sharkeyfinn Report post Posted February 19, 2014 hi everyone, i had my first custom order this week,which i was pleased about, however, the customer wanted the antique tan finish,and this happened i applied the antique gel with a dry dauber, and didnt notice any blemishes in the leather before i applied the dye, but this was the result, needless to say the customer wasnt interested in buying this,which was disheartening as i had carved a dog or her choice into it, however, i decided to try a work around and came up with this happily the customer saw this on my facebook page and swore at me (in a nice way ;-) ) and wants to buy it again. obviously i would like to avoid the above problem.so any hints would be much appreciated . ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted February 20, 2014 I would use denatured alcohol on the fresh leather and after that neatsfoot oil. If you see any sign after that then let the neatsfoot oil soak in for a couple of days and then try a deglazer.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) I would use denatured alcohol on the fresh leather and after that neatsfoot oil. If you see any sign after that then let the neatsfoot oil soak in for a couple of days and then try a deglazer.. X2, great advice from Tree Reaper, I also clean my leather usually with Oxalic Acid (I use Barkeepers Friend which is available in most Lowes, Home Depot, etc, then mix 3 teaspoons of it to 1 pint of distilled water, dissolves easily, just shake), I use a sponge and wet it in the mixture, then "scrub" lightly, then I wipe the surface again with clean water to remove any remaining chemical. It will remove most impurities, some of yours looked to be abrasions, hard to tell from a photo, but if that's the case, then it's just bad leather. I look for abrasions, marks, etc when I start wetting the leather for the casing process, but it doesn't always show all of them up. Tree Reapers advice will identify most inconsistencies in the leather. I just noticed that the marks on yours is spaced and looks sort of like finger prints, you or someone else may have handled the leather with something on their hands, finish, gum tragacanth, just about anything. Hope that helps, Chief Edited February 20, 2014 by Chief31794 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geneva Report post Posted February 20, 2014 That is the leather not the finish you applied. I don't think it will l come off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 20, 2014 An old carpenter mentor's favorite saying (one of them anyway) was that the expert was NOT the one who did not make mistakes: he was the one who figured out how to do something with it so it didn't look like a mistake. Your black "2nd effort" proved that point. Good job, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Palermo Report post Posted February 20, 2014 Which leather did you use? Looks like economy grade leather and it will almost always do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 20, 2014 That is the leather not the finish you applied. I don't think it will l come off. I agree. The color pulled the imperfections that were already there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toolingaround Report post Posted February 21, 2014 Hi There Just a thought, if that was an antiquing gell you used you don't mention first applying a resist of any sort. If I aply my feibings acrylic antique on naked leather. That is what happens unless I use a resist first. I use leather sheen rubbed on thinly with a sponge most often (a couple of coats, be sure to gently wipe off any pooling or bubbles with a dry bit of the sponge). I can only afford crap leather but using a resist helps. Even if it says "all in one finish" I don't believe it. I use a resist for antiquing. I like your fix though it looks great. Cheers, Toolingaround Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craftsman827 Report post Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) It's not a good idea in my opinion to use antique finish on naked leather. First dye it light tan, than a coat of leather balm,buff, than apply the antique finish. That's why it's called finish. Learned that from, Paul Burnette. PS, also you could use the oxalic acid FIRST, like the chief said !!!! LOVE THE LABRADOR. Edited February 21, 2014 by craftsman827 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sharkeyfinn Report post Posted February 21, 2014 thanks everyone, i think the nail has been hit squarely on the head, i have been using the gel as dye/stain, instead of a highlighter, i did wonder why it took so much work to get an even coat ;-), im pleased, its another valuable lesson learned. thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dumfist Report post Posted February 23, 2014 I find that the antiques and hi-liters can be used for some interesting effect if used as a dye-like colorant (without any undercoats or resists). However, it takes patience and several coats to get something that looks good What happened here though is more than likely like others have said, because of imperfections in the leather grain causing unintended uneven absorption. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites