Northmount Posted June 25, 2013 Report Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) Remember that as high pressure air is reduced to low pressure, the expanding air cools. You notice that when you release air from your tires. So you need to find a balance between volume of air, and the pressure drop across the nozzle. Start with a small nozzle and maybe 10 bar air pressure. Depends on your compressor. If it is running about 3 bar, that is probably better cost wise since energy costs are higher when compressing air to a higher pressure. If the small nozzle doesn't provide enough cooling, then drill it out to the next size up and try it again. For people using English units, 1bar = 1 atmosphere (14.6954 psia). Tom There are also vortex air coolers if you want to get fancy! Edited June 25, 2013 by northmount Quote
dirtclod Posted June 25, 2013 Report Posted June 25, 2013 I seen this on here, cut a sponge to fit inside my pot, then cut a slit in it for the thread to run in. Put your lube in the pot and sew. Don't over fill it and it works great. Quote I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.
Trox Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Posted June 25, 2013 I think just air off your compressor will be enough. It is what is used on big sail/canvas/sunbrella machines. We use the air coolers (they blow cold air through thermal expansion) on our machine tools, especially for carbide tools which we run very fast. They work great, but use a really significant amount of air; you need a really big compressor system to use them. So just pipe some plain compressed air from your compressor and forget the coolers. Art Yes Art, you are right about that. I know the big spot coolers use much air, this is a mini version of it. First time I saw it was on a sail maker machine. Now it looks like its the new thing on heavy machines http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/Mini%20Cooler.aspx This is very small, here it is on a sail maker machine.http://www.solentsew.co.uk/products/SOLENT-SLH%252d2B%252dFH%252d1%252d870-COMPLETE.html Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Trox Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Posted June 25, 2013 Thank you for all good ideas, there are many advantages by using air. But I will not install a system that make the compressor run all the time, thats one of the advantages with this mini cooler. It uses a small amount of compressed air to produce cold air 20 deg. Fahrenheit. I will test it before buying it, they sell it here in Norway too. Many times I sew thing before coloring too, with air I have the option to do so. Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
pabloz Posted June 25, 2013 Report Posted June 25, 2013 Saw dust is all I use to pick up lubricants off the floor...it's free and works great. PZ Quote Paul Zalesak Leather Wranglers Inc. www.leatherwranglers.com
Trox Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 Thanks, I have better things to do with my time than mopping up oil. No offense, i use that saw dust myself to remove motor oil on the garage floor. This time I will take my good friend the leather gurus advice and pay someone else to do the work for a change. (Then I can be busy making money on leather work instead) I will buy a finished little air cooler system that will fit right on with a magnet and plugs and play with my air system. Its a port on the back of my Efka motor than can be used to control it, if I want too( however, thats not necessary) I could fabricate a tubing system myself. However I doubt it will be any cheaper, and I know it will not be any better. I always seems to forget the amount of time used on projects like that, you got to find parts , buy it, fabricate it and so on. Its sometimes fun and the time just flies by. This is a click on the Internet, then plug and play. And the best thing, no more silicon. By the way, you make very nice leather tools Thanks Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members gottaknow Posted June 26, 2013 Members Report Posted June 26, 2013 I use an air switch pittman rod to control my needle coolers. I have about 8 machines right now using them. With the control switches, the air only flows when you sew. I have tons of air, so that's not a concern anyway. I've used the commercial coolers and have seen no difference in performance at all. All that's required is to reduce the needle heat to below the melting temp of the thread. I make my coolers from 1/8" copper tubing recycled from machine oil pumps. 30 mins is about all I need. The actual airflow required is very little. If you blow too much air, you can wipe your thread out of the way affecting proper loop formation. On chainstitch machines, I cool the needles below the throat plate. One of the machines is a Juki 3 step zig zag which we set patches of deer hide onto Lycra. Because of the Lycra, I can't use a leather needle so theres' a lot of heat generated. On that machine I also soak the cones in silicone as it's only Tex40. Regards, Eric Quote
Members Massive Posted June 26, 2013 Members Report Posted June 26, 2013 You can apply some of the silicon oils directly to the thread cone, they soak in the spool fees dry, but it does improve performance. Quote
Trox Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Posted June 26, 2013 Thank you Erik, when you say so I might reconsider. You have the switch connected to the sewing pedals/ motors pitman's rod. Thats a simple and good solution. My air system is not up and running yet, I am going to change compressor to a silent one. The machine do not use much air, I must see how much its left when the system is up an running. I have a big compressor but its to noisy so I am changing it so I can listen to the radio. In the mean time I will follow Massive`s advice and prelube the thread. Thank you Massive. Some of the thread I am using is prelubed Coats Gral and it not that hot. Erik, How do you regulate the air flow, do you make a small hole in tube or do you use a regulator? 1/8 its about 3 mm. copper tubing maybe the same who is used on refrigerators Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members gottaknow Posted June 26, 2013 Members Report Posted June 26, 2013 Thank you Erik, when you say so I might reconsider. You have the switch connected to the sewing pedals/ motors pitman's rod. Thats a simple and good solution. My air system is not up and running yet, I am going to change compressor to a silent one. The machine do not use much air, I must see how much its left when the system is up an running. I have a big compressor but its to noisy so I am changing it so I can listen to the radio. In the mean time I will follow Massive`s advice and prelube the thread. Thank you Massive. Some of the thread I am using is prelubed Coats Gral and it not that hot. Erik, How do you regulate the air flow, do you make a small hole in tube or do you use a regulator? 1/8 its about 3 mm. copper tubing maybe the same who is used on refrigerators I use a regulator to adjust the airflow which is usually less than 10 psi. It really takes very little air. Regards, Eric Quote
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