stanly Report post Posted April 16, 2014 At least that's what I'm expecting to see when I get there. I know that sititch length is important to check on these - with any particular thickness leather? Other things to check? Is there such a thing as long arm or big bobin in this generation? and how would I recognize it? IF there is a big bobin is it worth paying more for? For some strange reason seller says she wants to keep the stand - how much to deduct for that? Thx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted April 16, 2014 The older machines (29-4s) use a very small bobbin, the newer ones just have a small bobbin. There are different arm lengths. Unless you have a spare stand, I would not want it without the stand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 16, 2014 The 29-4 only came in short arm and small bobbin configuration. It wasn't until the second generation 29k models that they introduced the larger bobbin and longer arm options, along with a removable gear box and a top adjuster for the amount of thread take-up on the upstroke. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stanly Report post Posted April 18, 2014 Ques about Singer 29-4 stitch length and presser foot pressure: I've got the manual out and I'm looking over the top of the machine at a rectangular bar that has a slider w/wingnut at one end of bar and a knurled knob w/knurled locknut toward the other end. Are these the stitch length and presser foot pressure adjustments respectively? Because I can't seem to get machine to feed even though I've screwed down the knob (clockwise) 2 1/2 turns. There are marks on the vegtan and I can see the foot moving forward and back, but it doesn't seem to be getting a grip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted April 18, 2014 The stitch length is the square thing just above the foot,the lower you adj it the longer the stitches.The knurled screw is the foot pressure adj.,the wingnut lifts the foot so it clears the leather as it goes foward.You can usually push the wingnut part as far towards the center of the spring as it will go & leave it.You might need to get a new foot as the teeth get dull after while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stanly Report post Posted April 18, 2014 good to know that I'm at least on the right adjustment-I'll check on the bottom of foot when I get home tonight. thx for speedy reply Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stanly Report post Posted April 20, 2014 OK, i've got it sewing (8spi on 1/8" leather). Next issue may or may not be mostly cosmetic, when I t ook off the cover plates for oiling there seems to be rust on everythng except the cam roller. I'm sure correct amount of rust is 0 but is there a poinnt where I should just live with it or is it automatically take apart and clean? On cleaning I suppose wire brushing followed by naval jelly would be the way to go? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 20, 2014 OK, i've got it sewing (8spi on 1/8" leather). That indicates that either the presser foot is not lifting the proper height to move forward all the way, or that the sliding stitch length regulator on the presser foot shaft is too high up, or that the feed motion cam is completely worn out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stanly Report post Posted April 21, 2014 That indicates that either the presser foot is not lifting the proper height to move forward all the way, or that the sliding stitch length regulator on the presser foot shaft is too high up, or that the feed motion cam is completely worn out. Ok, I can lookl into some of those. Feed motion cam sounds difficult and expensive? Thought 8/inch was pretty good what should I be going for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 21, 2014 Ok, I can lookl into some of those. Feed motion cam sounds difficult and expensive? Thought 8/inch was pretty good what should I be going for? If the sliding stitch regulator "puck," which fastens behind the foot, is as far down as it can go, with the foot lifted by the hand lift lever, and the foot lifter block on the rear mounted torsion spring is as far to the center as possible, and the feed motion cam is not worn out, the machine should easily sew 5 to the inch, into 8 ounces of leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stanly Report post Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) stitch regulator puck-down (moved a little) foot lifter block-to center end of travel (have plenty of lift)Now have 7/inch Feed motion cam- sounds difficult and expensive? Think I've read comment that Toledo Ind. sewing machine has parts for these machines. I'll get them on ph tomorrow. Edited April 22, 2014 by stanly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 22, 2014 Your 100+ year old patcher has a worn down feed motion cam. The parts can only be replaced by taking them from other. less worn Singer patch machines. Bob Kovar (Toledo Industrial) has as many parts for patchers as anybody I know on this continent. The old part must be removed from the bottom of the barrel shaped front of the machine. This probably means disassembling the needle bar from the take-up barrel on the top. Use caution when pounding the tapered steel plug out. Bob can advise you about disassembling the head in order to get the front off, then the feed motion ring and cam. You would be farther ahead just taking or shipping the machine head to him, in Toledo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
