How To Slow It Down...

[jerry895]

I have a Consew 227R-2 installed a servo motor but I wanted it real slow. Added another shaft and pulleys to slow it way down. I made a bobbin winder because the machine is so slow.

[gottaknow]

We still use plenty of clutch motors in the factory. If you sew 40 hours a week on one, you get really good at speed control. The clutches are meant to slip and will still last a long time. I use a special clutch grease, it doesn't take much and prolongs the life of the clutch. Most of our overlock machines have at least 3.5" - 4" pulleys on them. For leather work, I'd still prefer a servo motor. For garment sewing, it makes little difference.

Regards, Eric

[Wyowally]

Eric,

Would you share what the special grease is, or where to get it? I've seen references from everything like Vaseline to white lithium, and some saying "No, no, it will wreck the facings" to "No problem, white lithium makes it a smoother transition".

Wyowally

[CowboyBob]

I've always just used wheel bearing grease or Vaseline on the clutch pad(about a teaspoon)just smear it around.As a quick fix machine oil on the pad will work.They grab because they dry out so any lube helps it to slip & doesn't hurt it at all.

[oltoot]

The best final solution would be a servo but, in the meantime, most clutch

motor setups have a travel adjustment screw on the clutch arm that your pedal is hooked to. If yours has the screw adjust there to keep the arm from

going all the way. Long term this is like slipping the clutch within definite limits but should tide you over while you look the servo crop over

[gottaknow]

Union Special used to sell a white grease for their Amco clutch motors. It's honestly just white lithium grease. I use just a touch and rub it well into the cork, then wipe off the excess with a rag. Makes the clutch action very smooth assuming everything else is adjusted good. The older cork from the Amco motor and the very dense original Singer motors lasts a long time, even without grease. The imported cork is very spongy and using grease is a must.

Regards, Eric

[Bertil]

I have a 167 with 1/2 hp old Italian clutch motor. To find a pulley that fitted on the "star" shaped axis turned out to be impossible here in Madrid. Too old! Ok have to live with the pulley 90mm. I needed something quick and dirty. Prolonged the arm on the motor with a scrap metal v-iron bar. Thereby the length that your foot has to press down, for a given angel change of the arm, will be longer. I will move the pull down all the way out to the left but need to drill a hole in the foot pedal first. I just haven´t had the time yet. Anyway result is that I have much better control but still I will change to a servo.

Edited November 1, 2014 by Bertil

[Wyowally]

I tried something I didn't see talked about here. The grease sort of worked, but even with trying to align and adjust things perfectly, I was still getting an objectionable gronking and groaning sound when trying to start smoothly and go slow. Not knowing the wisdom of it, I went ahead and took a 150 grit sanding disc and slipped it between the clutch face and the flywheel surface then eased them together just enough to feel the drag from the disc. Flipped it 180 degrees and did the other surface as well. All I can tell you is the noise is gone and it all works better. I've got the pedal at an angle that works for me and the clutch brake engages the way I want when I back off.

Wyowally

Edited December 5, 2014 by Wyowally

[kwalk20]

On ‎7‎/‎13‎/‎2014 at 10:14 AM, SARK9 said:

Some speed reducer observations and the reinvention of the wheel-

I've installed servos + speed reducers on 5 flatbed machines (3 Juki LU-563's, a Singer 251-21 and a Consew 205RB5)-- mostly to sew multiple layers of heavy webbing and ballistic nylon.

Although I've not tried every single brand and style of the inexpensive "servo" motors, many of them do seem a bit more predictable and controllable when used in conjunction with a speed reducer/torque multiplier, which lets the motor begin rotating somewhat faster before becoming loaded, notwithstanding miraculous advertising copy to the contrary. My servo motors produce 5000RPM, which I almost never need. YMMV.

Anyway, when using one of the types I'm familiar with, I find its desirable to use the smallest motor pulley available....for reasons of physical clearance (as you will see later*) as well as gaining the max reduction for your $$.

*The smaller the pulley, the further "back" towards the motor the reducer pulley can be located.

Notice the relationship between the large reducer pulley and the 50mm motor pulley...its close!

Some homemade 50mm pulleys awaitng the 5mm broach shown with a 90mm for comparison.

In order to preserve the easy of tilting your machine back for service, I have found it convenient to use an accessory mounting plate adaptor to relocate the position of my servo motors. This plate moves the motor attachment back to the rear table edge and offsets the mounting position towards the right about 0.700 inch.

This lets you mount your reducer far enough back that the new geometry allows your machine to hinge back normally and unload the long drive belt as originally designed, and helps compensate for the additional width of the reducer pulley set and its alignment with the table slot. This usually eliminates the need to lengthen or extend the table slot to prevent the belt from rubbing as well.

Here's a quick sketch of one mounting plate solution to help restore the convenient maintenance of your machine's underside when using certain reducers-

In a nutshell, there are three holes in the plate for using your table's original motor mount carriage bolts to attach it, then a couple of sets of threaded holes used to bolt on your servo in a favourable offset location. It looks very sanitary and seems to work perfectly for my stuff. [Note- I eliminated 3 of the mount holes on the drawing but didn't change the text about 6 holes. D'oh!]

-DC

I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping somebody can help me. I'm wanting to put a speed reducer on my flatbed (Seiko sth-8bld3) and still be able to move the head back when needed. I knew it could be done, but not so sure of all the technicalities involved. Does anyone know where I can find this accessory mounting plate adaptor? And how best to go about this?

Sark9 if you're reading this I would really appreciate your input since you've already done this, and anyone else. Thanks to all!

[CowboyBob]

We have a box-style reducer that we sell that mounts in between the table & motor & allows you to tilt the head back.