How To Slow It Down...

[kwalk20]

Thanks Bob, but right now cost is a factor. So I will have to go the cheapest route. I watched a video Arthur Porter did and it did the trick, but I just need to understand how to install it in order to still allow the head to go back. I got my stitch fixed pretty good...somewhat. My husband discovered that the bar that holds the needle was crooked and my harness foot was really bent out of whack. It came that way because on the piece of leather they used to test the machine the backstitches were not in the same holes, they veered off to the left the same way as I was trying tell you about. I don't know how that was missed before shipping, but with some fixes thanks to the hubby, and some adjustments to the tension we got it going.

[SARK9]

Hi Kwalk- Your Seiko is a very nice machine. A couple of things you might mention: What is the max thickness of the material you need to sew? Large needle/thread or? Is it mostly going to be detailed, fussy stitching in short sections, or more wide open? What motor and pulley size is on your machine now?

The most economical approach is to mod what you have, if possible. Some servo models may meet your needs without the reducer at all, depending on your situation. If you are currently using a lower RPM (1725+/-) clutch motor, this forum has several practised adherents of that school, and they may be able to get you doing the fabled stitch-at-a-time by tuning your current hardware, replacing the pulley, and tricking out the cork pads of the clutch discs. Larger handwheel pulleys can also change the ratio for the better.

The offset mounting plate in my post is more geared to DIY types as a means of slicking up the alignment of a reducer and the servo while utilizing the predrilled holes already in the table.  Basically, it just moves the servo's position towards the back of the table so that the centerline of the reducer's shaft is able to be located a bit past the pivot point of the machine head's hinge pins, thus allowing normal tilt of the head. You also gain some extra clearance between the larger reducer pulley and the motor pulley-needed more as the diameter goes up on the reducer's driven pulley. Essentially the plate can be made of anything strong enough to hold the servo under load- I like aluminium plate since I can get that easily.

 

-DC

[kwalk20]

Hi Sark9,

Thank you for responding. I have a family servo 550s. I make leather bags so the thickness varies. The max is the top of what the machine will handle which is about 3/8 in., but sometimes I push it on the seams. I use mainly 138 top and 69-138 in the bobbin. I sew a bit of both detailed, fussy and long stretch.

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2 hours ago, SARK9 said:

The offset mounting plate in my post is more geared to DIY types as a means of slicking up the alignment of a reducer and the servo while utilizing the predrilled holes already in the table.  Basically, it just moves the servo's position towards the back of the table so that the centerline of the reducer's shaft is able to be located a bit past the pivot point of the machine head's hinge pins, thus allowing normal tilt of the head. You also gain some extra clearance between the larger reducer pulley and the motor pulley-needed more as the diameter goes up on the reducer's driven pulley. Essentially the plate can be made of anything strong enough to hold the servo under load- I like aluminium plate since I can get that easily

I guess this is what I'm trying to do. I want to be able to have it positioned where I can still tilt the head back without having to remove the belts every time and I know I'll need to reposition things under there, but not sure how or what I need to be concerned with to make it right. I went ahead and put a reducer on order. It's this one: And I'm trying to figure out how best to mount it and get the beloved stitch at a time.Thank you for any help you can give me!

 

[CowboyBob]

11 hours ago, kwalk20 said:

Thanks Bob, but right now cost is a factor. So I will have to go the cheapest route. I watched a video Arthur Porter did and it did the trick, but I just need to understand how to install it in order to still allow the head to go back. I got my stitch fixed pretty good...somewhat. My husband discovered that the bar that holds the needle was crooked and my harness foot was really bent out of whack. It came that way because on the piece of leather they used to test the machine the backstitches were not in the same holes, they veered off to the left the same way as I was trying tell you about. I don't know how that was missed before shipping, but with some fixes thanks to the hubby, and some adjustments to the tension we got it going.

I can understand everyone wants to save $$ & I don't blame you for that.But the box style reducer sells for $185.00+ shpg & then all you do is bolt it on, measure for belts & you are done,no making & lining up of plates(or redrilling holes in the table top) & trying to make it work & with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall.

