Best Needle Point For Clean Bobbin Side Stitch.

[MuddyClearWaters]

I have a singer 110W124 and I'm using diamond point needles. I'm trying to find out if there is a better type of needle point or a separate technique I don't know to make the bobbin side of my stitches look much cleaner and more like top side with less leather damage and exit wound looking holes? I'm going to be making a bunch of small cases and I want the stitch to look great on both sides..

Thanks

[Red Cent]

Interesting that no one has tried to answer your question.

Somewhat new to the craft, I have done a lot of research and asked questions about needle. It seems that the "leather needle" is usually referred to as diamond or chisel shape. I use an "S" needle. I dare say that a bunch use the S needle.

Having said that, I don't think you are going to find a machine that will dupilcate the top seam. I wish. I hope some experienced person will enlighten both of us.

[Ferg]

You can get very close with a little work. The tension needs to be perfect top and bottom. Needle must be exactly right size for the size thread you use. All feet on a triple feed need to be exactly right. When you hit the sweet spot you will be amazed.

Thin leather requires thread of "92" or "69" and smallest needle the thread will slide through easily. There are/have been, many different configurations on the needles but only a few are available these days. There are charts for shapes and type of stitch with different needles available.

One heads up!

If you have more than one machine you can devote to a particular type/thickness of leather you will eliminate a lot of headaches.

You can get very irritated when you change leather thickness or thread size along with needles if you only have one machine. Occasionally you get lucky.

ferg

[MuddyClearWaters]

You can get very close with a little work. The tension needs to be perfect top and bottom. Needle must be exactly right size for the size thread you use. All feet on a triple feed need to be exactly right. When you hit the sweet spot you will be amazed.

Thin leather requires thread of "92" or "69" and smallest needle the thread will slide through easily. There are/have been, many different configurations on the needles but only a few are available these days. There are charts for shapes and type of stitch with different needles available.

One heads up!

If you have more than one machine you can devote to a particular type/thickness of leather you will eliminate a lot of headaches.

You can get very irritated when you change leather thickness or thread size along with needles if you only have one machine. Occasionally you get lucky.

ferg

Thanks I've been using 138 which i'm discovering is too thick for the two machines i have. I'm getting them all dialed in with 92. and 69.

Hope to get another machine for #138.

[oltoot]

As to your question bottom = top. As you move up in wts to sew and look at adding another machine, give serious consideration to a needle/awl machine. I have a Singer 211G566 and a Union Lockstitch. I use the UL whenever I can and never worry about bottom stitch appearance except when it exceeds top.

[Red Cent]

Oltoot, I don't understand. Are you saying the bottom looks as good or better than the top?

[Cobra Steve]

Hello. Here is something else you might try. When you put the needle in the needle bar, you always put the long groove to the left, and the scarf to the right. It would look like 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock if sitting at the machine. Try twisting the needle so it would be at 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock and then try it at 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock. This will put the point at a different location when it enters the leather. If you go to far, either way, the machine will skip stitches. Sometimes this works. There are no "S" point needles for your machine, so this technique is one of your options. By the way, you can do this on most every machine. Steve

[oltoot]

Oltoot, I don't understand. Are you saying the bottom looks as good or better than the top?

That's what I mean, in fact I sew some things from the bottom side.

[Wizcrafts]

That's what I mean, in fact I sew some things from the bottom side.

I agree. I have owned two ULS machines and both produced bottom stitches almost the same as the top. Presser foot pressure, awl angle, thread size and the width of the slot in the throat plate all play a part in the bottom appearance.

[Trevor]

Have you tried the 794 LR needles. They cut a hole on an angle to the leather which allows the stitch to lay nicely. They also look good from the back side. Its the needle that will be 2 o'clock 8 o'clock configuration. That's the cut style. The only way to achieve perfection on both sides is to hand stitch. cheers TRK

Edited February 20, 2014 by Trevor