Saddle Stitch Vs. Regular Stitch? And Sewing Tack ?s

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I have just purchased my first TechSew 3650 HD (super excited about it by the way) and am planning on making headstalls, breastcollars, halters, etc. I have previously been using an old Singer that has done a great job, just ready to move up to the big leagues. I have heard about using a "saddle stitch" and a regular stitch.... what is the difference between the two?

What is the typical thread size, stitch length, needle size that I should use for heavy harness leather from about 11-16oz thick for my tack? I have the needle that came with the machine, I believe they are 27 (if I am remembering correctly) and 207 thread. I remember there being a post about this but I cannot seem to find it to save my life.

Any help you would provide would be great! Thank you so much!

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Although his may be of assistance for future applications, you're probably best using 277 thread with a size 200/25 needle.


  • 415 Thread with a Size 250 Needle: Commonly used in rated products like logging, mining, and military nylon webbing and strapping.
  • 346 Thread with a Size 230/250 Needle: Commonly used for mule and other heavy duty tack. Also used in boot and shoe applications.
  • 277 Thread with a Size 200 Needle: Is the most commonly used thread size in leather crafting from saddle and tack, boot and shoe, gun and knife, and all other kinds of craft and industrial applications.
  • 207 Thread with a Size 180/200 Needle: A favorite size thread for saddle bags, purses, and other thin material crafting.
  • 138 Thread with a 160 Needle: Used mostly in belts, billfolds, purses and other thin material crafting.
  • 99 Thread with a 130 Needle and 69 Thread with a 110 Needle: Is seldom used in leather applications unless the stitch is not to be a major part of the final design. This combination is more commonly used in fabric, vinyl, and other thin material applications.

And this can be used to convert metric needle sizes:


Edited by MadMorbius

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A saddle stitch or hand stitch, is done by hand with two needles, one on end of a length of thread. Normal or Lock stitch is what is done by machine. While a saddle stitch is considered by many to be the best and strongest there is nothing wrong with a lock stitch. All your clothing is made with that stitch. There may be a machine out there that does saddle stitch but I am not aware of it.


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Thank you so much for the information! I really appreciate it and that helps ALOT! :cowboy:

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