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Found 11 results

  1. (Full disclosure: I know parts for both models' are pretty much discontinued for the most part but this was a foray into what may or may not work ) I just completed partial rebuild of each model, 29-4 circa 1915 and Adler 30-1 circa "who knows"(black paint/cast iron stand, no decals) feed motion area and thought I'd pass on what I found. Stitch length was far from optimal but little or no play in either of the machines' Driving Lever(s) so I felt driver cam was within functional specs. I noticed Kunpeng Sewing(CKPSMS) sells both a Feed Motion Ring (simanco 82053) and Bell Crank Lever (82167) on E-bay. Prices were reasonable so I bought 2 Feed Motion Rings and Bell Crank Levers to see if they would work. Feed Motion Ring The Feed Motion Rings came without cam follower rollers (they now sell them as a set) so I contacted CKPSMS outlining the issue but got no response. A couple of months later I see the roller and stud assembly (ckpsms #1816) listed at a disposable price so I purchased two. These rollers are clearly marked as being 10mm dia O.D., the description and pictures of the assembly are completely accurate. Being lazy, (I prefer to think of this as "Time Efficiency" but....) I mic'd the roller (rather than the Feed Motion Cam Wheel race the roller rides in) from a well-worn 29K-60 sixty-something year old original Feed Motion Ring I'd previously replaced at 9.79mm O.D. thinking 2.0+mm wear was expectable. It's not... at least not for the 29-4 or 30-1. Both races mic out at 9.79-9.80mm. If anyone has a 29K Feed Motion Cam Wheel (p/n 82149) in good shape I'd appreciate the actual race width measurement at the narrowest part for comparison. I'm guessing the original Simanco roller was probably 25/64" O.D. (ish… mebbe??). The problem doesn't end there; the replacement roller stud has a cir-clip retaining ring and receiver machined into it extending the roller shaft by about 1.5mm. This doesn't allow the assembled FMR to seat into head casting. The Simanco FMR's I've seen have either a free floating roller or the stud is peened almost flush to capture the roller. Easy enough to remedy with a grinder once a properly sized roller is procured but the mounting nut on the other side may also have to be ground flush. I had a FMR from another vendor (Pilgrim or Shoe System Plus probably) that I ended up using in the 29-4. The Adler retained its original FMR. (a new Bell Crank Lever removed all apparent slop) Bell Crank Lever The BCL worked in the 29-4 but bound the needle bar in the Adler as it returned. A lot of creative grinding/polishing later and a couple screw fabrications* and the Adler too had longer stitch lengths. Basic mod was to remove the gore (sloping metal casting) transitioning from the lever bar to the ring making it a clean right (90 deg) angle and thinning the outer wall of the lever's needle bar guide ring to allow full angular motion. Net-net... I now have 2 new Feed Motion Ring and roller assy's (un-usable) languishing in my spare parts bin and a spare Bell Crank Lever should I ever need them *in my case the pivot screws from the worn Adler BCL were a different thread than the Kunpeng which appear to be 6-40 ncf.
  2. I have a Singer 29-4, circa 1902, S/N K3403-02 While working to restore this machine we have met several challenges but thanks to the web we've been able to fix most of the issues. We have reached one that we can't seem to solve and are desperately hoping that someone here can advise us. The issue is that the needle thread will not capture the bobbin thread. We aren't sure if the shuttle needs to be realigned or is there something that we missed? We haven't been able to find anything definitive that explains how to set the timing for this specific machine. Thank you in advance for ANY help. Sincerely, Nancy & Jeff
  3. I have seen a lot of 29-4 machines. I have rebuilt two of them. The decals are pretty easy to identify on all the machines parts and sides, including the arm. When restoring the decals with water slide, its pretty easy to compare and confirm the accuracy of the decals, but the arm decal may have been different than I originally thought. My friend recently purchased a 29-4 that we both agreed the machine has unusually low miles. He ordered the decals and discovered that the arm decal did not match. Attached is an image. It is the result of a communication between the owner and a known decal supplier. It reflects the decal companies graphic rendition of his 29-4 decal with the change in red. The gold represents what is currently offered for 29-4 decal restoration and matches ALL of the machines I have ever seen, until now. The company has indicated they will send him an adjusted decal by making an "extension" or "upgrade" to match his machine. My thought is -The arm decal on his machine is what the original 29-4 decal must have looked like. It is LONGER than what is generally understood and that makes sense. The arm on these machines would have been subjected to the most abuse, especially towards the bobbin end. They were commercial machines, right? A 29-4 machine with an entire arm decal in tact for the purpose of decal restoration may be very hard to find? Thoughts? Has anyone ever seen a decal on a 29-4 this long? To be clear, its is not a 29k model and has the short arm. The serial Number puts it around 1910-1915 I think. Since this exchange has taken place, we both have been looking for 29-4 machines with original decals this long and have only found one candidate. (its the pintrest link) NOTE: The company has indicated that they will make available this newer version going forward as an optional decal for this machine. I'm not interested in naming the company because I don't want to imply I'm speaking on their behalf, but this is good information I wanted to share and get feedback. I'm not an expert on decals or even the 29-4, but I think this is new information. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/373446994077356864/
  4. Hello. Recently pulled out my greatgrand mother singer 29-4 with my son-in-law that wants to start learning leather and sewing. The old 29-4 had been sitting for so long I forgot the table is gone. Does any one know where might locate a table assemble for the 29-4. Thanks for your input.
