Complete Beginner - Can Someone Look Over My Order (Am I Missing Anything?)

[pbj]

Hey guys-

I'm trying to make a simple case for my daily items (some paper/kindle/book) and decided to try my hand at it as I can't find one in a size I'm looking for. I'm trying to mimic this design as a launching ground: http://www.tannergoods.com/collections/all/products/document-folio-3 mostly because it looks simple enough to start toying around with and then go from there

In my Tandy cart, I have:

11310-53 - Button Stud 8mm Screwback Brass

1379-11 - Double Cap Rivets Small Solid Brass 100/pk

3101-00 - 2 lb. Mini Anvil

3779-04 - Buttonhole Leather Punch 5mm

8056-00 - Craftool Dot/Rivet Anvil

8076-03 - Craftool Edge Beveler Sz 3

8100-00 - Craftool Rivet Setter

99606-02 - Economy Single Shoulder 6 to 7 oz.

I already have straight edges/cutting boards/knives. Is there anything else I should add to my cart that I'm missing? Anything I should substitute out?

Thanks everyone!

[TXAG]

Ok, forget it then.

Edited December 28, 2013 by TXAG

[electrathon]

Don't buy the anvil, the rivets, the rivet setter, the rivet anvil. All of that is to se one rivet. Either use one chicago screw or sew the sot n the middle.

[electrathon]

tTanner Goods is in Portland, are you here too?

[pbj]

I wanted to try my hand on some cheap leather while I worked out my pattern and to practice my finishing. I plan to eventually buy a nicer piece

Re: rivets. Excellent advice... Don't know why I was so fixated on the rivet. Sewing isn't a bad idea.

The anvil I added because of the sale price, but I guess I don't need it. If there's any more advice like this, I'm all ears!

I'm actually in NY- I found out about tanner through a local shop that carries their dog leashes and collars.

Thanks again!

[electrathon]

OK, if you were in Portland I was going to tell you to show up tomorrow morning for project class.

[Dwight]

I saw one tool I would get if I were you, . . . it is called a plastic bone folder. It sells for about 6 bucks.

It will allow you to burnish the edges of your project, . . . and there looks like a lot of edge work on that particular type folder.

Some folks don't do anything but edge their leather projects, . . . I burnish mine also, giving them a smooth appearance, and making them smooth to the touch, which in the long run will make them much less apt to fray, get rough, and look like a hobo's grub sack.

That tool is real easy to use also, . . . after you have edged and sanded the project, . . . lay it flesh side down on your work surface, . . . select the right trough for the leather to ride in, . . . dampen the leather edge with water, . . . rub the tool back and forth, . . . it slicks the edge right nicely.

The tool looks (a side view) like the drawing, and it does a really nice job on 8 oz or lighter veggie tanned leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Northmount]

The little Tandy anvil is so useless, it can maybe be classed as a decoration. When you do go for an anvil, get something that is 15 to 20 lbs or more.

Tom

[Nuttish]

That Tandy economy shoulder will have a lot of flaws to work around and may not be big enough for what you need. The Tanner envelope is one piece of leather if I recall correctly.

Honestly, for what it's going to cost to make and the practice it will take to make it well enough, just call Tanner up on the fone and ask them to make you one in a bigger size. Lots of people draw their patterns in Adobe Illustrator so they can resize anything very easily. I suspect a bunch of Portland hipsters will be able to do you right if you ask nicely and give them some mustache wax.

Damn that would be lovely in 6/7 English bridle.

[Nuttish]

Also, the design is deceptively un-simple. Drawing that pattern will be a fun exercise.

Add a 1/2" Pippin punch to your shopping basket.

[Dwight]

On another website, . . . I found the dimensions of a Kindle as: "The size of the reading device is 7.5 inches by 5.3 inches by 0.7 inches".

The case you are wanting to make is very simple in it's design, . . . a basic cross that has some shaved corners.

If their dimensions are correct for your tablet, . . . the piece of leather you will need will be about 14 or 15 inches wide and about 19 inches long.

One of the first rules of leatherworking I use, . . . Always cut leather from a pattern ! And the underline is "Always".

So, . . . lets make a pattern: I use manila file folders, . . . get em on sale at the local office stores, . . . even got a box once which had blue, pink, yellow, green, grey, . . . that was a fun time

In picture 1, we have laid the tablet down and made sure we have enough file folder to go all 4 directions. I did this by taping an extra piece on the right hand side.

Picture 2 shows it outlined.

Picture 3 shows the outline, with my Ipad junior that I used for the pattern making.

Picture 4 shows a leather working technique, never cut a square inside corner if you can get away with it, . . . punch a round hole and cut away from the sides of that hole. This hole is about 1/2 inch in diameter.

Picture 5 shows the whole thing cut out and ready to check the fit.

Picture 6 shows the pattern folded and fitting around the tablet.

(Go to next post, . . . not enough room to finish here)

[Dwight]

Picture 6 also showed that I made an exective level 7 decision as to how much to bevel off the corners of the cross. Look at the pencil point, . . . that is where my eyeball said "this would look good right here" so I marked it there.

Picture 7 then shows that piece cut off, . . .

Picture 7 and 8 both show my technologically improved rounding corner device (a washer) which I used to trace the "roundness" I wanted for the corners.

NOTE: When I cut off that first corner, . . . I saved that piece, . . . it is then used as the pattern to cut the other 4 corners of the wider pieces. I then checked and found it would also work esthetically for the other two flaps, . . . so that first piece cut off, . . . is used for all the corners cut, . . . using also the washer to round the corners.

Picture 9 shows cutting the corners on the two end flaps

Picture 10 shows how the whole pattern looks when it is cut out.

Picture 11 is the pattern cut and folded around my Ipad with the top up.

Picture 12 is the pattern cut and folded with the top taped down, simulating it being closed and ready for carry.

You will find that you need to take your time making this, . . . do not get in a hurry, . . . and you will enjoy the process.

I would make my pattern, . . . take it to the leather store of your choice, . . . and have them help you pick out your piece of leather.

Personally, . . . I have had good luck with the shoulder leather I get from Tandy, . . . but then again, . . . I don't order it, . . . I personally go in, . . . pick it out, . . . looking at the front, back, and gauging the thickness with a dial caliper.

Yes, . . . I'm picky in choosing my leather, . . . but it makes a better product that way.

Welcome to the wonderful world of leathercrafting.

May God bless,

Dwight

[pbj]

Incredibly helpful! Thanks so much for the above - will really help me get started. I'm just now anxiously awaiting my order, but will be pattern-making in the meantime.

Will update everyone with how it goes!

[electrathon]

Actually if you look close the one dwight drew up, it is much better proportioned and layed out than the tanner goods one is. The corners are very important on a pattern.