Chief31794 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) Short answer yes; a little more info: Copper is a good comprimise between solid brass and the tubular nature of rapid rivets, which most definitely have their place ie securing the terminus of a line of stitching, especially on lighter materials. Properly set, CRs become lifetime anchors even holding after ends are mostly worn off. Maybe my answer was too short, Copper Rivets 9's or 12' are solid post, tubular rivets are very thin walled in comparison and the mushrooming under the cap can't come close to comparing with peening over the burr. I have worked on some 75-100 year old mule tack for the Georgia Museum of Agriculture and while some of the leather was deteriorating, the copper rivets were still holding tight and were a pain in my, you know, to get out to replace parts of the tack. I have to make sure I stay historically correct and do, but I use copper as opposed to tubular cap rivets anytime I'm looking for a super strong hold. Tubular rivets hold well if set well, however, the question was are copper rivets stronger than the solid brass tubular rivets as I understand it, the answer is absolutely. Tubular rivets are so thin you can mushroom the tops with out much effort, if you decide to use copper #9 or #12 you better bring a real hammer. Chief Edited March 10, 2014 by Chief31794 Quote "Life's too short to carry ugly leather"
Members footrat Posted July 20, 2014 Members Report Posted July 20, 2014 I use 1" #12's, and I drive the setter with a 16 oz. framing hammer. The striking surface of my setter has mushroomed down a LOT. I peen with a ball pein hammer, and then dome again using the setter/doming tool. I finish by flattening the top of the dome with the framing hammer. Quote
Members WyomingSlick Posted July 20, 2014 Members Report Posted July 20, 2014 I use 1" #12's, and I drive the setter with a 16 oz. framing hammer. The striking surface of my setter has mushroomed down a LOT. I peen with a ball pein hammer, and then dome again using the setter/doming tool. I finish by flattening the top of the dome with the framing hammer. Well, for darn sure you need to dress up that mushrooming with a grinder or file.. They only give you one pair of eyes and you can't really buy replacements that work well, ya know. ! Quote (John 8:32) And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free. (KJV) And the truth is that religion is nothing more than the lame attempt by largely ignorant people to bring sense and order to a world that was beyond their comprehension. Once you see religion for the delusional and superstitious artifact it is............... you will be free !
Members Spence Posted July 24, 2014 Members Report Posted July 24, 2014 I use nothing but solid brass and solid stainless steel rivets anymore. I get the "shallow" hole ones that are hollow about halfway down. The walls are quite thick, in comparison to the tubulars. I have a hand clincher that I use that has a dome that fits inside that hollow part and fans out the end of the rivet over the burr or washer. Like the copper, you need to just about destroy the leather to get the rivet out. If anyone wants to know resources, let me know. Quote Spence Mendoza, TX, USA
Members whipstitchwallets Posted July 24, 2014 Members Report Posted July 24, 2014 I haven't worked with rivets before. I am entertaining purchasing a tool that would let me make my own rivets out of copper wire. Does anyone use something like this? What additional tools would I need to set them? Just a hammer? Thanks in advance Quote
Members Andrew Chee Posted July 24, 2014 Members Report Posted July 24, 2014 Go check out Sheridan leather. They have the best rivet setting tools I've used. Andrew Quote
Members camano ridge Posted July 24, 2014 Members Report Posted July 24, 2014 (edited) Do a search on these forums. I will see if I can find it someone on here was making a die for making CR s with copper wire. Here is contact info for the guy that makes a die for different sized copper rivets with wire. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55482&hl=%2Bcopper+%2Brivet+%2Bdie Edited July 25, 2014 by camano ridge Quote https://www.facebook.com/CamanoRidgeCustomLeather?fref=ts
Members ChicoAlum Posted August 22, 2017 Members Report Posted August 22, 2017 On 3/9/2014 at 7:17 PM, Andrew Chee said: If you want even stronger, you can try brass rivets. Those really won't break. Pain to cut the stems though. Andrew Hey there... I realize this is an old thread, but i just bought a bag of solid brass rivets. How hard are they to cut? Will standard end cutting pliers do the trick? Quote
Members JerseyFirefighter Posted August 22, 2017 Members Report Posted August 22, 2017 I have some beefier linesman pliers (I think they're the same thing) that measures 10" long. Copper rivet stems can be nipped somewhat easily with one hand. Brass with my pliers need just a little more grip but can still be cut with one if not two hands. Quote Rob www.ridgewayleatherworks.com IG: @Ridgewayleatherworks FB: RidgewayLeatherworks
Members Dwight Posted August 23, 2017 Members Report Posted August 23, 2017 Given the choice between copper and brass, . . . I'll take the copper every time. I've NEVER had a copper rivet fail, . . . actually never have ever heard of one doing so. But brass can and will break, . . . I've done it many times with brass rods. Copper bends but does not break. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
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