I Need Some Guidance On How To Stain And Finish My Holster

[SouthernCross]

I'm in the process of making a shoulder holster using the Tandy plans and have really made a mess of it with my dyeing job. I used Fiebings British Tan straight out of the bottle, applied with a wool dauber on completely dry leather. Well, my holster is now a very dark burgundy and my stamping job doesn't show up very well. I was having to keep rubbing with the dauber in order to blend in the various spots, which only made my creating darker and darker. It now looks like crap!

So, can anyone please give me some guidance as to how I should approach my staining and finishing operation for my (next) holster?

Edited August 28, 2013 by SouthernCross

[mikesmith648]

Part of the answer would depend on where you are located. A suitable resist would work and the availability of the various products varies by location. (you can't get the good stuff overseas or in California). After using a resist (I always use 2 coats) you would allow this to dry completely and then wipe on the resist and then immediately buff off with a soft cloth such as tshirt material or wool padding. Wyosheen or Clear Lac are my personal first choices for a resist. JMHO Mike

[particle]

I've not had good luck applying dye with a dauber, so my suggestion for your next holster would be to apply the dye using an airbrush, or at least the Preval Sprayer (which I've never personally used). You could also try switching to Angelus dyes, as I've heard they're much easier to apply. You might also consider diluting your dye with the appropriate thinner. Another thing you can try is the Tandy Professional Waterstains - they're very easy to apply and come out very evenly when applied full-strength with a sponge and won't go excessively dark on you - they'll come out very close to the sample colors you'll find online. Ian Atkinson has some videos that show him applying dye with a dauber - his products come out great looking, though I'm not sure exactly what he uses off-hand. He has a video or two that specifically relates to applying dye (how-to). http://www.youtube.com/user/satansbarber

For finish, I like to apply it with a 1" sponge paint brush, but this method really one works for small items (holsters and such are fine). I would not do it this way with a large journal cover, etc. For that, I'd use an airbrush to eliminate streaks completely and to eliminate dye transfer. Others like to dip their holsters in their finish. This works too, but make sure you have an air compressor handy to blow off the excess finish so you don't get puddles and streaks. I always use 50/50 acrylic sealer & water. I've had good luck with Fiebing's Resolene and Angelus 600. When I first started, I was using Tandy's Satin Sheen, which also works fine.

[Josh Ashman]

I use the Fiebings British Tan quite a bit and have had pretty good results. I cut it between 30% and 50% with plain rubbing alcohol and apply it with sheepskin (I have lots of sheepskin leftovers from lining saddles, if you don't have any on hand try getting some from a local saddle maker or use a cloth or sponge). I've also cut it with neatsfoot oil which also works well but will get pretty splotchy on you which can be fixed with more coats but it darkens up.

This is cut with alcohol

and this one was cut with NF oil

Good luck, Josh

[Steve75]

Before I dyed my first holster I tried different dye ideas on scrap leather to see if I would like the results. I currently apply olive oil to my holsters and allow them to sit out in the sun to tan. I have gotten some good results doing this. The more oil you put on the holster the darker it will be. I seal my holsters with a 50/50 mix of water and mop and glow, followed up by polishing with Kiwi neutral shoe polish. If you do a search for holster finishes you will find several good ideas on how to protect your work. Experiment and see what works best for you.

[Warpe]

For dye applications, two common methods are airbrushing and dip dyeing. Airbrushing gives you a lot of control over the application, while dip dying is all in the timing of how long you leave it soaking. Finishes are well documented on this forum and there are many ways of doing it and everyone has their favorite.

[SouthernCross]

Thanks, guys.

Josh, the finish on the top holster was kinda what I was aiming for. I'll try cutting it with alcohol next time and see how that works out.

[Jimbob]

cutting it down to 30-50% is the trick here...use Alcohol, then apply to scrap leather, let dry and see if you like it....

apply it and wait 30 min....add Aussies leather conditioner and see if you like the tone of color....done!!