  5. Hi everybody! I'm currently looking for a sewing machine (medium weight), specifically for a big'ol patcher, and came across some chinese 29K clones (that looks post apocalyptic) on ebay, at a pretty low price. This is the machine: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leather-Sewing-Machine-Shoe-Patcher-Singer-29K-Adler-Repair-Cobbler-Antique-/200876595581?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item2ec52d997d&_uhb=1#shId Anybody has experience with it?
  6. First of I'm new to the forums, my name is Jordan and I just started getting into leather craft like a month or two ago. I originally wanted to make motorcycle seats but the more I've been messing around I've been wanting to make different things! that being said, I just bought a super clean singer 29-4. I ordered some #69 bonded nylon and it finally came in today. I've been trying to mess around and get the machine to sew in some 2-4oz vegtan single layer but the thread will go in the first hole then just lay across the rest of the holes. I read somewhere that if it does that the tension is too loose, but the shuttle is as tight as it will go and if I tighten the disks anymore the thread stops. But when I try to sew denim it sews almost perfect. Am I missing something??? I'd appreciate any help or info! Thank you!
  7. I have a 29-4 machine with base in working condition. $600.00 Will ship at you expense. Email or call me for photos Dan 201-220-8488 Northwest New Jersey .
  8. Hi, I am just starting to learn how to sew and recently purchased a Singer 29-4 Patcher. I have a few questions: 1. Today I learned that a 29-4 is not the same as a 29K4. Is this accurate? 2. It isn't easy to find replacement parts for the 29-4 vs. the 29K4. Part for the 29K4 are still being manufactured. Is this correct? 3. I haven't sown with my machine yet. I need to purchase Thread. www.horsenhaeness.com recommends #138 thread with #69 for the bobbin. Will be learning to sew jacket patches and thin leather projects. Would anyone else agree with this recommendation? 4. Any recommendations for using the machine would be appreciated. Machine is in good condition. Thank you in advance for your help. Anthony New Jersey
  9. Hi All! I have a 29-4 for sale. I have not used it much and can use the space in the shop for a different tool. The machine has been serviced at Reichart here in Phoenix. It could use a little "Love" as far as cosmetics/paint. The stand appears to be the original Treadle Stand and all parts function. Photos show that it does sew and does do a pretty nice stitch I have 6 extra bobbins and a pkg of needles. The Leather belt could use some adjusting (tightening) The Machine is located in North Phoenix AZ. at my shop. I would prefer not to get involved in shipping, I would rather that you be local, or passing through Phoenix, or close enough to pick up. Price "picked up" at my shop $550.00 I am not interested in trades unless you have a Clicker Thanks for looking Rick 623 / 271 / 33O9
  10. At least that's what I'm expecting to see when I get there. I know that sititch length is important to check on these - with any particular thickness leather? Other things to check? Is there such a thing as long arm or big bobin in this generation? and how would I recognize it? IF there is a big bobin is it worth paying more for? For some strange reason seller says she wants to keep the stand - how much to deduct for that? Thx
  11. I picked this sewing machine up at an auction and it has potential to have history with my family, the gentleman that brought it in dug it out of the attic of his parents old general store, which was next door to my grandparents on my fathers side, who ran a shoe repair shop. I haven't been able to confirm that it belonged to them but it's interesting none the less.
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