Looking For Tips On Cutting Perfectly Square

[jenkins]

Hi all, first time posting, so apologies in advance for what is surely duplicate content or some grand faux pas I don't have the context to realize I'm making

I'm just beginning to learn hand stitching, and while every single part of the process is challenging for me, the one I'm having particular trouble with is cutting perfectly straight and square into a piece of leather.

I've been lightly outlining a guide into my leather using a template and a scratching awl (I believe it's called) without too much issue. But when it comes time to cut, I have the hardest time keeping my straightedge from slipping as I cut with a utility knife. I've also tried using a knife that was recommended at Tandy but the utility knife seems to cut much better. Does anyone have any best practices for keeping the straight edge on the leather without it slipping?

Additionally, once I do get a somewhat square piece of leather cut, and I fold it over to punch holes into it (using a pricking iron / punching iron / four pronged sharp thing) the leather has a tendency to skew and the pieces become mis-aligned and I end up ruining the whole project by punching holes bad holes into the project.

Any tips on those two particular issues would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

[Matt T]

Use a rotary cutter and a straight edge

[jenkins]

The issue is more around keeping the straight edge from moving, I'm not sure a rotary cutter would change that much.

[TXAG]

Yeah, I have a really nice Gingher rotary cutter and it doesn't work for $#@# on cutting a straight line on my leather. I have the same problem with the utility knife too. I usually end up scoring it with the utility knife and then bending it and cutting the rest of the way. (This is with a brand new blade also, so it's not that.)

I should probably just invest in a good round knife and be done with it...maybe if someone would ever buy any of my stuff, I'll be able to invest in such things.

[dirtclod]

You can try a stainless steel cork backed ruler. The ones i have i found at a office supply store. The cork is supposed to keep it from slipping, but i never have tried it. 15 inch rulers are the handiest for me.

[Jax]

Make sure your knife is really sharp, mark your line with a scratch awl or similar, then follow the line with your knife, takes some practice but is easier in the long run, in my opinion

[impulse]

It is a common problem that rulers slip. In cutting straps from a new hide, I must first start with a perfectly straight edge. I solve the ruler slip by clamping each end of my 1mtr long steel rule over the leather onto my cutting bench, using standard woodworking clamps. The sharpest tool to use and easiest to guide along the ruler is a surgical scalpel. These are quite inexpensive and usually available from eBay. For cutting square shapes use a steel set square (again clamped) to get accurate angle. If the leather is thin, stabilize it by temporarily lining the back with self adhesive shelf lining. Any residual adhesive can be removed with white spirits.

Hope this helps.

[Dwight]

Dirtclod's answer (cork backed s/s rulers) is about 60% of the answer to your problem. These rulers (I have an 18 and a 48) are worth their weight in gold for the leather worker.

The other 40% is the knife. Personally, . . . the carpenter's utility knife is my favorite for anything above 4 oz leather, . . . a 50mm rotary cutter does the 4 and below stuff very nicely, . . . especially any fringe I want to cut. Every brand new blade right out of the package first goes to my strop before it ever touches leather. Then strop it every time before you use it. Leather demands either sharp tools or blood sacrifice on your part, . . . and it is your choice. Dull blades will get you the blood sacrifice.

For absolutely square pieces, . . . you need a table with a flat & square edge, . . . and a triangular "rafter" square, . . . it looks like a 6 inch by 6 inch aluminum triangle with a lip on one side, . . . lay the leather along the edge of the desk, . . . put the square on it, . . . cut the perpindicular edge, . . . voila, . . . exact squares.

Final tip, . . . you cannot cut leather well when you are sitting on your duff. Stand up, . . . look straight down on what you are cutting, . . . and give it your total concentration. And again, . . . I cannot emphatically urge you too much to make sure your blades are SHARP !!!

May God bless,

Dwight

[jackd942]

Dirtclod's answer (cork backed s/s rulers) is about 60% of the answer to your problem. These rulers (I have an 18 and a 48) are worth their weight in gold for the leather worker.

The other 40% is the knife. Personally, . . . the carpenter's utility knife is my favorite for anything above 4 oz leather, . . . a 50mm rotary cutter does the 4 and below stuff very nicely, . . . especially any fringe I want to cut. Every brand new blade right out of the package first goes to my strop before it ever touches leather. Then strop it every time before you use it. Leather demands either sharp tools or blood sacrifice on your part, . . . and it is your choice. Dull blades will get you the blood sacrifice.

For absolutely square pieces, . . . you need a table with a flat & square edge, . . . and a triangular "rafter" square, . . . it looks like a 6 inch by 6 inch aluminum triangle with a lip on one side, . . . lay the leather along the edge of the desk, . . . put the square on it, . . . cut the perpindicular edge, . . . voila, . . . exact squares.

Final tip, . . . you cannot cut leather well when you are sitting on your duff. Stand up, . . . look straight down on what you are cutting, . . . and give it your total concentration. And again, . . . I cannot emphatically urge you too much to make sure your blades are SHARP !!!

May God bless,

Dwight

+1

[Tree Reaper]

Try to concentrate on downward pressure more than side pressure on the straight edge.

I use a steel framing square as well, more weight less movement and you can put a knee on the end to help hold it.

Clamping for cutting long pieces works real well, I have a 4ft. aluminum straight edge for that.

Sharp blade is a must.

Edited December 9, 2013 by Tree Reaper