How do I make the groover my friend??

[leatheroo]

those things are meant to be sharpened???? i have the original one i bought when i was in high school...thirty + years ago and still works a dream!!

try changing the angle of the L shaped thingy that does the cutting.

[TomSwede]

Thanks Roo! I'm on the same track as you and didn't think they were meant to be shapened but since jewelers rogueand buffing seem to be the cure to everything I just thought maybe give it a try.

I've stropped it now but also switched to standing up wich really feels alot better and got a lot better results on the scrap pieces but I betcha I flunk with it going on a "sharp" piece. If you anticipate failure it often happens so.

I'm gonna pull out that riflesling now and have a second run in the first grooves.

I've tried to change the angle on the L thing cutter but since it's splined it seems to fall back into standard position, the little I can alter the angle.

Tom

Edited September 27, 2008 by TomSwede

[greg gomersall]

Tom quite often when you buff things you end up with a "wire edge" that folds over on the cutting edge. You are correct that you need to sharpen or polish the inside of the hole. Rub some beeswax on a thread then apply rouge to the thread and run it thru the hole on the groover. Now tie each end of the thread to something solid and your hands will be free to work your groover blade back and forth sharpening the inside of the hole. hope this helps. Greg

[TomSwede]

Tom quite often when you buff things you end up with a "wire edge" that folds over on the cutting edge. You are correct that you need to sharpen or polish the inside of the hole. Rub some beeswax on a thread then apply rouge to the thread and run it thru the hole on the groover. Now tie each end of the thread to something solid and your hands will be free to work your groover blade back and forth sharpening the inside of the hole. hope this helps. Greg

Thanks Greg!

Good tip! I did strop it with a rogued thread but had the groover clamped between my knees to be able to polish the inside and avoid the prob you mention with wire edge.

Doing it your way is a great tip and gives good control over the stropping.

Tom

[BearMan]

Hi Tom,

Those are some good ideas, Flat guide with rounded edges, to held guide it better. How about a more substantial blade shank, with a stronger adjusting screw. With a rosewood handle? Hmmmm, maybe my next tool. Anything else You'd change? Maybe a short version where your thumb rests on top of the blade, while the first two fingers straddle the guide post, to help guide the tool? Just an idea.

Ed

[Sharpshooter]

Pay close attention to the location of your tongue when using the groover...

I find that if I keep the first 13/16th of an inch clamped between my first premolar, second premolar and first molar with between 3 and 3.25 pounds of pressure on the side of my mouth opposite from the side of the workpiece it works perfectly.

It's simple... really.

[Hilly]

I don't have much trouble using the groover along a straight edge. I DO have problems however, grooving the edge of a circle. I have had better results holding the groover in a stationary position, and turning the leather circle beneath the groover blade.

I'm thinking about getting one of those groovers without the guide just to try out.

[TomSwede]

Hi Tom,

Those are some good ideas, Flat guide with rounded edges, to held guide it better. How about a more substantial blade shank, with a stronger adjusting screw. With a rosewood handle? Hmmmm, maybe my next tool. Anything else You'd change? Maybe a short version where your thumb rests on top of the blade, while the first two fingers straddle the guide post, to help guide the tool? Just an idea.

Ed

I'm really afraid that my retention screw will be flattened out soon. I am a natural born talent in doing just that to any screw wich may explain my probs with this tool further;-)

I did try standing today and worked with the angle of the tool and got some better results but knowing myself I'll probably flunk this tool a lot more because my mind drifts away when working. I also put more pressure to it and got sore fingers too.

Pay close attention to the location of your tongue when using the groover...

I find that if I keep the first 13/16th of an inch clamped between my first premolar, second premolar and first molar with between 3 and 3.25 pounds of pressure on the side of my mouth opposite from the side of the workpiece it works perfectly.

It's simple... really.

No wonder I have probs, I only know metric scales. A check on the conversion table should resolve this and then I handle it perfectly. Left side right!

Mike D (Twin oaks) came up with this idea.

Fuse the swivelknife border tool http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...?number=3204-00

with the freehand groover http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...number=88074-11

and I thought it was a cool idea so gonna check with my supplier if I can get it. Both tools separetly is welcome to my shop anyway so why not test it.

I wanna work with every little detail to make better results on lesser time and I seen some posts on people having troubles with skidding on top so aswell as working with perfecting working techniques I like to figure out shortcuts with the technical aids aswell. Who wouldn't choose Rob Beard stamps over craftools that doesn't sit straight on the stone?? My wallet currently decides that and getting better results any wich way I can will be a good to help to further investments or get my stuff out to customers faster wich is my main goal at the moment.

Tom

Tom

[ChuckBurrows]

This might help - I grind/file the lower edge to a 45° angle then polish smooth - here's a pic:

[ChuckBurrows]

try this - I grind/file the lower edge to a 45° angle then polish smooth - here's a pic..