JAM Posted September 24, 2008 Report Posted September 24, 2008 I'm going to build a new, bigger (4'x8') layout and cutting table, and I was wondering what other leatherworkers use (and like) for a surface? If you use plastic - which I'm inclined to do - what kind do you use? Quote Life is unpredictable; eat dessert first.
Drac Posted September 24, 2008 Report Posted September 24, 2008 I've got a 33"x58" (marked measuring surface. it's actually slightly larger) self healing cutting mat I got from a jo ann's fabric store. I don't use a head knife so I don't know how it would hold up to those, but works great with a rolling cutter and exacto blades. my table's also low so that I can put a foot down onto a straightedge when I use that for cutting so it doesn't move. Quote frissenfrassenmussafrussen...
esantoro Posted September 24, 2008 Report Posted September 24, 2008 (edited) I've been wanting to share my experience with my choice of tables, but for some reason have been too lazy to start a thread about it. I like having equipment that can serve multiple purposes. Folding tables work very nicely, though none of them are much good for heavy pounding. Here's what I have: 2' x 6' laminated dense particle board (melanine ?? and rather heavy) banquet table from staples for about $50 and free shipping. This table seems to take all my mess until needed later. 2' x 4' heavy plastic table from Lifetime, also about $50. This table is topped with a 2' x4' x .5" cutting board from U.S. plastics. I use this table for most of my work. I can put a 50 lbs anvil on it and set Jiffy rivets and cut out 2" oval logos. The only think I cannot do on this table is set the caps on semitubular rivets or peen or roll over the posts, which requires a serious whacking from a heavy steel hammer or mallet (peening, rolling over). Though this folding table is made of heavy plastic, it is very sturdy. http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_10104_1...me=For+the+Home These two tables work very nicely. Now, just yesterday I received the latest addition to my flexible system. 4 folding chairs from Lifetime, very sturdy and comfortable. $120 from K-mart pls about $11 shipping. Try to find free shipping if you can. http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_10104_1...me=For+the+Home 2 20"x30" folding tables from Lifetime, like large TV trays, but much sturdier. From K-mart at $30 apiece. One of these tables serves to hold stitching projects off the left side of my machine. These tables have three height positions. I wouldn't use these tables for any pounding, but they're good for holding things, gluing, setting stuff up, and prepping. http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_10104_1...me=For+the+Home I think Sears also has these tables, though their prices seem higher. Eventually, both K-mart and Sears should have these products on sale and perhaps free shipping. I think I may try to get rid of my heavy 2' x 6' table and replace it with one from Lifetime. For what limited pounding you can do, I'd say the plastic tables from Lifetime serve better than the melanine tables, which are a bit cheaper. Ed Edited September 24, 2008 by esantoro Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Members mulefool Posted September 25, 2008 Members Report Posted September 25, 2008 I have two cutting tables with polyethylene butcher block cutting board surfaces. They are both 4' X 8'. I got the sheets from a plastics place down in Seattle. They are about 3/4 inch thick I believe. the last one I got maybe five years ago and it was about $125 per sheet as I recall. Both my tables are pretty heavy duty. Solid enough I can set rivets and such without too much bounce if I center it over a leg. I really like the plastic. The place where I stand the most gets kind of chewed up over time so eventually I rotate the sheet and then turn it over and rotate it again. Over 25 years I've eventually had to replace one because it just got too chewed up. Somewhere I hear you could take a torch to it to even out the surface again but that sounds like trouble to me. Also the surface I get has a very small kind of pebbly grain to it. I have also seen it smooth but I think the pebble grain would work best. Quote www.horseandmulegear.com
Members daviD A Morris Posted September 26, 2008 Members Report Posted September 26, 2008 I have two cutting tables with polyethylene butcher block cutting board surfaces. They are both 4' X 8'. I got the sheets from a plastics place down in Seattle. They are about 3/4 inch thick I believe. the last one I got maybe five years ago and it was about $125 per sheet as I recall. Both my tables are pretty heavy duty. Solid enough I can set rivets and such without too much bounce if I center it over a leg. I really like the plastic. The place where I stand the most gets kind of chewed up over time so eventually I rotate the sheet and then turn it over and rotate it again. Over 25 years I've eventually had to replace one because it just got too chewed up. Somewhere I hear you could take a torch to it to even out the surface again but that sounds like trouble to me. Also the surface I get has a very small kind of pebbly grain to it. I have also seen it smooth but I think the pebble grain would work best. I also have the polyethylene cutting board. Bought it from a butcher's supply wholesaler, but the biggest sheet I could get was 6' x 4' and only 3/8" thick. The thickness is ok, but my cutting-out bench is 4' x 8' so 2' of it is not covered . My polyethylene had a smooth finish, works fine, last for years. My ideal cutting-out bench (which I now have) is an island bench that I can walk all the way around, not built against a wall. Also not too high, just below waist height, that way I can easily reach out into the middle of a side of leather when laid out. The frame is made of heavy chunks of hardwood and braced well, I can not stand to have any bench which is wobbly! If space was not an issue I would have 2 cutting out benches like this, so that I could have 2 sides laid out at the same time when cutting out for saddles. Quote Remember to drink the coffee not the edging dye!
