Chris B Report post Posted December 1, 2013 Hey all, I was up in the holster section, and I was going to post my question in Shooter McGavin's post, Bonding Double layer belts. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51887 But I didn't want to take his thread off topic. My question on lining belts/making double layer belts, I under stand bonding the belts with a roller, but do you do that before or after you carve or stamp the leather? Thanks, Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoyalLeatherDesigns Report post Posted December 1, 2013 I would and have done it before you start stamping it I don't think you would want to pound it or roll it with much pressure father you have spent hour stamping a crisp design. I might be wrong but definitely interested in whats the right way. Good luck. Ralph Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Other way around. Carve it FIRST, do any coloring you want, THEN stick n stitch. Much better defiinition in the carving. You 'could' tool it after it's one piece - much as you could emboss layers - but it's easier to tool first. One exception, a fella might stitch it together before coloring if you are planning to dip dye both sides. Also, pretty popular to put white (or natural) thread on brown or black leather. This can only be done by coloring FIRST, then stitching (go ahead, somone paint in between stitches to prove thats wrong ) Edited December 1, 2013 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoyalLeatherDesigns Report post Posted December 1, 2013 I agree with you on getting a crisper stamp if its one piece but I wouldn't pound or roll the crap out if it after its been stamped. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Pounding is un-necessary, . . . period. A light rolling with a rolling pin just to flatten it together is all that is needed. And all you are doing is making sure there are no air voids where the glue comes together on the two pieces. Now I know there are folks who disagree, . . . Take 4 pieces of leather, . . . cut em 2 inches wide, . . . 4 inches long, . . . lather em all 4 up on the flesh side with Weldwood. Let it dry, . . . fully dry to the touch, . . . dry enough that you can lay it on newspaper and it not stick. Stick two of them together, . . . lay a piece of 2 x 4 on it, . . . and whack it to your little hearts content. Stick the other two of them together, . . . and with one hand, . . . put a good portion of your body weight on it for 3 to 5 seconds with just the palm of your hand. Give it an hour, . . . try pulling them apart. There really shouldn't be much difference in the two test pieces when you get em apart. . . . IF you get them apart. But in answer to the original question, . . . realize you have to put some pressure on the pieces to get them together. If the design is really delicate, . . . intricate, . . . you may want to do the artist work last. On the other hand, . . . if you are stamping acorns, . . . skulls, . . . or other images (names and/or initials), . . . do it up front, . . . then put it together. May God bless, Dwight Edited December 1, 2013 by Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoyalLeatherDesigns Report post Posted December 1, 2013 Dwight thanks for sharing that info with us I am here to learn better techniques and tricks of the trade and I will definitely remember and use this practice. God Bless! Ralph Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris B Report post Posted December 2, 2013 Thank you guys for the info!! Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites