How To Make Own Boots (Some Lessons From My Own Experience)

[BorisVanJr]

Hello!

Let me present to you my third work. My first work were these boots http://leatherworker...showtopic=45616, design Merrell Chameleon Wrap, and the second, running shoes, design Garmont Escape PRO 9.81, on photo bellow.

And here shoes numbered 3, with my own design and own logo, which will be discussed here and manufacturing technology, which I would like to share with you.

The first thing I began with - design, available materials and furniture. Despite all this, you can correct design subsequently as I did.

I began the design with a clean sheet of paper. Sketched a few pictures I settled on this design, considering the design features and attachment parts sequence - this is important , otherwise it will be impossible to attach it properly. It is also important to think about where and how will shape the bend. To improve inflection, I used an extra pair of belt loops on the shoe vamp. Here demonstrated only one of many possible designs of shoes, the rest depends on your imagination.

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"By approving the project" could begin. Put all materials on shoe last (except upper material) in the right amount and manner as they would be in the finished shoe. It is necessary to put a thickness of insole and middle sole. For further winding of shoe last, use masking tape 20-25mm wide, wider is not recommended. Masking tape should stick well, but not to be wax outside, otherwise it will be bad stick and when removing the shell it can lose shape.

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Glue tape needs with a little overlap, preferably without wrinkling. After sticking enough thickness of tape, insert shoe last in the outer sole and outlines the level to the visible part, below which all will hide.

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We should also mark the axial lines, front and rear. Now we can begin to design. Draw is best with conventional ballpoint pen, using gentle pressure and instead of the eraser, use pieces of masking tape. Underway, you can change the design somewhat, if in dimension will not like something. Since the right and left side is not quite the same, move all lines using vellum, for example, you will not succeed. Help you centerlines and tailor measuring tape. After completion, you must draw harder all the necessary lines, to avoid confusion.

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Using sharp knife, making slit at axial lines and lower edge, to divide into two parts. By dividing, cut along the contour, including the toe cup as the most convex part. Parts became more flat, but they still can not be cut, they must be glued on thick paperboard, while leveling and cropping. More detailed process describes here http://www.youtube.c... for shoes&sm=3

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Now is necessary to make slits on lines for creating patterns.

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Creating patterns is most responsible for connection all parts. Using the main patterns make all external parts. It is necessary to consider all overlaps, overmeasure and mark centerlines. You should also specify the right and left sides, as well as the front to each side.

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After making all patterns, you can begin to cut material. Also note, if were made ​​some amendments to the upper, it is necessarily to make them on patterns.

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I have a regular sewing machine (Singer copy), therefore the manufacturing technology reminds classic shoes, where is no need of a post sewing machine. I made some improvements for greater sewing accuracy and larger thickness. I replaced original hand driven mechanism and attached own lever directly on the wheel. Instead of three stitches per one revolution, now it makes one (used for hand sewing of large thickness). Undergone revision and presser foot, making it narrower and shorter, increased downforce, improved visibility and accuracy. Needle used conventional 110, although it is better to use reinforced for leather, thread polyester 40.

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Before sewing, machine needs to be adjusted for a specific material thickness and test on a separate piece. My primary material is haberdashery suede 1-1.2 mm thick.

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Should start with the basic parts, on which is necessary to mark those details, which will be sewn first. Because of the sliding effect and high downforce of the presser foot, one material slides relative to another, I found a simple solution for this problem, parts before sewing, I gluing together after what, concentrating on precision stitching.

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Since suede is not for footwear, however, it is strong enough, to provide proper rigidity of some parts I’m using 1mm thick cotton fabric.

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Having measured braid using patterns, glue and sew them, then you can sew the side part. Do the same with the second half and then sew together both parts. Stitch on these parts is 2.5-3mm.

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After receiving a single piece (upper), it’s ready to make a heel cap. Since I did not have a proper shoe last (proper shoe last on pictured below), I made a separate billet for forming the heel, but with a normal shoe last is done directly on it. Cut two pieces of cotton fabric, stretching and gluing together with SAR 306. When dried, transfer lines with pattern and cut.

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Then glue it on heel in folded position on shoe last and sew it with stitch 2.5-3mm.

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Now you can begin with layer over the heel of polyurethane foam and lining. There are no patterns for these parts, so lay out on the shoe last, blank sheet of paper, draw around the top and cut. There no corrections for polyurethane foam, but lining must be recalculated - 1mm suede + 3mm polyurethane foam + 3mm wool interlayer + 4mm lining allowance = minimum 11mm total must be added to the upper contour, on which will be sewn lining. This is necessary to ensure that all will twist neat.

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Sew need right by the polyurethane foam, for smooth edge, stitch 1.8-2mm. For insulation using natural wool, material thickness about 3 mm, the same material used on the first boots. Gluing with SAR 446, applying thin layer on wool and suede. The photo shows masking tape, 5-8 mm to the edge, where wool layer will be needed to cut.

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Then gluing lining with SAR 446, also applying thin layer.

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All excess need to be cut and sewn, on that edge, where the masking tape was. At this stage, the shoe begins to appear. As can be seen on the photo, it keeps form well, but the final forming will be at the very end.

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When the upper is ready, next part you need to continue - tongue. There also no patterns, but you can estimate the length using upper, the width of the tongue I took from my sport shoes - 100mm. Gap width in the shoe vamp is 40mm, respectively adding 6mm allowance, will be enough for sewing. On a sheet of paper draw everything and make pattern, cut the mesh and lining without any overmeasure. Put some polyurethane foam (about 3mm) on the tongues top (for thickness and strength) and sew together mesh with lining face to face. Then glue mesh with wool layer and extroversion.

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Cut a piece of suede, glue and sew. Mark the braid and sew.

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Connect together tongue and upper with clearance 40mm using SAR 446 and then sew together stitch to stitch. Mark border of the toe cap on upper and glue with SAR 446 along the edge, as well as toe cap, connect and sew, stitch is 2.5-3mm.

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Now put the upper on the shoe last, I leave allowance in 20mm for bend under the shoe last, only for upper, side parts, heel and toe cup should be in the slice with the bottom.

After toke the upper, cut out the toe reinforcement from cotton fabric, glue with SAR 306, tighten in place. Once again, make sure that upper is in the right position, remove the staples and glue. Cut off all suede relief and glue suede center part. When it's all ready, it's time to form the shoe. We need to warm all shoe parts, that has inside cotton fabric and tap with a hammer, to complete forming. After that, shoe will keep the shape for a along time.

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Basically shoe are ready for gluing outer sole, but I would like to stamp on it own logo. To do this, take a picture of the shoe from the side, where logo will be, open the vector program Corel Draw, import photo, create a logo in scale and print on plain paper. Take sticky film Oracal, and cut out the logo with sharp knife, slot only to the film substrate. Unstick from the film unnecessary parts and glue masking tape over all parts. Cut and stick the logo in its place. Carefully remove the masking tape, leaving all separate pieces in place. Glue around with masking tape to avoid smudge of shoe. Preparation is completed and we are ready for rubber coating. As rubber coating I’m using SAR 306 and 30-40% of aluminum powder (for metallic effect). Using brush, apply thin layer and let it dry for a couple of hours. With precision knife cut glue on film edges for smoothness of the logo edges without rips. Due to a thin layer of coating it obtained fairly resistant to damage.

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Finishing stage, gluing the outer sole. Left the upper on shoe last and insert it in outer sole, outline with pen about 1mm below the level of the outer sole. Apply SAR 306 on surface, coat over line and let it dry. The outer sole is made from thermoplastic and I need degrease it with special composition Satreat and only then glue it. When the glue dries, it does not stick at all, conversely it's slides. Insert shoe in the outer sole, heat bottom side with hairdryer and press for a few seconds. Then you can easy heat side parts and tap with hammer. By this way it’s easy to make clean connection between upper and outer sole.

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After a few hours, you can remove shoe from the shoe last. It remains only to make insole. For insole I am using - 2mm thick polyurethane foam, 3mm wool interlayer and 3mm lining.

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Glue the insole on its place and do all the same with the second shoe and enjoy your work.

When placing this article on other sites link to this forum is required.

Sorry for not exact terminology and not perfect english. Good luck!

[srminimo]

Here I am trying to figure out how to do the patterns for a hard sole moccasin and I run into this. I gonna retire...

Great job!

[Matt T]

I think this is the most impressive thing I've ever seen on this forum. Wow!

[leatheroo]

such an impressive tutorial...very generous, very detailed...many thanks.

[DavidL]

Im making a pair of shoes myself, nothing this hard though. Some tips from you will be nice, as you have more knowledge than I do.

For the white poly liner how did you get the pattern, Im a bit confused.

Quote:There no corrections for polyurethane foam, but lining must be recalculated - 1mm suede + 3mm polyurethane foam + 3mm wool interlayer + 4mm lining allowance = minimum 11mm total must be added to the upper contour, on which will be sewn lining. This is necessary to ensure that all will twist neat.

How did you get the recalculation of 11mm extra. Is that the thickness of all all the leathers and the poly has to compensate? The sewing to get that turned edge how do you achieve that. I managed to get it done, not knowing the basics or how it is suppose to be done correctly and the results were okay.

Sar 446 and 306 are these loctite brand or a industrial standard glue?

Most impressive project on leatherworker I have to say.

[BorisVanJr]

Thanks you all, glad that information are useful. When i was trying to make my first shoes http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=45616, it was no information about how to make modern hi tech shoes at home, especialy without professional machines, that's why i thought to share some own experience. A few days ago I finished new hiking shoes http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2238

For the white poly liner how did you get the pattern, Im a bit confused.

Simply put some piece of paper on shoe last and then cover it with sewed together these parts http://i-fotki.info/16/5219ef1170d88daf885f5eac7e103a4f2eacf5174033616.jpg.html, draw contour and then add thickness of materials you using, thats all.

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Sar 446 and 306 are these loctite brand or a industrial standard glue?

Its Kenda professional glue for shoemakers. Can be used any kind of brands, I only showed the type of glue.

[TheLogan]

Hi BorisVanJr

Those shoes are really impressive. I've been wanting to make my self a pair of hiking/work boots, though I must admit I'm into something a little more classical looking than yours. But one thing I would like to know is, where did you get the soles for your shoes?

[TexasJack]

Somehow I missed this when it was first posted. One of the most detailed projects I've ever seen! Amazing!

[Paulsleather]

Wow, the patience needed for a project like that blows my mind. Keep posting your work and those fabulous tutorials!!

[BorisVanJr]

Thanks,

I bought those soles here http://www.lvivplast.com/ in Ukraine (i living here), it will be impossible to you The Logan by them here. Where to by i dont know, you can try to find in the US, it will be better for you.

I done some new hiking shoes for a few month ago using the same technology, aweryone can watch them here http://shoemasters.org/forum/gallery/image/595-trekingovie-krossovki-4/

Edited September 7, 2014 by BorisVanJr

[TheLogan]

Ah, ok.
Well, I found a supplier in Poland, which is inside of eu (I live in europe, so america is just too expensive) =)

[BorisVanJr]

Ah, ok.

Well, I found a supplier in Poland, which is inside of eu (I live in europe, so america is just too expensive) =)

I just thought that you live in US, that's why i recommended, but it's nothing said on your profile where are you from. Good luck))

Edited September 9, 2014 by BorisVanJr

[TheLogan]

Yeah, it's no problem, and thanks =)

I just bought Moulding making alginate and some sort of plaster material so I can make my own lasts =P
Can't wait to get started =D

[tossik]

просто супер!

[tossik]

How much is one pair of soles like that in Ukraine?

[BorisVanJr]

Hi, shoe soles like this are made from not so good quality thermoplastic material, they cost about 5-7$ and they strongly rubbed. There are another soles in the same prise range made from polyurethane foam (i used them on my first boots and hiking shoes on photo below) which are maybe not so good looking but lighter and more robust.