Antiquing - a cry for help

[UKRay]

That would need to be one heck of a big shirt, Hilly - those gloves sound fun though!

The dog is asleep in the bath at present but I'll let it know what you suggested...

[Hilly]

That would need to be one heck of a big shirt, Hilly - those gloves sound fun though!

The dog is asleep in the bath at present but I'll let it know what you suggested...

Awwwww, what a cute dog! How did you get him to lay in that sink like that? And how did he get so DIRTY?

[The Major]

Well, I'm no expert but I will offer what I do.

First off, don't feel bad about the gloves, I have 2 boxes within arms length and almost never remember to use them. When you are on a roll, your on a roll.

I use a sponge to apply my antique. Lightly dampen it with plain water. Dip the sponge in the goop and go (You really don't need to use a lot of it). I don't worry too much about it drying as I go, as my next step will remove the excess. Once you have completed going over it once, take another sponge with some water and soap (I use my casing solution as it is only water and dawn). Do not overly soak the sponge. Go over the project removing the excess. Now wipe it with a rag to remove any surface moisture. If it is not as dark as you want, go over it again using the same process.

This method takes a while especially if you are really trying to change the color. But with antiquing you are really not supposed to make drastic changes, that is what the preliminary dye work is for. You are just supposed to be adding some character.

Finally, stop trying to antique your dog. Spray paint works much better!

[UKRay]

The dog always sleeps in the bath, Hilly. He is a bloke so it is almost obligatory...

I am a little confused (it doesn't take much does it?) as I have been advised to mix the antiquing with water. Now I thought the stuff was spirit based. It smells like spirit, it looks like a spirit based substance - how could I be so wrong?

I would really like a little reassurance at this point that the stuff I am using is the same as the stuff you guys have got - see picture below.

FYI: I have managed to salvage the three belts (with meths, glasspaper and hard work) and I think they look okay - see picture below.

I've really gotta sort this stuff out before I make any more mess!

[Luke Hatley]

RAY IS THAT AWFUL STAIN ON THE CUTTING MAT FROM YOUR TRIAL & TRIBULATIONS TODAY?

MAN THAT IS A MESS

FROM WHAT I SEE OF THE ANTIQUE IT IS PETROLEUM BASE.

IT SEEMS TO ME THAT YOU GOT SOME FINE ADVICE AS TO "WHAT NOT TO DO THE NEXT TIME &

WHAT TO DO".

ME, PERSONALY I DO NOT USE A LOT OF ANTIQUE, THE TIMES I USE IT IS ON THE BASKET WEAVE DESIGN AND TO OUTLINE LETTERING.SOME TIMES I WILL" SPRAY DYE"A BELT AND WIPE THE

ANTIQUE ON THE BELT AND THEN WIPE OFF. THIS GIVES ME THE"ANTIQUE " THAT I AM LOOKING FOR.

[The Major]

Please keep in mind. I did not recommend mixing it with water. Just use a damp sponge (this is not mixing it with water). You are not trying to dilute the antique medium. You are using it as a sort of barrier, much like a resist would. The sponge is not going to contain that much water.

You are correct in saying it is "spirit" solvent based, however it is not a true petroleum solvent. It contains benzine and terpine as its base. Also as you go along the solvents will remove most of the water anyway.

I made this recommendation to aid in controlling the amount of media you are using. This is what works for me. You will get hundreds of answers on how to do things. the trick is finding one that works for you.

[UKRay]

Please keep in mind. I did not recommend mixing it with water. Just use a damp sponge (this is not mixing it with water). You are not trying to dilute the antique medium. You are using it as a sort of barrier, much like a resist would. The sponge is not going to contain that much water.

You are correct in saying it is "spirit" solvent based, however it is not a true petroleum solvent. It contains benzine and terpine as its base. Also as you go along the solvents will remove most of the water anyway.

I made this recommendation to aid in controlling the amount of media you are using. This is what works for me. You will get hundreds of answers on how to do things. the trick is finding one that works for you.

Aha! Now that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation Major. I'm already much happier about this stuff but would be glad to hear from anyone who has anything else to add. I don't think we have quite got to the bottom of this yet.

Yes, Luke, that IS a very small sample of the mess I made earlier... but we aren't going to mention that again are we? In fact we are going to wipe it from our memories and never ever use it to tease, taunt or torment. <grin!!!!>

[bustedlifter]

Ray, lots of good suggestions here. I'll add mine and you can take it for what its worth. After tooling and dyeing (or in my case, sharpieing) I oil the piece up a bit with some quality oil like 60w Valvoline. Today I used HD 60W because I was out of Valvoline. I like the Fiebing's antique also. I used a sandwich bag today,out of gloves.I just dip a couple of fingers in the antique and lightly smear it over the work and into all the impressions.Next I wipe off the excess immediately,I don't give it time to dry. Then I take a rag wrapped around a finger and get some more out of the impressions as I like to use the antique to outline.I then go over the whole thing again with a damp cloth to get any stray stain,let it dry for a day or two, then finish it off with some Aussie Conditioner.

[ClayB]

I usually thin my antique paste about half with tan kote. Makes it kind of runny instead of really thick. Then I wipe it on with a damp sponge. I dont let it dry more than a few minutes and then wipe it back off with another damp sponge, leaving it in the impressions. Then I will give it a coat of tan kote to seal it, wiped on again with a damp sponge. For me, having it thinned down makes it less messy.

[CitizenKate]

Ray, mixing antique with Tan-Kote works very well for me, as well. Not only does it mellow out the contrast a little, but it also gives you more time to work. Furthermore, the antique/stain job (whatever you prefer to call it) ends up much more stable once it cures. In other words, the top coat isn't as likely to lift off parts of the antique job.

I also highly support David's comments about using paper towels and spreading down some newsprint. Just... don't ever run out of paper towels, man.

Kate