy machine seams by hand, in the sewing clamp (locking off outside the edge). I do not own or use any pricking irons. If I find any used old good ones to a decent price , I will collect them but not necessary use them.

Go to the sewing machine forum for advice on leather sewing machines, read the pinned posts on top of forum about choosing a leather sewing machine. Read up before buying a machine you cannot use on leather, it can be hard to sell "the wrong machine" later. Check our forum dealers sites, top banners for the best choices. Zip Zak machines are used on fabrics and sails. You need a triple feed straight stitch leather machine for heavy threads, preferable a cylinder bed with a shuttle hook.

Good luck

Tor