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Posted

I´m not an electrician but yellow / green is alway earth and the other 2 do not matter where you put them on. At least in Germany but if you don´t know how to do it ask an electrician.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

OK! The point is that some servos, actually the control box, needs to be 0. If you put the lead there you might destroy the circuit card! In GB you can only put in the plug one way in Germany two ways and thereby switching the lead with 0. In GB the wiring in a house is standardized in order to avoid these problems. The best way is to read the installation careful and if they say 0 in one wire and lead in the other you better make a fix installation.

PS! I am not an electrician but am very careful with electricity. DS!

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Posted

I don´t know what is going on the control box but from my point into view it is an electronic device like any other else. And I think the manufacturer is aware of the "electrical situation" in different countries and that his product will be shipped worldwide. So far I have no problems - no smoke if coming of the box or the like. I guess the control box knows how to deal with alternating current.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

Usual guide to wiring mono phase ( 3 wires with ..1 phase wire, 1 neutral wire , 1 earth wire ) wire colours..

Hot colours ( like red or brown ) are the live / phase wire..

Cold colours ( like blue or black ) is the neutral wire..

Whatever colour is "left over" after the above two..is the earth wire..

Usually the "left over wire" is Green or Green and Yellow..

Make sure that whatever "line" the device is connected to has a circuit breaker ( not a fuse ) fitted..

Tri-phase wiring is different..uses different colour combos..and tri-phase electricity is more dangerous than mono phase..

If you have more than 3 wires, then you are probably looking at tri-phase, and getting tri-phase wiring wrong can bite you..so unless you know what you are doing..don't touch the wires..( playing with tri-phase can kill you easily )..call for an electrician..

If you have an old style clutch machine that was wired for tri-phase and has been converted to run on mono ( either via a frequency generator ) or using a capacitor to make an "artificial phase", again , unless you know what you are doing, for any electrical repairs, call an electrician..

Never work on anything that is plugged into the supply ..even if it is switched off..some people put the switches on the neutral ( even professional electricians seem to do this a lot in France, on machines and light switches, everything!! )..which means that the device still has power after the switch..power which can / will bite / maybe kill you..

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

Posted

Wire colours vary in different countries. In North America, white is neutral, green (or bare copper) is safety ground, and for single phase systems, black is hot, so is red in 110-0-110 (220 volt). 3 phase typical, red, black, and blue are hot.

I've seen cord sets here that are blue and brown for power leads, green with yellow stripe for safety ground. Not sure which one is hot. Have to check each time to determine which is which!

So it is best for all equipment that you check with someone knowledgeable in your area. Be safe, not sorry.

And yes, there are many mistakes made in wiring systems by people that don't know the standards. So check that a circuit is really dead before you touch bare wires. I've seen an electrician get his arm badly burned by a flash over with 3 phase 600 VAC. He didn't check that the load centre power was still off from the previous day. Tripped a 2000 A supply.

Tom

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Posted

Thanks for the answer. The information given by college sewing is very succint and very disappointing. They don't sell any 13mm shaft pulleys and I have seen none for sewing machines so far anywhere else so I think it is not standard ?

They don't tell the size of the pulley neither but from what you say it must be 75mm. I would like to have a smaller one .Does anyone know where to find one?

Are you sure of the size (maybe it is not metric, it could be 1/2") ,does it have a key or a screw ?

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Posted (edited)

I know - that also bothered me a bit that they have no other pulleys. I now have custom made 40mm pulleys on my two Jack motors but the guy who made them is out of country for a while so I have no access to more atm. I also wanted to order speed reducer pulleys but seems I have to shift it to the next year or find someone else who can make some.

Shaft is 13mm, pulley needs grove for the key and it is secured with a nut.

That how it goes in the sewing machine business - you do not always get what you want / need so you have to find other solutions.

This is nothing that should drive you crazy.

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Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Can you not just take the pulley you have in to place where they sell bearings belts sprockets and all that kind of thing and get a pulley in the size you want with the hole the size you need? Here in Canada it would be easy. Looking at the picture it looks almost exactly like the pulley on a Bosch or delco alternator. Maybe you could find one at a machinery dealer.

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