Need Help With A Three Ring Binder Project.

[veedub3]

I am currently working on a three ring binder with zipper case. I am following the instructions from the Stohlman Vol.2 cases book. I am trying to install the three ring binder and I am running into all kinds of issues.

First from searching the forums, I learned that it is easier if you just take the three ring mechanism from a regular notebook to use in your project. I did that, but I obviously didn't do it correctly as my three ring mechanism no longer functions properly. What is the best way to remove these from notebooks without damaging them?

Secondly, In the Stohlman book it states to attach the three ring mechanism with rivets. This simply bent the mechanism. I then read here to use Chicago screws. That didn't work for me either as the mechanism still won't open. (Well it will open if I pull the rings apart by hand, but not when using the tabs on each end. )

So I went back to the store to get another binder as clearly I have damaged this one, and I see that there is a slight gap between the three ring mechanism and the case.(See photo) I am thinking this is why the first one did not work because it was flat up against the case.

Now what I need help with is ideas on how to install the three ring mechanism so that it works once installed. Maybe a post of some sort that I am not familiar with, IDK, ideas on how to remove the three ring mechanism from the notebook without damaging it would be a big help as well.

Thanks in advance,

Karina

[King's X]

If you look underneath the mechanism you will see that there is a bar that controls the rings. I has to flow freely. I had to use chicago screws with spacers so you didn't have to screw it down tight. If you mechanism is bent...just dump it. I made the same mistake.

Just play with the mechanism as you install the screws. tighten it down a little bit at a time and try the rings. once you reached the point when they start to get hard to open stop and turn it back a few turns. Now create a leather spacer to take up any space left.

Good luck.

[veedub3]

Thank you King's X for your response, a leather spacer did come to mind. I will give your technique a try.

Thanks again,

Karina

[Eccho]

X2 That is definitely your problem, simply too tight. As for removing in the first place,the ones I have are machine riveted and would have to be drilled to be removed, just use a bit one size larger and drill off the head. I have seen just the workings for sale, I just can't bring to mind where....possibly Office Depot or some such office supply.

[bison]

I do the same as Eccho in drilling out the rivets...very carefully. You really need that little "standoff" that is part of the clip. So I drill from the outside only. Then I use flat head machine screws that fit my concho that I will use to secure it to my notebook. It will depend on the thickness of the leather and the clip, but I usually end up with about a 3/8". I also put a drop of superglue in the hole in the concho before securing it. That really helps keep it tight long term. I get the screws at Lowes. Just take the concho along to make sure they fit!

[JLSleather]

Rivets will work, they just need to be long enough that you don't "smoosh" the binder mechanism. Did the binder work in the folder you bought? How was it attached?

I just drill the rivet head off, the rest will pull out through the back once the rivet head is gone. After that you can attach it with a number of methods. I don't care for the steel "chicago" screws in leather. Most hardware stores willl have them in aluminum and brass, calling them "screw posts"

Oh, and I usually have the 'round' ones mounted to the spine, and the "D-style" mounted to the back -- each his own ...

Edited February 5, 2014 by JLSleather

[veedub3]

I have the rivet out of one side with the riser (or spacer) still in tack. That spacer is the key. This ring binder is 1/2" which is really tiny, and I have drilled all the way through and it is still giving me fits. (Why the customer requested it to be so small is beyond me) I am working on getting the other side off now.

I went back and re-read the instructions and on the actual diagram for installing the mechanism it clearly states to use long arm rivets. I missed that and I think I used medium rivets and it did just as described, It "smooshed" things too close together and the mechanism would not work properly. I prefer to use rivets, and with the riser still in tack, the Chicago screws I have on hand are too large in diameter and won't fit. Conchos are out of the question as I do not want anything showing on the outside of the case. I will keep at it and thank you all for your very helpful replies.

Karina

[Northmount]

Rivets or screws will work as long as you keep the standoff or make a new stand off. I had to make new standoffs for one I did. Used a combination of a 1/4" nut and a piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The nut against the leather to provide a larger surface area against the leather, flared the copper tubing and put the flare against the nut. The small end of the tubing fit into the space between the bars up tight against the main part of the mechanism.

I used the socket half of a Chicago screw, an 8-32 nickel plated brass oval head screw with the trim washer you often see used with leather or canvass. Used a drop of glue when tightening up the screw so it would come loose later and fall apart.

Maybe next time, I'll make a better standoff on the lathe, all one piece with a wide area to place against the leather, and narrow end to fit inside.

Tom

[veedub3]

Thank you! Thank You! Thank You all!

I got the binder off the notebook with the spacers intact. I got it installed on the leather spine piece using long arm rivets, and it is now ready to be sewn onto the lining material. So that I wouldn't risk bending the mechanism again when installing the rivets, I installed them using the arbor press. Easier than I thought!

Wow I have learned a lot with this project.

Thank you all again for your help.

Karina

[papaw]

The one I did, I used poprivet washers to back up the leather area between binder and leather, and chicago screws with lock tight.

[shtoink]

If you are needing a source for binders, check to see if there is a Goodwill nearby. I know that pretty much limits this advice to here in the lower 48, but that is what I am familiar with. I wouldn't be surprised at other second-hand shops having a similar stockpile.

I have been to many of these stores all over my state, and neighboring states when the occasion occurs, and they have plenty of the 3-ring binders for $0.99 or less. Considering you are ultimately pulling these binders apart to use just the 3-ringy part, as long as it functions and is obtained cheaply, does it matter what the cover looked like? Especially when you look at the cost of new one and that you are still experimenting.

I hope this helps open up a couple possibilities for you.