Members ChuckBurrows Posted September 26, 2008 Members Report Posted September 26, 2008 For a heavy duty cutting surface that is pretty self-healing try a rubber horse stall mat - I use the flat backside.......they run under $50.00 fora 4' x 6" x 1/2" or 3/4" Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
oldgringo Posted September 28, 2008 Report Posted September 28, 2008 My goodness those are such great ideas. I really should try some of them. My old ping pong table is a little flimsy - but I can lay out a whole hide and cut on it with one of those soft plastic cutting boards under the leather. But it is a little low. Someday I'm going to have a proper shop. Quote
ArtS Posted September 28, 2008 Report Posted September 28, 2008 I bought a sheet of 1"x24"x48" High-Density Polyethylene(HDPE) cutting pad from Campbell-Bosworth a few years ago. It's held up great! I think it's teh same thing that people use for clicker pads. At the time mine cost about $80. Art http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/p...products_id/444 Here are some other places to buy from. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.a...roduct_id=25020 http://thecuttingboardfactory.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Quote Art Schwab "You cannot teach a man anything. You can only help him discover it within himself." – Galileo Galilei
Members rbrooks Posted March 24, 2009 Members Report Posted March 24, 2009 My lay-out table and work bench are made of 4x4 posts for legs ,frames of 2x6`s. Lay-out table has 3/4 inch plywood top, work bench has 2x6 top. I went to Oregon Leather, out of Portland Oregon and ordered a 28 by 18 piece of neoprine sole material, actually two of them. On my lay-out table I just leave it loose and use it as circumstance dictates. On my work beench I framed around it with 1/2 inch strip of leather to keep it from moving around. When I`m cutting, say a set of stirrup straps,I start at the left end of the table and cut for 26 inches or so,reach under the side of leather, slide the mat down and begin cutting again. this is great for a variety of reasons. Try it you`ll like it. By the way the neoprene only cost me $28.00 two years ago and they sent me enough material for three pads. My first pads lasted somewhere between 25 and 30 years and I`m still using one of the original ones on the lay-out table. Heres something else that might interest you on work surfaces. I took and old TV from the 60`s or 70`s, one of those console models and took the glass front out of it and put it on my work bench. I framed it in with 1/2 inch leather stripping also. This is an incredible surface for skiving all your leather work can`t be beat. Never dulls your skiving knives. If you have to buy new glass do not buy safety glass, you can`t skive on it. Buy plain, untreated glass. Hope I haven`t bored ya! Hope I might of been of some help. Keep toolin! Rbrooks Quote
Contributing Member UKRay Posted March 24, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted March 24, 2009 I was fortunate enough to find three ex-library tables on eBay. Each is made from solid oak and measures 6ft x 2ft 6". I have covered one with a 3ft x 7ft High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) cutting board that I purchased from www.partwell.com in the UK. This has been completely successful and I couldn't praise Partwell's service higher. They cut the board to size and delivered it to my door. In addition, I use standard cheapo (catering quality) HDPE cutting boards under my foot press machines which I use for for punching holes. Once again, no problems there. I also use 24" x 12" catering style cutting boards for tacking down work that needs to be left to dry. Shoe tacks are plenty sharp enough to work well and the surface can be used over and over without splintering like wood. Quote "Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps" Ray Hatley www.barefootleather.co.uk
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