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Here's a photo of a bag I just finished. The bucket is all one piece and handsewn.

I'm new to leatherworking, so my edges and my sewing are ok (i'm also my own worst critic), but I want it to be better.

Any suggestions on working with such a soft, stretchy leather in regards to edge burnishing and/or skiving?

Plus, what to seal and finish this leather with? I would love to maintain the lighter color (I know it will darken over time) and seal from water.

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Edited by Britkk

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Very nice bag!

Karina

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Looks very elegant. If it were mine, I would sew along the edge of both sides of the strap and maybe along the top of the bag itself.

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Any suggestions on working with such a soft, stretchy leather in regards to edge burnishing and/or skiving?

Plus, what to seal and finish this leather with? I would love to maintain the lighter color (I know it will darken over time) and seal from water.

Chrome tanned is soft and stretchy, veg tan is firm and hard. Chrome tan does not burnish, you can skive and fold and sew the edge for a finished look.

I would use a sealer like Dr Jacksons or Sno-seal. They are a waxy slime you rub on and then buff it back off.

Aaron

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Hi all,

Thanks for your input!

I usually sew the edges of my straps and add lining, but didn't on this one...I'm thinking of getting more of a strap leather (for shoulder strap) so that it cuts down on my hand sewing time.

I'll definitely look in to the sealers you mentioned Aaron!

The only reason I asked about burnishing as this was sold as milled veg tan at Springfield Leathers- i thought that meant no chrome? Either way, i need to invest in a skiver!

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Looks like you did an excellent job! I look forward to seeing more :wavey:

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The only reason I asked about burnishing as this was sold as milled veg tan at Springfield Leathers- i thought that meant no chrome? Either way, i need to invest in a skiver!

There are leathers that are veg tanned that are partially chrome tanned too. I do not know much about it, but it is my understanding they do it to speed up the tanning process.

Edited by electrathon

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Did you make your own pattern? I've been wanting to make a bag like this myself. I also hand sew everything I make and am still newish at leathercraft.

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Hi There

There is such a thing a genuine soft veg tan. I have a few scraps of it. It does indeed carve and stamp well. Mine is almost as soft as elk, definitely as floppy as chrome tan. I only have a precious few pieces so don't have much I am willing to sacrifice just to practice on at the moment as I want to make something with my pieces. It is hard to edge if your edger is as dull as mine. When I get a chance to burnish the edges of mine. I will try to remember to update. The floppyness is a challenge.

Buy the way your bag is very nice!

Here is a link to Tandy's version

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/milled-double-shoulders-9048-557.aspx

You can pretty much tell if something is veg tan as it will soak up water like a sponge and stamps will easily leave an impression on it when cased. Sorry I don't have an answer yet as to a finish for it right now. I am trying to experiment with a flexible water resistant finish that won't crack for my 3oz veg tan but am not happy yet.

Cheers, Toolingaround

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European style edge working is the only thing that really works on chrome tanned leather...

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Milled veg tan is hard to burnish. It doesn't edge well because it's soft. It doesn't burnish well either because it's soft. For softer leathers, you can paint the edges. If you don't like that look then you can skive and turn them. But then you would probably need a liner cause the backside doesn't look so good. You could bind it with another piece of leather but that's a different look altogether. If you're making an unlined, soft, milled leather bag then the look is kinda rustic already so it may be just fine to leave the edges raw.

Andrew

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I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it.

I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it.

I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it.

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Nice bag Britkk!

Hey Eemo please tell us more on the European style edge working. I work a lot in chrome leather and painting the edge (tried a variety of products) still does not look finished enough. Would love to see this method.

thanks!

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I have used milled veg tan in the past for making pouches for tobacco pipes. The milled leather is soft but burnishing it is no different than a firm veg-tan. Just dampen the edges and use a grooved burnishing stick. The edges will darken but will definitely be firmer. Using glycerin will also help.

I bought a bar of pure glycerin soap and cut it in thin slices, then put in a jar with water and shook it up really good. It looks like a foamy mess but let it sit over night and you end up with glycerin that is

soft and can be rubbed into the edges while burnishing.

It takes a bit more work since the leather has some give to it but holding it firmly while rubbing will do it. You can even form it around a shape if needed.

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