Members WScott Posted October 1, 2013 Members Report Posted October 1, 2013 Oil tan is definitely a different beast. I have used neatsfoot oil but gotta be careful not to slop it all over, also done gum trag that seemed to do well on the Horween. Both sealed with bees wax or saddle soap Have also just left it as a cut edge for a more rustic look to a bag. Quote
Members KandB Posted October 2, 2013 Author Members Report Posted October 2, 2013 I normally leave it as a cut edge - but I don't like seeing a project that has several layers, with the layers folding/splitting because they haven't been finished together. Quote ---------------------------------- Divina Denuevo www.divina-denuevo.com
Members WScott Posted October 2, 2013 Members Report Posted October 2, 2013 I have been babbling on about Horween Chromexel in a couple posts. One of the nice things about this waxy feeling pull up leather is it edges nicely with friction and a bit of gum trag These guys have some if you are in the neighbourhood http://www.lonsdaleleather.com/ Quote
Members KandB Posted October 2, 2013 Author Members Report Posted October 2, 2013 I have some horween, I'll try it, but I have crazyhorse which is similar with pullup and it still doesn't clean up as nicely. It's not even stricken through. The Tandy stone oiled and kodiak are both not great when it comes to finishing the edges, though I suspect its more what I'm doing than the leather. Never tried gum trag though. Quote ---------------------------------- Divina Denuevo www.divina-denuevo.com
Members WScott Posted October 2, 2013 Members Report Posted October 2, 2013 (edited) Gum trag to smooth fibers down and then some bees wax and friction to burnish. Saddle soap works as well, but I found gum trag was faster. Test it out on some scrap, see if it works out to your liking Edited October 2, 2013 by WScott Quote
Members KandB Posted October 22, 2013 Author Members Report Posted October 22, 2013 The gum trag is amazing - thank you for the recommendation. Night and day compared to what I saw doing before! Quote ---------------------------------- Divina Denuevo www.divina-denuevo.com
Members jackd942 Posted October 22, 2013 Members Report Posted October 22, 2013 Nice thread here...lots if different styles/opinions. Guess it comes down to trial and error and what works for you. Quote http://DavisLeather.blogspot.com http://Facebook.com/DavisCustomLeather
Members VonTannin Posted January 2, 2014 Members Report Posted January 2, 2014 I have had the absolute best results with those cheap foam chisel brushes you can get in almost any art or paint department of any store that has such a department. I mark on the wooden handle what color dye, or edge paint I used the brush for, wash it out when I'm finished, and they last for a very long time. If you're just careful when pulling the brush around you're edges you shouldn't have a problem. Occasionally it does go over the side, just prepared with a paper towel and wipe it off before it has time to set into the leather. Quote
Members treybecca Posted January 2, 2014 Members Report Posted January 2, 2014 I personally love love love Quik Slick from Sheridan leather. Much more consistent results the gum trag and less money per ounce. As for color I use a big ole pro Sharpie with a chiseled end and I get clean results everytime. I guess some folks would consider it cheating, but pretty sure they wouldn't be able to tell the difference Quote
Members axmay Posted June 4, 2017 Members Report Posted June 4, 2017 I have tried all kinds of edge finishing gums. The one I have found to be absolutely the best so far is Seiwa Tokonole. I have also learned it is important to use any finishing gum or other liquid very sparingly - I now use my finger. If it is too wet then when burnishing the leather gets "smooshed." A little goes a long way using as little pressure as possible to generate the necessary friction. This has all been trial and error and reading a lot of forums, including this one. Seriously I love the Seiwa - I have no interest in the product. I like it because it is like a cream and viscous. It is much harder to apply too much as it would be with the gum tragacanths that I have bought in the past. Also, because it is creamy it is unlikely to spill over your edge onto the front or back of your work. It gets a really good shine. In solidarity with the others in this thread I too find edge painting to be both an art and science - one which I have yet to master. Either my roller gets stuck and does not spin freely (often) or I find that the paint settles thin and I can still see the seam through the edge paint. I sand and try to "push" the dry paint to hide the seam. Not very effective. Does anyone know of a good substance to use to fill the small seam cracks that will take leather paint afterward? Quote
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