[SARK9]

>>& with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall. <<

Not so much with the ones I posted. The plate *may* stick out past the rear edge of a "factory" drilled table about 3/8ths of an inch; That is dimensioned to accommodate the largest reducer pulley I make (9"+), and its just to give the outboard foot plate of the servo motor more stability while its bolts are tightened. I've only done a dozen or so like this, however.  Its one possible solution to the "no tilt" problem that arises when using these stand-alone reducers, and for that *one* aspect of the conversion, its a bolt-on-and-done as well.  Its still geared for the DIY crowd, and as they say, some assembly required. Photos available on request.

 

-DC

 

[CowboyBob]

1 hour ago, SARK9 said:

>>& with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall. <<

Not so much with the ones I posted. The plate *may* stick out past the rear edge of a "factory" drilled table about 3/8ths of an inch; That is dimensioned to accommodate the largest reducer pulley I make (9"+), and its just to give the outboard foot plate of the servo motor more stability while its bolts are tightened. I've only done a dozen or so like this, however.  Its one possible solution to the "no tilt" problem that arises when using these stand-alone reducers, and for that *one* aspect of the conversion, its a bolt-on-and-done as well.  Its still geared for the DIY crowd, and as they say, some assembly required. Photos available on request.

 

-DC

 

The plate does look like a good idea BUT I was talking about the motor sticking out past the edge of the table since it has to be moved back.

[SARK9]

The motors I have been using don't protrude past the rear edge of the table at all, once you get the correct belt length worked out. I have 3 walking foot machines with these mount  plates installed that are all set within an inch of the wall, not because they won't go any closer, but because I frequently work on longish straight runs and I need the material to be able to go *somewhere* besides INTO the wall.

-DC

 

Edited May 26, 2016 by SARK9
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[Sonydaze]

Regardless of what kind of motor, I get better control by using both feet on the peddle. Using both feet is something I read in an old Juki manual. I was accustomed to using only one foot but after I got used to using both feet. I found that I had much better control.  ymmv.

[gottaknow]

6 hours ago, SARK9 said:

The motors I have been using don't protrude past the rear edge of the table at all, once you get the correct belt length worked out. I have 3 walking foot machines with these mount  plates installed that are all set within an inch of the wall, not because they won't go any closer, but because I frequently work on longish straight runs and I need the material to be able to go *somewhere* besides INTO the wall.

-DC

 

That is a nice looking 563!

Regards, Eric 

[kwalk20]

15 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

I can understand everyone wants to save $$ & I don't blame you for that.But the box style reducer sells for $185.00+ shpg & then all you do is bolt it on, measure for belts & you are done,no making & lining up of plates(or redrilling holes in the table top) & trying to make it work & with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall.

I guess I wasn't or didn't even know to think about this aspect of it. All I was thinking about was the more cost effective route for me after seeing others do it. Thanks again.

 

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11 hours ago, SARK9 said:

Not so much with the ones I posted. The plate *may* stick out past the rear edge of a "factory" drilled table about 3/8ths of an inch; That is dimensioned to accommodate the largest reducer pulley I make (9"+), and its just to give the outboard foot plate of the servo motor more stability while its bolts are tightened. I've only done a dozen or so like this, however.  Its one possible solution to the "no tilt" problem that arises when using these stand-alone reducers, and for that *one* aspect of the conversion, its a bolt-on-and-done as well.  Its still geared for the DIY crowd, and as they say, some assembly required. Photos available on request.

I would really love to see those pictures being that my reducer is already on its way. Thanks a bunches!

 

Quote

3 hours ago, Sonydaze said:

Regardless of what kind of motor, I get better control by using both feet on the peddle. Using both feet is something I read in an old Juki manual. I was accustomed to using only one foot but after I got used to using both feet. I found that I had much better control.  ymmv.

I've never heard of  doing this. I'm going to try it and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the tip!