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Posted

I have a question - When I glued my seat in I used a ceramic doorknob bouncer to really press the leather into the cantle face.

It left some rub marks - Can anyone comment if these are permanent or if there is a way to minimize them? I will take some pictures.

Ron

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Posted

Pictures please. Usually when I glue my seat in, I use a "protective leather" and a shoeing hammer. The leather I use is a piece of 13-15oz skirting that is shaped about 6" round. It is feathered about 1" in from the edge. I pound it and move it around all over the cantle as I pound and it gives a good smooth result. You might try that even now after wetting the seat a little to see if it takes out the marks you talking about. HOpe that helps you.

Bob

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Posted

Ron,

The shape of the doorknob bouncer is probably convex, so if you use the leather pad as Bob mentioned, it will reduce the marks on the seat. I also use an old doorknob bouncer, and have experienced your problem. You just need to move it around continuously in different directions so that the leather is equally compressed throughout your seat. Superficial marks or indentations on leather can usually be removed or leveled out with moistening of the leather and rubbing out the mark with a rub stick (bone folder, slicker, etc.); just don't rub so hard that you end up burnishing the leather (this is permanent).

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Posted

I believe I have actually burnished the leather - The door knob bouncer is convex - Next time I will be definitely using the protective leather pad. I have attached pictures for you to look at - Let me know if this looks recoverable. I guess the other question I have is will this affect the ability of the seat to absorb neatsfoot oil?

27 seat fitted

26 seat fitted

Bob & Goldshot - I appreciate your help on this.
Many Thanks,
Ron
  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Been busy lately with other projects so this one has sat idle for nearly a month.

Anyhow, tooled up rear jockeys and installed Cheyenne roll yesterday. Started sewing it - I'd be interested in any tips / tricks you have for this... Sewing through that roll is heavy work!

28 cheyenne roll

Interesting thing about this project is that it has helped me to correctly value a custom saddle - I can now see why a good custom rig sells for $4000.00 / $6000.00.
Any one who thinks that a custom saddle should cost anything less should just try make one!
Ron L
Posted

Ron,

Thanks for the update. I was getting curious about your progress. I can't offer tips on sewing a Cheyenne roll, but am interested in hearing any.

Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Randy

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Posted

Cheyenne roll is sewn up now, rear jockeys stretched in (could use some more stretching I think).

29 partially asembled

Next step is to bore through for saddle strings. Can anyone comment on that? I feel that boring is the way to go - Is there any compelling reason to just screw them on?
MT,
R
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Posted

Bore, then before assembly, use a french edger to cut out a slight groove between the holes and a matching one for the center of the strings on their flesh side and then beat in with a hammer before gluing on sheepskin. If you punch the holes in the skirts and jockeys with a 1/2 bag punch it will help with smooth installation of strings.

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Posted

Thanks Oltoot - That is the way I will go.

Here are better pics. I am up for any critiques anyone can offer - Thanks, R

31 partially asembled

32 partially asembled

33 partially asembled

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Posted

Ok Ron, up to now, you have taken your time and done a really nice job, you are getting right down to the end of it. As usual as is the case with me, I like to take my time and not rush it, however; when I get to the end , I find myself getting in a hurry to finish and see the results of my labor. I know it is hard, but; now is the time to make sure that you are continuing to take your time and do all that work you have done so far, justice. One thing I like to do to help with that is to make up a lot of the stuff that is time consuming and usually done last, but; doesn't have to be, like stirrups and fenders stirrup leathers rear billets and chinch, and so on. I try to get to these while I am waiting for the tree to come. Again, you are doing a nice job, you will be happy with the results.

Bob

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